Weight of Rolling Stock


Greg@mnrr

Greg@mnrr

Section Hand
Scale rolling stock's recommended weight is set by NMRA Guidelines. I know I purchased a postal scale to determine the weight of my rolling stock, but in 10+ years the scale hasn't left its carton and remains unused.

Do you pay any attention to the weight of your rolling stock?

Thanks.

Greg
 
Greg - I weigh all new cars as part of an inspection process before they go on the layout. I am happy with +/- 10% of the NMRA recommendation. I found over the years that they run more reliably when they meet this weight. Almost all RTR cars that I have purchased in the last 15 years are weighted per the recommendation. I use Walther's Goo to add pennies to any enclosed kits that don't meet the recommended weight, I have many, many Accurail, P2K, Athearn and Roundhouse kits on the layout, and many more on the shelf awaiting construction. My pre-layout inspection (and documentation) includes adding metal wheels, Kadee or compatible non-plastic couplers, weight, coupler height check, a shot of Dull Coat and finally taking a picture so I can add it and all of the other information (description, road name & number, cost, etc.) to my database that's part of my switching/inventory program.
I have read on MRH's forum, that some members over there actually like to "overweight" their equipment for better performance. I suspect that in some cases it is to make up for track deficiencies. I am wary of this practice due to wear and tear of the axle ends in the truck bearings (is that the correct terminology?). It may also prematurely wear the plating off plated wheels on heavily used equipment.
Just my 2¢ worth.

Willie
 
I’ve been slowly upgrading my rolling stock with metal wheels. I use this as an opportunity to weigh the car and add weight if underweight.

Steve


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Almost all of my freight cars are weighted to the NMRA standards. I do have a couple of gondolas with no weight in them that I used to test new track before it is ballasted. If anything is going to have derailment problems, these cars would.

IMAG0269.jpg

Some car such as tankers canbe tricky to put weight into. I have been using self adhesive weights for cars like this.
 
Greg@mnrr said:
Do you pay any attention to the weight of your rolling stock?
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Absolutely. After wheel gauge and coupler height, weight is the most important thing to reliable operation. Fortunately these days manufacturers are getting closer and closer to the standard out of the box.
 
Mainly when I have kit that didn't come with any weights like Intermountain kits from the early days have no weights.
 
I have seldom altered the weighting of my cars. I did strip out the electronic lighting package and the floor weights from my Walthers heavyweight passenger cars as I had 3% grades on my second layout and needed them lighter. I had broad curves, so I wasn't worried about string-lining.

When I first received my all-metal HO Lionel Challenger years ago, I had done some on-line research about the engine and knew already of some potential problems. On the advice of one user, I opened the tender, removed the cube of weight placed at one end (about twice the dimensions of a regular sugar cube), and gently placed cotton batting around the speakers, filling the space under the shell. He felt it improved the sound, and I didn't know the difference after I replaced the shell...it sounds good. Or, still sounds good after the batting. I followed his advice because the shell, frame, and all those centipede axles made for a truly heavy tender already. To this day the locomotive, a fine one if short on the details one would expect these days on a premium sound steamer, pulls around my layout like a Swiss watch. I'm very happy with this locomotive, and do not regret my minor modifications.

I found, in an earlier forgettable experiment, that no amount of added weight would help a couple of sprung skeleton cars meant to carry logs around my track system. So, while I have a history of actually lightening car weights, I have a very short one with sprung trucks.

There is something to gain by doing what the prototype does...compile a consist with empties nearer the back of the consist where the pull on their couplers at either end will be the least. If you place lighter cars (empties and flat cars) close to the tractive power, you have the locomotive's effort on one end and all the drag weight down hill on the other. This is true even on nearly level tracks as there is inertia and friction in the rolling wheel sets.
 
Yes, similar to the others, among other checks, I always check the weight with a digital scale and follow the NMRA's recommendations.
 
For the most part, I haven't paid too much attention to weights. I looked at it briefly and here's what I've found. Your results may vary.

Those that are pre-weighted may not be up to NMRA standards, but for the most part seem to do well.

Those that have no weights in them generally don't perform very well. I built up some F&C flat cars and am having a heck of a time with them. I've tried fishing weights and they generally stick too far down and into the path of the wheels. I'll have to try the pennies mentioned before.
 
I generally need to put loads on flat cars, so I can conceal the weights. This does mean that empty flat cars don't exist on my layout.
 
Sherrel - For HO it's 1 oz + (1/2 oz per inch of car). Therefore a 50' (7") car should weigh (1 oz + 3 1/2 oz (7" x 1/2)), or 4 1/2 ozs.

Willie
 
Thanks, Guys ... working in O Scale I had forgot, but seemed to remember about 4 oz per car in HO.
 
Selector said:
I have seldom altered the weighting of my cars. I did strip out the electronic lighting package and the floor weights from my Walthers heavyweight passenger cars as I had 3% grades on my second layout and needed them lighter. I had broad curves, so I wasn't worried about string-lining.
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I've talked with a number of modelers that like to run long trains. They all suggest weighing their rolling stock a little bit heavier than the NMRA std, as it helps prevent the cars from derailing when in long trains, or on tighter curves.

I've also seen (and own) a few flat cars where the original owner glued 'shotgun loading' into the voided framing on the underside of the car (fit rather well).
 
I went the other way and removed as much weight as possible. I used JayBee wheelsets on my hopper fleet. My coal loads were vacuuform sheets with a thin layer of coal glued to the top. That way I can pull 50 hoppers up a 4% grade with one Powerhouse 2-8-8-2. I made sure all my cars would roll freely before they went into a consist. I can take my Sunset 4-8-0 up the grade with 12-14 cars without slipping..
 
Y3a said:
I went the other way and removed as much weight as possible. I used JayBee wheelsets on my hopper fleet. My coal loads were vacuuform sheets with a thin layer of coal glued to the top. That way I can pull 50 hoppers up a 4% grade with one Powerhouse 2-8-8-2. I made sure all my cars would roll freely before they went into a consist. I can take my Sunset 4-8-0 up the grade with 12-14 cars without slipping..
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Care to talk more about that Powerhouse 2-8-8-2 engine,...or have you done so in other subject threads?
I just discovered I have one in my inventory. I thought I had sold it?
Likely more hefty version than the Proto 2K models, thus more traction.

Mine is decal ed for B&O, and has a vandy tender by Rivarossi.
 
Today, I plan on weighing one of my ore cars. These short critters are weathered, have KD couplers, metal wheels and Chooch ore loads covered with Woodland Scenics ore for more realism. I know the weight of the cars far exceeds NMRA recommendations. Most are Walthers cars of different vintages.

I ran a 40+ ore car train pulled by two Atlas U Boats over our former, large club module layout at a Chicago and Northwestern Society meeting and the train ran for hours without a derailment. Ore cars can find the most minor imperfections in track and derail. I believe the heavier cars avoided derailments.

Good metal wheels may offset the disadvantages of the added weight. My DCC w/sound ALCO locomotive pulls 13 ore cars up a 2.5% grade with ease.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Greg

New Ore Cars.jpg
 
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I have 24 of the older Roundhouse MDC Ore cars. They all have cast white metal undersides and are heavy. These where the only cars I never weighed because I knew they where heavy enough. I'm hauling Kitty Litter in 12 of mine painted with green speckles to represent Copper Ore. The other 12 are empties. Empties in--Loads out.
 
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