Tortoise Machine Installation...


Renegade1c said:
This make sure that the template lines up with the hole drilled in the subroadbed perfectly every time.
Click to expand...

What do you do to insure that Tortoise is mounted square to the turnout?

The dowel keeps the wire in the right place but the the jig obviously can rotate in any direction and still be in the hole.

Frederick
 
I do it visually. I know the orientation of the turnout above and can usually get it pretty close by peeking through the hole and cycling the points back and forth. It only has to be close.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 
The articles in September's issue, on the newsstands now, includes DCC operation of it/them as well.
 
If I could make a suggestion Tony,why don't you take a small piece of plywood,say 6"x12" ,to the workbench and do a few practice installs. Use a couple drops of white glue or something to lightly hold a turnout in place and figure out the process. It will help you understand what you're up against and will let you get a routine built up. The nice part would be not having to be under the layout while learning. Just flip your little piece of wood on it's side to figure out the underneath work.

I too built a jig like Renegade1c did but out of plate aluminum. When I get to a turnout location I don't permanently install it. I join it to the point end and line it up. Center the points and drill a 1/16" hole through the hole in the throwbar. Then remove the turnout and drill a 5/16" hole on the throwbar location. I put my jig in the hole and line it up straight with the roadbed and run a 1/16" bit down through roadbed and sub roadbed. My mounting and hookup style is the same as his and couldn't be easier.
Practice practice practice
 

Attachments

  • DSCF0573.JPG
    DSCF0573.JPG
    723.8 KB · Views: 197
I was thinking of making a jig that mounts on top of the roadbed.
If you drill your center hole and mark your ties you could drill two holes down and drop pins to line up a jig from the bottom.
That would ensure that you're square with the rails and ties and not off kilter.
 
Rick I just re-read your post and yup it's just what I had in mind!
Where's my coffee......
 
It really takes the guesswork out and makes it a no brainer. I whipped it up before I even installed the first one on the layout after reading so many guys were fighting them. Piece O cake.
 
Rick,

You read my mind, I was contemplating doing a "trial run" before I did the real thing. Also agree that when you do something often enough, it does become routine so think I will do as suggested.

Mounting these things is one thing, wiring them is another. I have looked at a number of pictures of their wiring (all of which seem to include multiple machines, extra bits of electronics, lights and other stuff that just confuses me. I have not been able to locate a single diagram that shows the simplest most basic wiring of these things.

I am assuming that the tortoise gets its power from the track power/main Bus with one wire attached to it at either end terminal. If that is the case, then all I should need to do is run two more wires, from the tortoise, to my toggle switch so it will work. Is that about it?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Tortoise machines run on straight dc power so I use a separate power supply and I have a buss just for them around the layout. Depending on how many you are using,you may be able to get by with a wall wart type of supply. The machines draw so little power that nothing special is needed. Just give them a good 12 volts and all is well. If I wasn't computer illiterate I could draw you a quick wiring diagram,but it really is simple.
 
Rick,

After I posted what I did I more or less thought a separate DC power source would be needed. I am going to need 34 of them if I attach one to all of my turnouts so, in hindsight, I thought I might be able to use a DC power source wired to a Terminal Block/s and do it that way. Have to admit, I'd prefer NOT to having anything but the track powered by the DCC.

No problem with the diagram, I'm sure someone will give me one :)
 
Evening all,

I have in touch with the DCC Concept people and it seems as though, despite being more expensive, they have a bigger choice of Switch Machine including their "top of the line" machine that is DCC configured.

In simple terms, their IP Cobalt Digital uses track power for it's power source, can be switched to be used either manually (via a toggle switch) or through the controller, the switch is apart of the machine. The two big pluses for me though are it comes pre-centered, so there isn't any issue with getting the correct tension on the draw bar, and all of the terminals on the machine are spring loaded push in type so no soldering. Additionally, the machine comes with terminals for connecting LED's.

I don't know, but they sound pretty good to me.
 
wombat457 said:
Evening all,

I have in touch with the DCC Concept people and it seems as though, despite being more expensive, they have a bigger choice of Switch Machine including their "top of the line" machine that is DCC configured.

In simple terms, their IP Cobalt Digital uses track power for it's power source, can be switched to be used either manually (via a toggle switch) or through the controller, the switch is apart of the machine. The two big pluses for me though are it comes pre-centered, so there isn't any issue with getting the correct tension on the draw bar, and all of the terminals on the machine are spring loaded push in type so no soldering. Additionally, the machine comes with terminals for connecting LED's.

I don't know, but they sound pretty good to me.
Click to expand...

They did sound good to me too - but they were not reliable. More then 20% failed.

That was a while ago and perhaps they have sorted things out.

I would proceed cautiously. I am not the only person who had problems with the original units.

Perhaps you can find someone who is using the newer units and see how things are working out at this point in time.

Also being pre-centered is not really a "feature". Before you install one you should test it to be sure it is working. Then you can return it to center before installation.

The connections of the Tortoise are it's worst feature. Often the edge connector that is sold for them is not the right size.

RR-CirKits makes a unit that solves this problem but it adds to the cost.

Frederick
 
Regarding Servos

wombat457 said:
So, one other question if I may. People seem to gravitate to TM's as they appear to be the most popular or better known machines; but, is there something better or as good? What options are you guys aware that do the job?

... Does anyone have experience with them or other types of switch machines/mechanisms?
Click to expand...
I use servos on my layout, and I love them. Mine are controlled by Tam Valley Depot Quad boards.

Among the advantages I have observed:
  • Small size. I use servos measuring 1"x1"x½". They will fit in places that Tortoises fear to go.
  • Flexible installation. Servos do not require extremely precise positioning; close is good enough.
  • Easy mounting. Hot glue is sufficient. I added a styrene strap for even more security (see below).
  • Work with thick scenery. Servos easily operate a turnout through at least 6 inches of baseboard, sub-roadbed, and terrain.
  • Easy hook-up with no soldering. Everything connects with standard servo cables available at any R/C model airplane (or car) shop.
  • Cost. On a per-turnout basis, a servo-based system with DCC control, fascia (pushbutton) controllers, and frog polarity switching costs a bit less than a Tortoise-based system with the same features.
Yes, I am prejudiced! I decided to go with servos, and they have worked beautifully for me. Your mileage may vary.

- Jeff

In the photos below, the brass tubing is 1/16" with an inside diameter of 0.035". The music wire is 0.032" diameter.

turnout_linkage1.jpg


underside_servo_strap1a.jpg
 
Thanks for the replies guys and your insight into both methods. Your experience with the DCC Concepts machines is much appreciated Frederick, the last thing I want to do is spend X amount of dollars just to have 20% of that (or any %) go down the drain as a result of a failed unit.

Jeff I do have a number of servo's so they might be an option, especially if their placement doesn't have to be as accurate as "normal" devices. It would be nice if they could be installed a little more subtly though.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.



Back
Top