Layout for son and dad

[Rabman]

Mike is correct that foam sands well. 1/8" deflection when weight is applied probably won't be an issue, as trains weigh a whole lot less than your pushing. Eventually, depending on your layout room conditions, the wood could sag on its own. Note that I recommended that you start with 6 legs in post # 50; it looks like you do have a place to anchor them if you do add them. Cheap insurance.

I recall you recommended 6 legs. I wanted to try to minimize the toe stubbers to a minimum. I may beef up the longitudinal joists prior to adding more legs. The issue I have adding more legs is the floors in the basement are not very flat. The more legs there are, I may introduce wobbling of the table. I am intending on putting levelers on the legs, but don't want to have to readjust 6 every time I move the table.

I am sure that will address the deflection, but wanted to minimize the weight if possible during construction. I did add cross supports above the leg when I built it to accommodate longitudinal joists if required.

 

[goscrewyourselves]

The issue I have adding more legs is the floors in the basement are not very flat.

That being the case, use "levelers" on the bottom of your legs, similar to what is used on refrigerators to level them. In a nutshell, the screw into the bottom of the leg and then you can screw the "base" up or down to achieve a level. If you chose to do that, you might want to put a small square of carpet, or similar, under them as well.

 

[Rabman]

Thanks. I did buy some but I think I need heavier duty ones.

 

[Rabman]

Well the foam is all glued down...hopefully well enough. I certainly would not recommend using the stuff I did. Stay away from Lepage No More Nails...the stuff did not flow as well as regular caulking or any other tubed adhesive I have used before. Be warned. Hopefully it adheres well enough.

 

[goscrewyourselves]

I know this is too late but all I ever used to glue foam to ply is Elmers White glue then weighted the foam over night. When the time came to rip out the old bench work, I had such a hell of a time getting the foam off with the intention of using the ply again, I ended up leaving it and throwing the lot out.

Not sure if this has been mentioned or not but when you put your roadbed down, run a line of caulk along the center line then place the half piece of road bed on it and "slide it around" and into position. That way you are guaranteed of getting the adhesive ALL OVER the bottom of the roadbed and it will stick 100% and will have a nice layer of adhesive for the other half to sit on. You'll also end up with adhesive along the middle edge of the road which will help hold the second half in place.

 

[flyboy2610]

For gluing foam to foam the best stuff I have found is Glidden Gripper primer paint. Your local home center or hardware store should have it. I discovered it through watching this YouTube video:

 

[Rabman]

Thanks guys

 

[Rabman]

So after a short vacation and some track layout redesign I started to lay out the track centrelines on the benchwork. Seems to be going well so far. I haven’t done the big curves a thing the ends as I am waiting for a soldering iron I bought to arrive. Then I can sold r the flex track before I bend them to prevent any kinks. I am also getting some plaster cloth and wire for the power feeds. I intend to solder the feeds to the bottom of the rails. I also bought some woodlands scenic 2% starter strips and risers for the two loops that go over the rivers. Once I get reassured the track layout is workable, I will install the risers, put plaster cloth over them, install the.cork trackbed, then install the tracks. It will take me a while to do all of that.

 

[Iron Horseman]

I haven’t done the big curves a thing the ends as I am waiting for a soldering iron I bought to arrive. Then I can sold r the flex track before I bend them to prevent any kinks.

That can make a very large section of track with no ties. In that case, you need to make certain you don't get the opposite of kinks - gauge narrows. To prevent kinking, I slide the longer piece of rail into the next piece of flex track so the joiners are not directly across from each other but staggered. Plus, that way I only loose the connection from tie to rail on only two ties (where the joiner has to go) for each rail and they maintain the gauge as so:

 

[Rabman]

That can make a very large section of track with no ties. In that case, you need to make certain you don't get the opposite of kinks - gauge narrows. To prevent kinking, I slide the longer piece of rail into the next piece of flex track so the joiners are not directly across from each other but staggered. Plus, that way I only loose the connection from tie to rail on only two ties (where the joiner has to go) for each rail and they maintain the gauge as so:

Is an overlap of 3-4 ties enough on the rail to prevent narrow gauge? Thanks for the tip.

 

[Iron Horseman]

Is an overlap of 3-4 ties enough on the rail to prevent narrow gauge? Thanks for the tip.

In this case there are really only 2 complete ties. I like more, but sometimes one just deals with the hand dealt by the natural lengthening of the inner rail. If one is starting with straight ends (like a turnout) the first joint there is usually just little overlap, 2nd joint more, third gets nice. Of course, one could artificially shorten the outside rail to begin with to make that first joint out have a greater overlap.

 

[Rabman]

In this case there are really only 2 complete ties. I like more, but sometimes one just deals with the hand dealt by the natural lengthening of the inner rail. If one is starting with straight ends (like a turnout) the first joint there is usually just little overlap, 2nd joint more, third gets nice. Of course, one could artificially shorten the outside rail to begin with to make that first joint out have a greater overlap.

Thanks. I have Peco flex track and the rail doesn’t seem to slide much in the ties. Is there a particular method for pulling the rail in the ties? To get extra overlap.

 

[Rabman]

So I made some more progress today. I got some risers installed and cork roadbed. Also laid out the reverse loop.

If anyone has suggestions, let me know.

 

[Rabman]

One of my next steps will be to put plaster cloth over the risers. Does anyone have any suggestions? The starter risers are quite small at the thin edge. Should I reserve the cloth for further up the riser and just put joint compound near the thin edge?

 

[Iron Horseman]

Thanks. I have Peco flex track and the rail doesn’t seem to slide much in the ties. Is there a particular method for pulling the rail in the ties? To get extra overlap.

Not really, Peco is a little stiff compared to the Atlas shown but it can be worked in.

 

[tootnkumin]

Not really, Peco is a little stiff compared to the Atlas shown but it can be worked in.

If it's the original Peco (brown cadboard box) it is fairly stiff to move. The current version is in a white box and I believe both rails slide.

 

[Rabman]

So I have a bit of a question. See attached photos for locations.

On my reversing loop, I can install the insulated joints at location “A” or “B”. Location “B” would include the spur tracks and the 3-way switch which I don’t think is necessary. The other issue is the curves turnout starting at B, appears to have molded in rail joiner which I am concerned about removing and causing damage to the turnout.

Is there any downside putting the insulators at “A”? It also seems tougher to install them directly under turnout ties as they are close to the end of the rails. The longest train to go through the loop would probably be the length of the spur tracks.

Thoughts?

 

[Rabman]

Also, are there any electrical concerns wrt to double slip switch in the reversing loop? Any need for insulated joints around it?

 

[Rabman]

Here is the final layout I am building to. I may reorient some of the industrial spurs depending on the buildings I buy.

 

[KB02]

Also, are there any electrical concerns wrt to double slip switch in the reversing loop? Any need for insulated joints around it?

I may have missed this, but are you running DC or DCC? In either case, yes, you will want to isolate the reversal. I would recommend powering that section with an auto reverser if you are running DCC and block wiring if DC.