We now have pre-built buildings, pre-built freight cars, and so forth and so on. Why not pre-built AFFORDABLE narrow gauge locos? If companies can produce accurate reasonably priced standard gauge locos, why not narrow gauge? Why should I have to pay $400+ for a Blackstone brass/near brass loco...
Anyone happen to have one of these kits they've kitbashed? I am looking for the corrugated sections if I can find them. I think they'd make good parts for a coal mine.
Well gentlemen, it seems that love triumphs over all. I'm going to be getting married to a very wonderful woman and we're going to be moving to Sevierville, TN in the Smokies. Are there any model railroaders in the immediate area?
The immediate area would be:
Sevierville
Pigeon Forge...
For those who use cardboard strips to build their scenery, do you also use the cardboard to make your roads? If so, do you merely paint the cardboard, or do you put something else over it for texture? Pics if ya got 'em, please.
I'm being era-specific because of the great differences in both road striping and road width some 50+ years ago. So if you model the late 40s to late 50s, I'd like to see what you have, paved and unpaved.
I like cars lettered for Appalachian freelance RRs, but I'm having a tough time finding any for sale on E(vil)bay. What designator should I be using? I normally use the designator 'private RR' or 'private road'.
They are power routed, correct? I hate wiring, and my layout is small compared to some, so if use power routed turnouts for block control, am I making a mistake?
I've been battling with a decision as to whether to use a divider to gain more distance between the two locations. I can fit a mountain between the two locations, but it ends up being more of a ridge than a mountain, it goes up and right back down. That being said, I'm not a big fan of dividers...
Truck dumps are a great way to get carloads without modeling a huge facility. They're common enough to be everywhere, although I think they're most common in Appalachia. If'n you model 'em. let's see 'em.
I know it can be done. The question is, what is the BEST way. I model West Virginia, so mountains are not a problem to hide the transition, but I don't want a MONSTER grade which will look out of place either. I am figuring no more than 8-10" between shelves for hand room.
Let's see those everyday commonplace off the shelf kits that you've turned into something really great! Kitbashes or straight from the box and while you're at it, a little about how you made that kit into a great piece.
I love the 50's, so if you have a 1950's era layout, how about some photos? Transition era is a great time to model, late steam and early diesel come together.
The more I looked at the ties on my HOn3 Shinohara track at Rimersburg, the less happy I was with the way they blended in with the ties on the wooden coal transfer trestle. Finally I decided before I went any further that something HAD to be done. I rummaged through my considerable stock of...
Does anyone use OSB for their subroadbed instead of plywood? I personally prefer plywood, but I do have some OSB and I've been debating using it. I really don't like the look of OSB and I'm not sure of its strength.
Here are some photos of the hamlet of Rimer's Corner WV (as currently laid out) on the West Virginia Midland narrow gauge. Rimer's Corner is between Webster Springs and Skelt, but so small, it's not even noted on most maps.
1. The Sinclair station
2. The General Store and Post Office
3. The...