Layout for son and dad


This is what it’s all about. Dad/Son time togetherness.

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Hi Rabman. Sorry, just Had to say one more: ;;;;;;; If you plan to pull entire thing away from the wall (9' side), unless you have rollers/wheels under the legs, the vibration is likely going to cause havoc to everything unanchored; buildings, autos, foliage, signals, and will likely cause train cars to derail.. So, with all that very nice looking space you have, you could instead build a 2' deep x 8' (9') long per wing, 90 Deg. L shape shelf layout, each end with a bubble wide enough for 24" rad. loops. This way everything is accessible to you both, with your yard and industry spurs right there in front of you and rear-most track less than 2' away. (no more worry about your belly ! )..It can be nearly same track plan, unfolded, squeezed and bent 90 Deg. at the middle. The existing lumber you already have will likely be just as useful if you were to consider this (especially the ply). Legs can be angled from front edges to floor molding.. lots a' storage space under, same depth as above (which goes without saying) and leaves a larger remaining area..
I say all this merely to point out an alternative you might like, and certainly not to imply that what you have going will not work out...M
;;;;;;;;;;;; RRs & MRRs are the perfect places where this staid adage will still be true : "It's all good"..;;;;;;;;;;;;;
 
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Looks like its going to be on a hardwood floor. All he would need is some furniture gliders, and if careful it should pull, and push with very little effort, and vibration.

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Hi Rabman. Sorry, just Had to say one more: ;;;;;;; If you plan to pull entire thing away from the wall (9' side), unless you have rollers/wheels under the legs, the vibration is likely going to cause havoc to everything unanchored; buildings, autos, foliage, signals, and will likely cause train cars to derail.. So, with all that very nice looking space you have, you could instead build a 2' deep x 8' (9') long per wing, 90 Deg. L shape shelf layout, each end with a bubble wide enough for 24" rad. loops. This way everything is accessible to you both, with your yard and industry spurs right there in front of you and rear-most track less than 2' away. (no more worry about your belly ! )..It can be nearly same track plan, unfolded, squeezed and bent 90 Deg. at the middle. The existing lumber you already have will likely be just as useful if you were to consider this (especially the ply). Legs can be angled from front edges to floor molding.. lots a' storage space under, same depth as above (which goes without saying) and leaves a larger remaining area..
I say all this merely to point out an alternative you might like, and certainly not to imply that what you have going will not work out...M
;;;;;;;; RRs & MRRs are the perfect places where this staid adage will still be true : "It's all good". -[::----::-]-{{: ;,;;;;,;o;;-}>..........(2-6-6-2-T & 1 log car).
Thanks for the alternative. I think I am going to go with the layout I have designed. I was intending on putting sliders that were noted by Mike. Most likely I will leave it pulled out from the wall to get around at the outset.
 
Looks like its going to be on a hardwood floor. All he would need is some furniture gliders, and if careful it should pull, and push with very little effort, and vibration.
I put the slick ones for carpet on the "Louisville Railroad" layout and they worked great. It is easy to slide it around for cleaning and the like.
 
So I am have done a minor redesign of the trackwork with two options. I can add a curved turnout at the bottom to add a spot for storage of one railcar, or locomotive. Or a second option of adding the curved turnout and a double-slip switch to store a potential of 3 locomotives near the top of the layout. I have a spare curved turnout and double-slip switch, which is why I selected them. The one track is right at the edge of the layout but I will have some edge protection there.

What are your thoughts? I have highlighted the options in red.

As an aside, the xTrackCad software has ST-245 curved turnouts in the library, but the one I have is a ST-243. I have read that the 245 replaced the 243. Does anyone know if they are the same dimension wise?
Track Layout 20 - Options.jpg
 
What are your thoughts? I have highlighted the options in red.
The upper right - My thought is NO. There is not enough space for a switchback in that area. Basically all that track and all one would is space to put 3 locos. However, One would always have to move one or the others on the right to get to the one on the left, so really there is only 2 locos of storage there. If you really want to do something there just make a single track off of it. You would get the space for 2 locos without all the headaches of a double slip switch.
 
Thanks I.H., I thought about the items you mentioned. Some of constraints I was aware of.

What kind of headaches would the double-slip switch introduce?

I have all the components already, so it would be a shame not to use them.
 
So I have made some progress over the long weekend. I have the benchwork mostly complete. I have the foam cut and ready to glue down. One of the things I have noticed, many people have the writing on the foam on the top. I was wondering if there was any reason for them doing that. I did notice how I have it oriented, there is a little 3 inch wide bump lengthwise on the foam about an 1/8” high. I may reorient the foam to have the bump on the bottom. Might have issues with that as well though. Can you sand the foam?

Also redesigning the track plan to take out the double-slip switch from the top right. I may put it in the industry track on the right side. Still toying with the idea.

I have watched a number of videos on laying track.

I may need some help on where to install insulated joints in the coming weekend and some wiring advice once I finalize the track layout.

One concern I have is where I have the river and bridges crossing it. From the plywood to the bottom of the ties, I will have about 1-1/4” elevation difference. Is that enough? I think I will need a girder bridge or truss bridge. Any thoughts?

I also got evicted from the rec room for the layout. My wife didn’t like it. It is now in the basement bedroom. It will work out nicer.
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One other item. The middle of the benchwork does deflect about an 1/8” when I push Down on it with a fair amount of weight. Is that an issue? I can put center legs in if it is.
 
Foam sands exceptionally well. I would start with about 150 grit, and do your smoothing with more like 220 grit. 150 grit will take it down pretty fast. Another thing you can do with variations is use spackle, or drywall mud to smooth it as well, it sticks to foam well.

As for the sag, you could just run a couple of 2X4s long ways with your lower bracing and add 1X2s from the top to the support. this way you don't have more legs to worry about if you have to scoot it out to work on the back.
 
Mike is correct that foam sands well. 1/8" deflection when weight is applied probably won't be an issue, as trains weigh a whole lot less than your pushing. Eventually, depending on your layout room conditions, the wood could sag on its own. Note that I recommended that you start with 6 legs in post # 50; it looks like you do have a place to anchor them if you do add them. Cheap insurance.
 
Foam sands exceptionally well. I would start with about 150 grit, and do your smoothing with more like 220 grit. 150 grit will take it down pretty fast. Another thing you can do with variations is use spackle, or drywall mud to smooth it as well, it sticks to foam well.

As for the sag, you could just run a couple of 2X4s long ways with your lower bracing and add 1X2s from the top to the support. this way you don't have more legs to worry about if you have to scoot it out to work on the back.

Thanks for the info
 



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