kbkchooch
"retired" conductor
Thanks! Nice try, but still too much $$ AND they are sold out! LOL!
My LHS has these for 7.95 a pack of 12 (That's 2 bucks cheaper!)
Tell em Karl sent ya!
The Moose Caboose
Thanks! Nice try, but still too much $$ AND they are sold out! LOL!
When changing the wheels, what if any type of lubrication element or compound should I use and how and where exactly should said lube be applied? Graphite powder? Graphite stick? High grade nose oil? What is a 'best' solution from the experience out there?
My LHS has these for 7.95 a pack of 12 (That's 2 bucks cheaper!)
Tell em Karl sent ya!
The Moose Caboose
NG, stick with a dry lube, graphite, molybdenum or teflon based. Oil based lubes tend to collect dust over time, which converts to drag. Dry lubes wont.
Went with E's link and got 100 coming. It has motivated me to finalize the design for my car holder and actually contemplate building it.
I've heard to not use oils because over time it will get down on rails - just like in real life. And that makes sense.
I use a spot (about half the size of a pin head) of Lebelle's #106 white grease. I think it's a Teflon base but don't know without looking.
Same grease I use inside my engines on the gears. Same stuff I used back in my old days when I was rebuilding engines all the time.
In the last year of being back in the craft/hobby I've messed with 2 engines at level - just to quiet them down. A little #106 on the gears did the trick. The engines I got from Terry have never been in need of quieting. Them jokers are stealthy quiet. Even the cats don't hear them.
E.
E
Oil on rails is not necessarily a bad thing. I like using small amounts of ATF to clean tracks and stop flickering headlights. Some other folks like Wahl clipper oil for the same reason. In combination with all metal wheels, m u tracks stay clean!