What kind of coupler do you like?


No, I don't see a problem with that at all, just a matter of preference. I like the freedom to have 1/3 of the cars "free" and able to operate in normal "interchange" service, does that make sense? In other words, on my N&W/NS unit coal train, the cars won't represent a specific unit train all the time, only when they are operated in the early NS years, so at least some of them can be switched as single cars. If they had a dummy coupler on one end, it would prevent them from operating as a single. Of course, pairs would be an option, but they were often found alone in later years.

My BN coal train is equipped in the same way, but since it will only ever operate as a unit train, the Kadees are simply to facilitate breaking it into short cuts to put on the club layout (when I was a member of a club) and park in the yard.

And finally, this is based upon experience from years ago, I hate what my grandpa and I would refer to as transition cars. That is, cars with a Kadee on one end and a horn-hook on the other end. I had nothing but bad experiences before I converted everything to Kadees (which is probably more a product of horn-hooks than anything else). And it seemed something would always break on the transition car which prevented me from operating it. We'd usually just end up operating horn-hook only trains and Kadee only trains because there was always some kind of hassle, but the trouble was many cars appropriate for a given train and time period were a mix of each coupler type. We just lived with what worked since there were so many to convert.

So anyway, based on my own predjudices I avoid cars with one type of each coupler on each end. Your experience may well be better than mine. You'll know better about that than me!

P.S. I just figured that I save $20 in couplers alone on a typical 24 car train using my hybrid coupler method! Two trains equals one Athearn locomotive... not bad.
 
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#58s these days, though there are still a lot of #5s on stuff I converted prior to the 58s coming out. Have a few knuckle-spring McHenrys as well, though I plan to convert the tank cars to the Kadee shelf couplers. The McHenry underside shelf coupler may also be an option.

Kennedy
 
I'm seeing a lot of reference to the #58 coupler in this thread, what is the main attraction to this coupler? I find I need different types for locos because of the frame clearance and height to deal with. You can pretty much mount anything on freight cars, although you might end up with some odd looking rolling stock ;)
Cheers Willis
 
Thank's Jeff, I'll order a pkg. for a look see, if I like them, then I'll use #58's for all the freight cars. My fingers don't work as good as they used to, so ease of assembly will also be a factor.
Cheers Willis
 
Willis, the only difference is the coupler head size, so if you can assemble #5s, you've got it made. The packages with pink lettering indicate the early #58s with a distinct opening between the coupler knuckle and the coupler head on the spring side. This isn't really that distracting, but Kadee fixed it and current #58s come in a package with black lettering.
 
Thanks again RCH I'll ask Chuck to bring ones with black lettering on the pkg. if he has them. Doesn't seem that long ago, that I wasn't sure of how I was going to tackle the coupler project for the layout and now I have a plan, and with dummy couplers for the coal trains it's quite affordable.

Cheers Willis
 
When I picked up four packs yesterday at the LHS I told the owner about using Walthers dummy couplers in conjunction with Kadee #58s. He told me he used Walthers dummy couplers on his passenger trains as a means of eliminating slack and "saving" his diaphragms from destruction on curves, but that he used #5s at key locations in the train to easily break off head end cars. I don't do passenger stuff, but what he said makes sense.
 
Hi RCH, man your a fountain of info for me. My plans are to have a passenger train to the East and return to the West daily. The mainline min. radius is 30" so the dummy couplers should work ok on the passenger cars also. Seeing that the passenger service is a through train it wont have to be broken up in the local yard so only the head end car will need Kadee's.
Cheers Willis
 
People tell me that all the time, Willis. They use the word fountain often enough, but info? Nah, usually it's substituted with the word "b.s." ;)

Glad to help.
 
Well RCH, seems to me I get into the "S" part of it all the time, funny thing though, I learn something every time :D
 
Hi Folks, well thanks for the past advice and now I require some more advice. The dummy couplers finally arrived in the mail today, in fact just in time to make decisions on the final location of the Coal mine and the length of each coal drag.
All the coal cars (Quad Hoppers) have truck mounted couplers except 6 which now have Kadees body mounted on one end. The trains will be operating on 18"R at the mine and the power plant and will be PUSHED into their destined locations. Not totally decided as yet, but a train will be 8 to 10 hoppers ( New out of Box), which will have to be correctly weighted ect. If you have a spare moment to think about it, any suggestions will be appreciated I assure you

Now for the dummy coupler mounting my questions are:

1- Should I body mount the dummy couplers?
2- If body mount is the best method, how should they be attached to the car?
3- Should I make any use of the coupler box from the truck?

Thanks
Cheers Willis
 
Well, first of all I don't have a layout (or a loco for that matter) so I won't be much help to you Willis. Sorry.

I'm wondering what you guys think of McHenry couplers...they came with several of my models and I'm curious as to their functionality.

Secondly, what is the best price/place to buy Kadee's? Are bulk packs available/worthwhile? I don't really need the draft gear boxes (I don't think) just the couplers themselves.

Thanks in advance!!
 
HI Group: I joined up a while back and have been lurking in the background till now. Thought I'd give my 2 cents worth on this. I use Kadee #5s on about everything cept the Locos that have a rock pilot, for those I use the #36. I use the McHenrys that come with some of the freight cars till they break. The car is then bad ordered , and the coupler is replaced with a #5. Being on a slim to none budget I'll use what ever till it wears out , breaks or I can afford to replace it.
Mark
 
I guys nice to be back I use the Horn Hook types the ones that look like real RR couplers.

AmtrakFan
 
#5 or whatever it needs to be to be correct coupler height. I.E. underset, overset, long shank etc etc. There are some LBF cars and others that the kadee centering spring won't fit so i use McHenry's but only with metal knuckle springs, the plastic springs are dumb.

Be Wise Beware Be Safe
"Mountain Goat" Greg
 
sushob said:
Well, first of all I don't have a layout (or a loco for that matter) so I won't be much help to you Willis. Sorry.

I'm wondering what you guys think of McHenry couplers...they came with several of my models and I'm curious as to their functionality.

Secondly, what is the best price/place to buy Kadee's? Are bulk packs available/worthwhile? I don't really need the draft gear boxes (I don't think) just the couplers themselves.

Thanks in advance!!

McHenrys are OK, if you get the semi-scale ones or the ones with the spring knuckle. The ones with the plastic tab suck, and they eventually won't hold the knuckle closed.

If you're going with the Kadee #5s, I think you can still get them in the 20 packs (actually, it's 20 PAIRS), without boxes. Those are pretty inexpensive, should be around $20 discounted off retail. If you're doing the #58 scale ones, no bulk packs yet, but it's not because I haven't asked Kadee about it in the past!

I used to buy the regular packages all the time, and have about 200 sprues worth of boxes now.....

:D

Kennedy
 
After one incident of a run-away as the result of a set of McHenry Couplers, I have not used them since. I swear by the Kadee's and they are on all my rolling stock.

Willis, as far as the Dummy couplers. I really don't know how long the Shanks are so as too whether or not you can leave them in the Truck mounts, then on the body, may be more of an issue with clearance between the cars to make the 18" radius curves. I don't see any real need to Body mount them. Anything that is not going to be disconnected on a regular basis is an easy mark for Dummy Couplers. Cheaper too.
 
Thanks guys!

AmtrakFan said:
I use the Horn Hook types the ones that look like real RR couplers.

AmtrakFan
I may be mistaken, but aren't horn-hooks the extremely non-realistic couplers that are usually included with a model? Is there any difference between "horn-hooks" and "x2f" couplers?
 
Everything has Kadee 5's, except that I am in the process of slowly converting everthing to Kadee 58's. I have some long shank Kadee couplers on the front of a couple locos to clear the plows.

Bill
 



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