Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread


Four is still startup territory.

Maybe be less ambitious with early projects, and get yourself closer to satisfied with some basic grime, fading, lay that car aside as a progress marker, move on to some rustier jobs, and, down the road, you can work on the vandalism & defacement.
I agree it’s a learning curve, the more you try the more you learn
 
I know we had that discussion a couple of months ago, and you have migrated to distilled water since. One other possibility:

If you have one of those mini-faucets that got installed with the water softener, it probably runs through a demineralizing/deionizing filter that takes out the residual salts, and might give you a good controlled source.
Thanks. We do have a reverse osmosis system on the kitchen sink cold water line. I could try that.

But I believe we found the issue regarding a new house, new well, different water softener salt and the use of distilled water and have not seen the issues in a few weeks.
 
A couple in process and 1 complete

Walthers Center Beam car, in process needs end panel splatter and tagging plus a final clear coat
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Spine car set in process. It’s been inspected, cleaned and a shadow coat place on the deck. Weathering the deck is next
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Finally a finished car headed off to Venice, Ca. this afternoon
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Have a great day
 
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2 Cement Hoppers are still in process. The client wanted light weathering and a few tags to match a prototype picture. There are some touch ups to be done and then they will be sent off for client approval.

The tags were added with a sharp Crimson Red Prismacolor colored pencil. The car was clear coated prior to the tagging being added. If the client wants a change, a wet cotton bud loaded with 91% isopropyl alcohol will easily remove them without damaging the weathering. I did wait 24 hours for the clear coat to dry before adding the tags
 
View attachment 183079View attachment 183080View attachment 183081View attachment 183082View attachment 183083View attachment 183084View attachment 183085View attachment 183086View attachment 183087View attachment 1830882 Cement Hoppers are still in process. The client wanted light weathering and a few tags to match a prototype picture. There are some touch ups to be done and then they will be sent off for client approval.

The tags were added with a sharp Crimson Red Prismacolor colored pencil. The car was clear coated prior to the tagging being added. If the client wants a change, a wet cotton bud loaded with 91% isopropyl alcohol will easily remove them without damaging the weathering. I did wait 24 hours for the clear coat to dry before adding the tags
WOW, I really like these, what did you use for the weathering ?
 
WOW, I really like these, what did you use for the weathering ?
Thank you Chris.

The base color is a mix of 3 grey colors from Vallejo Air applied as a wash

10% #71.056 panzer dk gray
20% #71.050 light gray
30% # 71.044 grey rlm02
40% tap water
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Applied with a brush as a wash until satisfied, then a Tamiya xf86 flat clear (straight from the bottle no thinning) was air brushed to seal. I did toss (gentlely) these 2 cars in the dehydrator to dry the cars for 20 hours before the next step.

The sort of heavier streaks were applied using Vallejo Air #71.045 cement grey, straight, no thinning. Applied with a brush as a dry brushing. Paint applied to the brush and brushed off onto a paper towel, then applied to the car sides. Then I immediately using a cotton bud blended the streaks into the car body. Much easier doing it then writing about it
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Sealed the cars again with the Tamiya xf86 flat clear
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Thank you Chris.

The base color is a mix of 3 grey colors from Vallejo Air applied as a wash

10% #71.056 panzer dk gray
20% #71.050 light gray
30% # 71.044 grey rlm02
40% tap water
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Applied with a brush as a wash until satisfied, then a Tamiya xf86 flat clear (straight from the bottle no thinning) was air brushed to seal. I did toss (gentlely) these 2 cars in the dehydrator to dry the cars for 20 hours before the next step.

The sort of heavier streaks were applied using Vallejo Air #71.045 cement grey, straight, no thinning. Applied with a brush as a dry brushing. Paint applied to the brush and brushed off onto a paper towel, then applied to the car sides. Then I immediately using a cotton bud blended the streaks into the car body. Much easier doing it then writing about it
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Sealed the cars again with the Tamiya xf86 flat clear
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Thank you, another method I need to print out for my weathering binder.
 
This will be about painting the truck frames and the wheels for the 3 car spine car set. The client requested a different more rusted color on these trucks. I have done many pieces of rolling stock for him and he wanted something different from my normal truck frames colors.

I started by using the MicroMart wheel tuner on the truck frames. Then hard brushed the trucks and wheels with a brush dipped into 70% Isopropyl Alcohol

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I let dry a few hours and then hand brushed Vallejo Panzer Aces #301 light rust, straight
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That’s were I am at. I think I will use Pan Pastels next. I will take pictures as I go along
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Winging it should be fun
 
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Thank you, another method I need to print out for my weathering binder.
When it comes to Cement hoppers if you go back into the thread there should be quite a few. I seem to change up the methods every 2-3 units I do. But I mostly mix and blend the Vallejo Air colors into a wash and apply with a brush.

I also did 2 cars with AK Interactives Dust effects that I enjoyed and the 2 clients appreciated. No other colors used


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This will be about painting the truck frames and the wheels for the 3 car spine car set. The client requested a different more rusted color on these trucks. I have done many pieces of rolling stock for him and he wanted something different from my normal truck frames colors.

I started by using the MicroMart wheel tuner on the truck frames. Then hard brushed the trucks and wheels with a brush dipped into 70% Isopropyl Alcohol

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I let dry a few hours and then hand brushed Vallejo Panzer Aces #301 light rust, straight
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That’s were I am at. I think I will use Pan Pastels next. I will take pictures as I go alongView attachment 183097
Winging it should be fun
What a world of difference even the first step makes.

Those are going to look great!
 
Thanks Mike, currently away from the bench. I actually have no idea how these will look but like any weathering. Isopropyl Alcohol fixes most weathering issues if I or the client don't like it
I went and looked at some of these AK Interactive products.

What all are you using of theirs?

This is why I love to follow along so closely with this thread, I would have no clue most of these products even exist!
 
I went and looked at some of these AK Interactive products.

What all are you using of theirs?

This is why I love to follow along so closely with this thread, I would have no clue most of these products even exist!
Mike as you know since you’ve been following along I primarily use Tamiya Arcylics for my base coats and fades. Weathering is done mostly with the Vallejo series of Arcylics paints, Air, Panzer Aces and Model Color.

But I do have and use or used others. Mission Models, Badger, Scalecoat2 come to my immediate thoughts. Abteilung502 oils I use quite often but only for my personal fleet and structures

As for AK Interactive, for Christmas 2022 I asked for one of their 3 bottle kits they sell and the wonderful son is my gifter on weathering supplies, purchased it
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They are enamels and are used with oderless Mineral Spirits. They are ok and I use them occasionally. They have seen action in 2024 mainly on 2 bay hoppers and the upcoming 3 bay hoppers that the 2bay client has now moved to. I will definitively note the AK use when I start the 3 bay hoppers most likely the end of April

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I use lots of pigments and Pan Pastels. I love the PP and have used the various Abteilung 502’s pigments but shown is my last bottle. I occasionally use the AIM light charcoal powder I purchased to try and I do like it. Before Covid I was going to buy the AIM full line of weathering powders but a former work client just after I found out he also owned AIM and before I could buy sold it to Monroe. That was years ago and while I know they are a great product, I don’t need them as I truly like the PP

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For Xmas 2023 I asked for the Ammo by MIG line of paints to try. I am still experimenting on my own stuff. This was a set at the now closed ModelTrainStuff and the son got it for 60% off from the retail price. So far that’s the only reason to have purchased it. They seem to me to be copies of the AK Interactive products

Finally I use weathering Pencils from AK Interactive, Prismacolor colored pencils and lots of different brands of marker pens for graffiti and tags
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Basically none of the products I use would I consider to be bad nor are any truly exceptional. The Craftsman paint markers available at Michaels do come close though in the bad category! Some product lines are definitely more expensive than others. Overall though I don’t recommend any one brand over any other.

If I was to offer weathering advice to a new modeler starting out, I would say start with Pan Pastels or the Monroe (fka as AIM) weathering powders. I can pretty much do with the Pan Pastels what I can do with any of the paints. My main issue with PP is when I clear coat them they can dissolve

I know give TomO a simple question and he can answer with way more then u need
 
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Wheelsets and truck frames

I showed the truck frames on 3/4/2024 after the initial rust color was applied. Last night I applied Vallejo Air # 71.029 Dark Earth by dabbing an almost dry brush to the truck frames. I might have 4 drops of paint on the pallet that I barely dipped the brush into to

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I like them

For the wheel faces I used the same paint Dark Earth and dabbed it onto the wheel face and let them dry overnight.
Another coat is needed ( which is unusual) BUT I will NOT do the backside of the wheel. I generally like to cover the axle and the back of wheel. This client uses resistors for train and car detection so those parts are left unfinished to allow him to do whatever he does to attach the resistors

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Showed these spine cars last Monday and I wasn’t thrilled.
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Instead of stripping them and starting over I played with them early this morning

Sometimes I get stubborn and instead of cutting my loses by starting over, I try to fix things
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I’m not sure if I can fix this but I am continuing. The oil type spill is supposed to be hydraulic fluid from the trailers these units carry.

These 3 have been in the dehydrator sine 10:30 or 3 hours, I will look at them in another hour. I’m hoping when I spray the underframe and sides with some dirt/light grime I can blend a bit of that spray into the top area here. If not or if I continue to dislike these, the 99% Isopropyl Alcohol is ready for use
 
Not part of the batch of 80 reefers I have been working on. 2 units have been done just waiting for a final clear coat.
(I as out) The client asked if I had any extras after he approved the 2. Why, yes I do, image that!!!

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Anyway, he does not want any graffiti but does want a few small tags and a fairly clean unit

This is a non sound unit and rolls ok. I added a #209 Kadee gray fiber washer at .010 in thickness

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to bring the now Kadee #148 couplers
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in line with the Kadee coupler gauge.

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I added Kadee’s greas-em to the trucks where the axle joins the truck frame and a smidge to the rotating roller bearings. I rarely use greas-em or grafite!

I then took a dremel tool with a very used wire brush attached and for 1 minute (timed) applied it to the wheel thread to spin the wheels (Breakin). The car now rolls much better.

Next up is a light weathering with just a hint of roadbed kick up along the bottom sill of the car.
 
This 1st photo is typical of the refrigeration end panel of the reefers on the last reefers of the day. My wife rejected these!
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The next couple photos are hopefully more acceptable, even though the household critic says they need more work!
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I have 18 more to adjust and add just a touch of exhaust on the front edge of the roof


any thoughts
 
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