Sunset Models 2-10-2

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#1
I have a beautifully painted Sunset Models USRA Heavy 2-10-2 from the early 1990s. The one driver in the middle has no flange. In planning my layout it looks like 24" mainline curves will need to be used. Does anyone know if this locomotive will be able to negotiate that sharp of a curve? This is my big steam for hauling a string of 70T hoppers.

Thanks.
 

montanan

Whiskey Merchant
#4
You should be alright. The middle driver being bling is common on longer locomotives. I am also sure the the ones on either side of the center driver have a bit of side play also so they will follow the curve.
 

bnsf971

AKA Gomez Addams
Staff member
#5
The best way to make sure it will go around that tight of a curve is to get a package of Atlas 24" curved pieces, and make sure not only the drivers will traverse the radius. but also the cab overhang will not drag the front of the tender off the rails. A less-than-$10 pack of track could help prevent a lot of frustration later.
 

Selector

Active Member
#6
The best way to make sure it will go around that tight of a curve is to get a package of Atlas 24" curved pieces, and make sure not only the drivers will traverse the radius. but also the cab overhang will not drag the front of the tender off the rails. A less-than-$10 pack of track could help prevent a lot of frustration later.
This. Test it out. Use first-hand facts to avoid disappointment and self-recrimination.
 
#7
Are the drivers sprung? If so, they may catch on the inside top of the rails when the locomotive comes out of the curve. If not, you may be okay. Another possibility would be to remove the flanges from the drivers in front and in back of the blind one. That would, of course, entail disassembly and turning of the drivers on a lathe or drill press. You'd need to remove one driver from each axle in order to chuck the axle up in the press or lathe. You'd then have to re-install the turned driver, remove the opposite one, turn off the flange, reinstall the other driver and then re-quarter them all to match. A LOT of work, but might be necessary. Personally, I've kitbashed Mantua Mikados into 2-10-2's and 2-10-4's with all but the end drivers blind and shimmed .010" so the blind driver don't touch the tops of the rails. You can't see the gap unless you get right down next to them with a light behind the locomotive, but I can run them around 18-inch radius curves without any problem!
 



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