Running Bear's Coffee Shoppe LIX


Good morning shop dwellers!TOOT Sorry about the treads on the crawler. Maybe you could get something from Jordan Products that would work off of the crane that they have.

Thanks for that suggestion Sherrel. Had a look at that crane, but too early for my Cat D9's etc. Following that reference in Google images, did find this one from WS in metal which looks promising, didn't know they had stuff like this

wood235.jpg
 
The WS machines look really crisp but do not operate. I have this loader in the pre-assembled model but have seen the metal kits and the tracks are molded as a complete unit, one for each side, and they are glued onto the body by the kit maker.

That is how they get the high detail.
 
The little W/S dozer is a nice one. I have one along with my crane that has rubber band tracks.

IMAG0332.jpg

A little touch up on the tracks with some silver paint will probably improve the appearance. The crane came with wheels, but that wouldn't be a good idea to have in a salvage yard. I found a cheap tracked vehicle and removed the track and installed it on the crane but haven't touched up the tracks yet. Still have work to do on the salvage yard.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Good afternoon.

I noticed several other model railroads have the WS bulldozer I built a few weeks ago.

Chet ... I sold the live steam locomotive. I decided not to get involved with live steam. HO scale is more manageable.

LSM ... Our family went to Disneyland soon after it opened in the 1950's. We rode from Chicago where we lived to California on the Santa Fe Super Chief. Definitely a trip to remember

Sherrell .... I also recall train rides at fairs and amusement parks when I was a kid.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Evening All,

Spent another 90 minutes today folding and taping car cards. I remember watching a special on tv about Walt Disney and his RR on his property. It was quite impressive.

I was staring at my layout (I do my best MRR thinking that way) and it suddenly clicked. The coal wharf I am talking about is used to fill tenders on steamers not filling coal hoppers, soooo...I guess the wharf will not be happening, but I will still connect the other 2 tracks to the main to help with ops. After that I will probably work on my yard ladder.

NG- Glad the shark is fine and behaving. I have also been to Blue Ridge and MOH and I did the train excursion there.

Willie- Happy belated birthday.

Chet- Excellent business scenes. Did you make the chain link fence.

Chessie- Sorry about the loco. Hopefully you can repaint it. Can you test the yellow color on a piece of styrene to check it?

Garry- That would of been awesome to be around as a kid.

I hope everyone has a good night.
 
Good evening. It's mostly clear, and 28. It barely made it above freezing today.
I'm currently on hold with Paypal about the issue I'm having. I can't seem to get the message across to them that the person I bought the item from is not the person that got the money. This may be why people run these scams for less than $30, it is almost too much trouble to get your money back.

In an unrelated deal, Factory Direct Trains sent me an email offering some BLI diesels for about 65% off retail. I grabbed one, since the diesels seem to hold up much better than their steam engines. After all, $129 for a new sound-equipped engine is a pretty good price...
 
Well fellers, I kind of got back to trains today since I didn't get a call about work. [story coming later bout that]
I've thinking to do a little rock cut through type on my SW (south-west) corner with some scrap foam my landlord gave me.
I have ZERO experience with foam but know enough to know this is NOT sculpting foam.
But I'll make it work.
I'll just do a little section in my SW corner as a test.
P1050005_1.jpg

Any thoughts? That inner piece between the rails I imagine rasping down to not much more than berm really.
I'm just freestyling once again.
E.
 
BigE, if that foam is the bead type white Styrofoam used for packing it will make a huge mess compared to the pink or blue insulation board that is used for houses. It can be used but be prepared for a mess and static electricity can make cleaning it up a frustrating experience.
 
BigE, if that foam is the bead type white Styrofoam used for packing it will make a huge mess compared to the pink or blue insulation board that is used for houses. It can be used but be prepared for a mess and static electricity can make cleaning it up a frustrating experience.

No kiddin' Bob. I already figured that out cutting those 2 pieces between the rails.
And, yes it is type of Styrofoam you describe.
It was free so I'll make do if I can. It sure ain't no sculpting foam to be sure.
E.
 
No kiddin' Bob. I already figured that out cutting those 2 pieces between the rails.
And, yes it is type of Styrofoam you describe.
It was free so I'll make do if I can. It sure ain't no sculpting foam to be sure.
E.
Eric, they make a foam cutter that is pretty much mess-free. It operates by using a couple of D cell batteries to heat a wire that you push through the foam. It cauterizes the cut with the heat to minimize styrofoam snowstorms.
 
Well.... looks like I might be out of work for a while.
I won't go into that.
In the mean time I think I'll try my hand at some foam sculpting - even if it is the "wrong" stuff to do so with.
Might as well do something.
E.
 
Eric, they make a foam cutter that is pretty much mess-free. It operates by using a couple of D cell batteries to heat a wire that you push through the foam. It cauterizes the cut with the heat to minimize styrofoam snowstorms.

I'm not in a position to spend money right now - except for food.
I'll work with my rasping file and see what happens.
I'm working "on the cheap" now.
I'll just wing-it.
 
Good evening. Temperature range today was between 10 and 30 degrees. Right now with a calm wind its 14 degrees.

David: In the previous coffee shop, you wrote: " Say Joe: I assume your referring to the tighter radius of a #5 straight switch? According to the template I printed out for a #5 switch it says the Diverging Route Radius is [26"]. I'm build my turnouts using printed Fast-Tracks template only and my straight switches will be #5.

Curved switches should save you a fair amount lot of space. I'm again using printed FT Templates for #6 curved turnouts. Now here is an interesting difference in Radius of two HO #6 switches. One says the, Outside Radius is 24" and the Inside Radius is 18". The HO #6 templates I've been working with are 30" Outside Radius, 21" Inside Radius.

I've found that a curved switch will allow you to fit in more as you can place it in the curve before it straightens out saving a fair amount of room. It's the only way I've been able to fit in all that I've done so far."

So per Fast Tracks, the diverging route radius of a #5 switch is 26" Thanks, that's what was looking for. The initial diverging switches must come off of a tangent lead. Curved switches won't work there. Curved #7 switches will work as the second switch off the first one, as they will be part of the 90 degree turn into the plant. 26" radius
will work with high cubes, and multi-levels.
Ford Chester Plant - 2_edited.jpg
As the photo shows, the lead has several diverging tracks to the left, before it curves to the left at the far end of the last building. That's the effect I'm looking for.

Garry: That's one nice photo of your dad, and the live steamer.

NG: Good to hear the "Shark" is working. Remember, they're limited to 65MPH on the main in real life. Your description reminds me of an engineer that flipped an Alco RS3 on its right side one night. Tried to take a 13° left hand curve at 48MPH. Nasty wreck, miraculously, no one was seriously hurt.

Eric: You may want to try some rock castings between the two tracks instead of another rock cut. Just a thought. There isn't a lot of room there.
 
Chet asked [over phone call] what my intentions were about that foam on the corner.
Well, here is my idea.
P1050005_1.jpgP1050005_2.jpgP1050006_1.jpgP1050007_1.jpg
 
Eric: You may want to try some rock castings between the two tracks instead of another rock cut. Just a thought. There isn't a lot of room there.

Oh dam!! I sent the rock molds back to Chet.
Ha! I made 2 casting of each before I sent them back.
I'll just grind on this foam stuff to see what it reveals and I'll go from there.
I still have some regular POP and sculpamold on hand.
Like I told Chet tonight, I'm just free-styling.

But like you said Joe there isn't much room between those tracks. That's why I'm testing a little berm. My big engines, FP45 and ES44AC I got from Terry have some serious over hang. But I ran them both through (with long trains) what I have sitting there and they didn't touch.
That one corner has nothing except to bash people's hips when they walk by.
E.
 
STand fast! Rock scenery in that corner will not fly.
It would totally cut off any service road into the sand and fueling facility I had in mind.
Alas..... I simply don't have the real estate for it.

Big Sigh......
E.
 
Good evening. Temperature range today was between 10 and 30 degrees. Right now with a calm wind its 14 degrees.

David: In the previous coffee shop, you wrote: " Say Joe: I assume your referring to the tighter radius of a #5 straight switch? According to the template I printed out for a #5 switch it says the Diverging Route Radius is [26"]. I'm build my turnouts using printed Fast-Tracks template only and my straight switches will be #5.

Curved switches should save you a fair amount lot of space. I'm again using printed FT Templates for #6 curved turnouts. Now here is an interesting difference in Radius of two HO #6 switches. One says the, Outside Radius is 24" and the Inside Radius is 18". The HO #6 templates I've been working with are 30" Outside Radius, 21" Inside Radius.

I've found that a curved switch will allow you to fit in more as you can place it in the curve before it straightens out saving a fair amount of room. It's the only way I've been able to fit in all that I've done so far."

So per Fast Tracks, the diverging route radius of a #5 switch is 26" Thanks, that's what was looking for. The initial diverging switches must come off of a tangent lead. Curved switches won't work there. Curved #7 switches will work as the second switch off the first one, as they will be part of the 90 degree turn into the plant. 26" radius
will work with high cubes, and multi-levels.
View attachment 55069
As the photo shows, the lead has several diverging tracks to the left, before it curves to the left at the far end of the last building. That's the effect I'm looking for.

Garry: That's one nice photo of your dad, and the live steamer.

NG: Good to hear the "Shark" is working. Remember, they're limited to 65MPH on the main in real life. Your description reminds me of an engineer that flipped an Alco RS3 on its right side one night. Tried to take a 13° left hand curve at 48MPH. Nasty wreck, miraculously, no one was seriously hurt.

Eric: You may want to try some rock castings between the two tracks instead of another rock cut. Just a thought. There isn't a lot of room there.


Say Joe: Your welcome, glad I was able to get you the information you needed.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
27° right now. Wind chill puts it at 21.
Think I'll cook me up a breakfast. Couple little sausage patties and eggo waffles and eggs and toast on the side.
Need to do a little groc shopping at some point today. I'll strap on my back pack for this run.
Wish I had a ride to the WalMart. It would be a bit cheaper. Not a lot but worth not having to walk it and pack it home.
Now that I'm pondering on this, I think I'll go shopping around 0700 and be done with it. No matter the cold. I can handle that.
E.
 



Back
Top