New Layout, Suggestions Needed


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Can you guys let me know as far as how this works for an interchange yard? Supposed to represent Conrail track ends, NS begins…. NS territory is upper level, Conrail lower level, this is the lower level
 
Chris:
For a control panel this looks good. Do have questions though.

What does the double crossover get you between L18 and L9? The single crossovers at the left and right of the ladder do allow a train to get in and out of the ladder tracks from Main2 ( L9 ). Those could be double slips on the L18 side if you need the space.

The 'possible helix entry' on the right side of the helix needs to be there or you can't get to the helix going left to right from the yard. The one on the left does what?

L22 a switcher pocket? You might think of moving to L10 and adding an additional on the other L10. This would free up L21 for whole trains and not just a run around.

Sure, you are interchanging whole trains. There could be times that only a portion of the train needs to go, where the rest stays. Can't tell from here, is L10 your drill track. If so, are they as long as L21 minus power?

Since a train is changing territories, are you also going to change power, or you have lease options in place? If changing power, maybe some sort of 'ready/waiting track' on both ends?

It would be cool to see the actual trackplan if possible.

Here is what I came up with for my AD/class/holding.
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In your case, all of your tracks are A/D. My Drill does not go back to the Main ( to the left ) as we do not want to take jobs from the switch crew and have something come in unannounced. The track one down from the 'ByPass' is for cabeese although I may expand those two tracks into three tracks.

Have fun!

Later
 
Thank you very much, exactly what I need to hear…

Crossovers between L18/9 - Was an option I threw in at the last minute, easily removed. I believe I designed something similar on my last layout and got the exact same response, didn’t learn my lesson the first time apparently 🙄

Helix entry on left - Was originally My only point of access to helix. L11 is my ascent track from lower level to upper to shorten helix, but means NS has to travel Conrail rails. Adding the entry to right prevents this so I can change motive
power at the yard, trying to add operational necessities so not just watching trains go round and round. Will add to the dimensions of the helix but a sacrifice I am willing to make.

L22 - Was going to expand with turnouts to fill that space somewhat, thought about cabeese, unused motive power, maybe rolling stock in need of minor repair…

I apologize, as usual I measure my space, do some calculations with pen and paper, attack and build. Not the best method I know, but have used design software before, for some reason I just enjoy doing it this way, despite the issues I encounter.

My biggest problem with this particular section is available space. Even with only a 24” aisle table top is restricted to 21.5”, losing 4” of that for track running behind the yard…

My posts are never this long winded, sorry about that, but I do it hope it helps you guys to help me lol
 
Chris: Never worry about long winded posts as I have written books! In fact, just writing said posts in some cases helps me sort out the actual issue/problem, after I hit post of course; then I get more ideas/suggestions from the group.

Later
 
Question…
I plan on having two 9” girder bridges connected, should there be feet under both (4 feet) at the connection, or just one on each side that supports both (2 feet)?
Been looking online for an answer but not smart enough to understand apparently 🙄
 
Single or double track? Most of the bridges here were double track but have been reduced to single track or replaced. The closest bridge to me is made of of 3 separate sections. 2 are truss bridges with 1 girder bridge. Each has a support under the bridge end. So it’s a total of 5 supports for that bridge. The support on the riverbank, 3 piers and the riverbank support against the opposite shore. I’m going to say that the support roughly measures 10 feet. 5 feet for each end of the bridge with a expansion joint directly in the middle of the pier.
 
Single or double track? Most of the bridges here were double track but have been reduced to single track or replaced. The closest bridge to me is made of of 3 separate sections. 2 are truss bridges with 1 girder bridge. Each has a support under the bridge end. So it’s a total of 5 supports for that bridge. The support on the riverbank, 3 piers and the riverbank support against the opposite shore. I’m going to say that the support roughly measures 10 feet. 5 feet for each end of the bridge with a expansion joint directly in the middle of the pier.
Will be single track…. Thanks for the reply, I’ll keep snooping the Internet and observing what I got near me, but most train bridges around here just span a road, not really long enough for a real world example…
 
Google Earth is a good resource. Bridges normally aren’t flat in the picture but you get the idea of how big they are. Streetview could also help you as well.
 
Just to be sure I asked the right question…

I am supporting where the 2 bridges will join, but do I use a set of feet on both, or one set of feet for the two to “share”?
 
My other hobby is magnet fishing so I do spend time around bridges. The measurements I stated above are a rough guess to how big the support pier under a bridge is. Not risking getting a trespassing charge or getting hit by going on a active rail line to get measurements. The one bridge that I’ve been magnet fishing off of is 2 Warren truss bridges supported in the center by 1 pier. When I can get back out to it, I’ll definitely take a picture and a ruler to get better measurements.
 
Guess this where each railroad has/had it’s own way of building bridges. Not sure on who originally built the bridge. NS maintains it now.
 
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Not quite level, gonna add a small layer of floor level to make sure water flows right when poured, or am I over doing it?
 
View attachment 180601Not quite level, gonna add a small layer of floor level to make sure water flows right when poured, or am I over doing it?
I don't think there is such a thing as over doing it in model railroading (thats what my wife thinks). You will get the nicest looking pour if it is level. With the stuff I used, I had to have a little lip around the area. Making sure there is an impervious surface underneath also helps.

Dave LASM
 
I realized I was thinking goofy again 🙄 That is a single piece of table top, just added shims to make level, it’s good now…. Will be sealing with paint and caulk to make sure it’s leak proof after the foam sides are added, exposed edges will have a lip…
 



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