Need Help With Information on Lionel Train Set


GuilfordRailman said:
What is the Lionel smoke fluid made from? Is mineral oil a close second? I’ll need to acquire some to keep this locomotive chugging along:)
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Supposedly mineral oil. However, "mineral oil" is a rather broad term for a variety of mineral oils, kind of like saying "motor oil" is the best oil for use in automobile engines. Um, yeah, but which motor oil? There's a big variety of them out there, with different ratings and purposes. By the way, DON'T try and use motor oil as a smoke fluid, as it's not good for a variety of reasons.

I did some investigating and experimenting a few years ago, and I'm quite sure that another popular brand of smoke fluid uses "Ultra-pure Paraffin Lamp Oil" as the main ingredient. That's what I currently use. You should be able to find it at most hardware stores. I have found that big box stores in my area don't carry it. They do carry regular "Lamp Oil" and "Citronella Oil" for Tiki torches and such however, but it's not the same stuff. Once again, don't use it unless it specifically says "Ultra Pure Paraffin Lamp Oil" directly on the bottle. Believe it or not, UPPLO is very closely related to mineral oil, chemically-speaking.

I have found both red and clear UPPLO at my hardware stores, and either color works good. Get clear if possible, but red is okay too if they're out of the clear stuff. The red stuff still puffs out white smoke just like the clear, so there's really no difference there. I know, 'cause I use both. There's a little bit of a pungent odor when using UPPLO, but it dissipates after a short period of time. Plus, in my experience, it doesn't leave a residual layer of goo on everything after re-condensing. That would indicate it simply evaporates afterwards. Other smoke fluids (vegetable oils, glycerins, etc.), not so much. They re-condense back into their original state and fall back to earth, adhering to everything they touch.

If you really want to get fancy, you could mix in a little bit of scented candle oil in with your smoke fluid. I haven't been able to find wood scented, or coal scented, or creosote scented candle oils, but the only suitable scent easily available in my area that I like is cedar scented oil (from Hobby Lobby). I don't have a good ratio to offer as a mix right now, but maybe somewhere around 10% to 25% of the scented oil mixed into the UPPLO smoke fluid might be a good place to start.

Hope this helps a little. :)👍
 
I googled Lionel Smoke Fluid Ingredients, and found this explanation.

Materials Needed. For the most basic train smoke fluid, there's only one thing you need: mineral oil. If this doesn't sound familiar to you, it's commonly called paraffin oil in the US. This is easily found at any drugstore or most supermarkets as it is commonly marketed as a laxative.
 
I received my Lionel locomotive and track maintenance kit today:)

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I watched a few videos and understand the basics of where to oil and grease but I have two questions regarding the maintenance that I couldn’t find answers to.

The first is in reference to the exposed gears on the side of the locomotive. In the video I watched, the instructor stated to not grease the exposed gears due to the fact that debris can become trapped in the grease and cause problems. My question is…how do these exposed gears stay maintained if I shouldn’t grease them?

My next question is more locomotive specific so if you’re familiar with the locomotive I have, maybe you can help? The instructor stated that if you don’t plan to use smoke fluid all the time, disconnect the smoke unit as it can be damaged when empty. I looked on the bottom and sides of my locomotive and couldn’t find a switch. How do I disable the smoke unit? Do I just need to use smoke fluid all the time?
 
GuilfordRailman said:
I received my Lionel locomotive and track maintenance kit today:)

I watched a few videos and understand the basics of where to oil and grease but I have two questions regarding the maintenance that I couldn’t find answers to.

The first is in reference to the exposed gears on the side of the locomotive. In the video I watched, the instructor stated to not grease the exposed gears due to the fact that debris can become trapped in the grease and cause problems. My question is…how do these exposed gears stay maintained if I shouldn’t grease them?

My next question is more locomotive specific so if you’re familiar with the locomotive I have, maybe you can help? The instructor stated that if you don’t plan to use smoke fluid all the time, disconnect the smoke unit as it can be damaged when empty. I looked on the bottom and sides of my locomotive and couldn’t find a switch. How do I disable the smoke unit? Do I just need to use smoke fluid all the time?
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Your video instructor can ruin his gears by running them dry if he wants to, but I grease the gears on all of my Lionel locos, exposed or not. I use "Red & Tacky", which is an automotive grease. It is tacky, and doesn't fly off. The oil is best on anything that spins/rotates, such as the motor armature bearings, gear bearings, axle bearings, postwar freight and passenger car wheel-to-axle joints, etc. Needle-point axles in plastic trucks don't necessarily need any oil, but needle-point axles in metal trucks will benefit with a drop of oil. I guess my best advice is, don't lay down track in the playground sand box or dirt pile, and you shouldn't have to worry about picking up any dirt in the gears or bearings. The worst that might happen is picking up hairs or fuzz if setting up your track on carpeting. Wouldn't hurt to vacuum the carpet frequently in that case.

One thing though, don't use any grease or oil on the e-unit (the reverse unit) in your loco. The coil, plunger, drum, and everything about it should be squeaky clean and grease/oil-free in order for it to operate properly. You can use CRC Contact Cleaner on it if need be.

The smoke unit in your loco does not have an on-off switch, unless some inventive previous owner installed one (highly doubtful). The only other way to disconnect power then is to detach one of the electrical wires going to the smoke unit. Otherwise, plan on using smoke fluid all the time, because yes, you can damage the unit by letting it run dry. I believe your smoke unit is a permanently sealed unit which is not meant to be re-built. Once it's shot, it's most likely gone for good.
 
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Mixed Freight said:
Your video instructor can ruin his gears by running them dry if he wants to, but I grease the gears on all of my Lionel locos, exposed or not.
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I thought it seemed like a bad idea! I will certainly grease them. Right now the track is on the carpet, which I do vacuum frequently but I’m hoping to setup the train somewhere more permanent.

I will just make sure to use smoke fluid all the time. Maybe I can get some scented Lionel fluids to please my fiancé hahaha so she doesn’t complain about the smoke anymore.
 
So…I acquired another Lionel train set:)

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It was almost fully complete, just missing a couple rail connector pins and some of the plastic stakes for the flat car. The locomotive runs great, definitely better than my other one, but…it has one small issue that I need feedback on to help correct the problem.

The previous owner tried (and failed) to solder the electrical connector between the tender and locomotive for the sound and didn’t do a good job. Does anybody have any recommendations for replacing/ repairing the connector? I’m not much of an electrician so I want to make sure it’s done right! As you can see in the picture below, the connection is barely hanging on.

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The other small issue I don’t need to fix but would certainly like to is finding a replacement for one of the red lights on the front of the locomotive. See image below.

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Any recommendations for replacement parts, either Lionel or a close substitute?
 
GuilfordRailman said:
So…I acquired another Lionel train set:)

View attachment 171574

View attachment 171576It was almost fully complete, just missing a couple rail connector pins and some of the plastic stakes for the flat car. The locomotive runs great, definitely better than my other one, but…it has one small issue that I need feedback on to help correct the problem.

The previous owner tried (and failed) to solder the electrical connector between the tender and locomotive for the sound and didn’t do a good job. Does anybody have any recommendations for replacing/ repairing the connector? I’m not much of an electrician so I want to make sure it’s done right! As you can see in the picture below, the connection is barely hanging on.

View attachment 171575

The other small issue I don’t need to fix but would certainly like to is finding a replacement for one of the red lights on the front of the locomotive. See image below.

View attachment 171578

Any recommendations for replacement parts, either Lionel or a close substitute?
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I picked up some marker light jewels in the correct size and type from my LHS “details and accessories” rack. They are not Lionel-specific.
 
bnsf971 said:
I picked up some marker light jewels in the correct size and type from my LHS “details and accessories” rack. They are not Lionel-specific.
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Unfortunately the only true hobby shop nearby my location closed down after Covid. 26 years or so in business too. Oh well, at least the internet exists!

I’ll see what I can find online for marker light jewels.
 
GuilfordRailman said:
So…I acquired another Lionel train set:)

The previous owner tried (and failed) to solder the electrical connector between the tender and locomotive for the sound and didn’t do a good job. Does anybody have any recommendations for replacing/ repairing the connector? I’m not much of an electrician so I want to make sure it’s done right! As you can see in the picture below, the connection is barely hanging on.

View attachment 171575
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Congratulations! That's one of Lionel's nicer 4-4-2 locos. Complete with die-cast shell. And probably an all-around better drive mechanism than your plastic-shelled loco. The balance of the freight cars included with the set are still probably el-cheapo's, unfortunately. I know, because I have a set very similar to this one. ;)

Your almost-detached connector is a super easy fix - provided you know how to solder. The easiest thing to do would be to remove the plastic tender shell in order to expose more of the wire, so it's easier to work on.

On the front of the tender shell, near the bottom of the shell, there should be a screw (probably a Phillips head). Remove this screw, the raise the front of shell up slightly from the frame. Then slide the shell backwards a little bit to disengage it from a couple of integral sheet metal frame tabs. This will free the shell from the stamped metal frame.

Cut the connector off, and with a hot soldering iron, heat and remove the remnants of the wire from the connector. Strip a little bit of the insulation off the good end of the wire you just cut, and re-solder it to the connector with a touch of rosin-core solder. You might even use a short piece of heat-shrink tubing for a more professional job. Anyway, at this point, it should be good as new. Reassemble the shell back to the frame and you're back in business. :)👍
 
Mixed Freight said:
Congratulations! That's one of Lionel's nicer 4-4-2 locos. Complete with die-cast shell. And probably an all-around better drive mechanism than your plastic-shelled loco. The balance of the freight cars included with the set are still probably el-cheapo's, unfortunately.
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Sweet! Had no idea, lol. Yeah, the cars are definitely on the cheaper side, but they’re still cool. I’m hoping to acquire some nicer ones over time.

Thanks for the thorough repair breakdown! I’m not the best at soldering but good enough to get the job done:)
 
Both my locomotives are fully cleaned up and almost ready for action on the mainline!

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I took some time today to try soldering for the first time in a couple years in order to repair the failed soldering job of the previous owner. Turned out better than I thought! Only two attempts…

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I’ll go ahead and clean up the solder a bit and wrap a tiny piece of electrical tape around the connection to protect it.

Meanwhile…upon removing the shell from the tender, I discovered that the foam cushion beneath the soundboard has begun to fall apart and is half separated from the chassis.

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Any recommendations for how to repair/replace this?
 
bnsf971 said:
I'd just use foam tape.
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I was thinking I could use that but I’m not sure it’ll fully work. The circuit components are partially imbedded into the thin foam as some of the components stick out further below others. (If that makes sense?)

I’m not sure the foam tape would allow for the same thing.
 
GuilfordRailman said:
I was thinking I could use that but I’m not sure it’ll fully work. The circuit components are partially imbedded into the thin foam as some of the components stick out further below others. (If that makes sense?)

I’m not sure the foam tape would allow for the same thing.
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Correct. You don't want any of the components' solder joints touching the sheet metal tender frame and shorting out. That's killed off more of those old circuit boards than anything else, if the truth is known.

Fortunately, you have at least a few easy (hopefully) options. For one, if you can find some thick, double-sided adhesive foam sheet, you can make a new replacement. Of course, finding the stuff may end up being more hassle and more cost than it's worth. Or you could make your own out of some 1/2" or 3/4" thick soft or hard foam or carpet padding, and some water-based contact cement. Make sure any foam you use is not so thick that the tender shell won't fit back down on the frame.

Another option: make 4 standoffs out of round plastic tubing. Clean the old, disintegrating foam off of the board and frame, and drill a hole in each corner of the board. Drill a matching hole pattern in the sheet metal bottom of the tender, then use machine screws, nuts, and lock washers to attach the board to the frame, with the standoffs in between to hold the board up off the frame so as to prevent shorting. Use thread locker to prevent the screws/nuts from coming loose. You'd have to be careful if using this method, so as not to interfere with truck movement or other potential clearance issues.

Hope this gives you a few ideas. :)👍
 
Mixed Freight said:
Correct. You don't want any of the components' solder joints touching the sheet metal tender frame and shorting out. That's killed off more of those old circuit boards than anything else, if the truth is known.

Fortunately, you have at least a few easy (hopefully) options. For one, if you can find some thick, double-sided adhesive foam sheet, you can make a new replacement. Of course, finding the stuff may end up being more hassle and more cost than it's worth. Or you could make your own out of some 1/2" or 3/4" thick soft or hard foam or carpet padding, and some water-based contact cement. Make sure any foam you use is not so thick that the tender shell won't fit back down on the frame.

Another option: make 4 standoffs out of round plastic tubing. Clean the old, disintegrating foam off of the board and frame, and drill a hole in each corner of the board. Drill a matching hole pattern in the sheet metal bottom of the tender, then use machine screws, nuts, and lock washers to attach the board to the frame, with the standoffs in between to hold the board up off the frame so as to prevent shorting. Use thread locker to prevent the screws/nuts from coming loose. You'd have to be careful if using this method, so as not to interfere with truck movement or other potential clearance issues.

Hope this gives you a few ideas. :)👍
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These are great ideas! I like both options but for simplicity sake, I think the first option will be the one I go with. I’ll have to have a look around my local hardware store and see what I can come up with for materials to make it work. Thanks for the help!
 
I have acquired some pre-cut squares of double-sided foam tape to utilize for the replacement of the foam located underneath the soundboard circuit in the locomotive tender. I managed to clean the chassis side very well with some goo-gone and dish soap with warm water.

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However…I don’t want to use the same method to clean the remaining foam particles that are still attached to the circuit board as seen below. Any recommendations for what I can do to get it cleaned up prior to adhering the foam tape?

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On a different note, I realized I have a bit more soldering ahead of me. As you can see in the photos below, the wires feeding into the rail pickups for the sound board aren’t looking too good! I will have to add this repair to my list of model railroad to-dos.

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