Disaster on the Twin Cities Hiawatha.


Iron Horseman

Well-Known Member
I buckled down yesterday and worked really hard to get the Hiawatha cars ready for their video debut on the museum layout. I decided it would be easier to do assembly line style instead of beginning to end on each car.

So carefully removed each from the boxes marking them so they could be matched back up.
Went through each car and cut the Kadee coupler pin off.
Went through each car checking wheel gauge and coupler height.
Then the hard part, started working through drilling all the holes for the hand rails.
It seemed to work really well I went through all 11 cars and approximately 300 holes (I quit doing the hand rails on the ends when I realized when the cars are coupled together no one can see them), in less than 4 hours. More remarkably I did not break a drill bit.

Start through again installing the hand rails. The hand rails just dropped in. Oh no. Normally they require a bit of pressing. I had started with the drill bit in the Dremel but noticed it was melting the plastic and making the holes too large. So I switched to the hand drill. With the too large holes I thought perhaps I was dealing with this first set of holes. That was not the case, on the 4th hand rail, I realized I had used the wrong drill bit size for all 300 holes. A #77 or even #76 bit somehow got into the slot for the #80s. So now I have a whole train set with loose and floppy, fall out hand rails.

I'm going to use some gel super glue hoping it fills the gaps. There went all the time I saved. Plus its going to be a nightmare touching up the paint. So instead of an 8 hour deal it is going to be closer to 40.

So new rule. Us the micrometer on the drill bit before using it.
 
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Darn - that had to have been so frustrating, to say the least. Would it be easier and or quicker to fill the holes then re drill them?
 
Darn - that had to have been so frustrating, to say the least. Would it be easier and or quicker to fill the holes then re drill them?
Hmmm, never thought of filling them. I don't know, that would still require paint matching and touch up. I might try it on one and see. Have to say though my hand is still a bit sore from all that drilling.
 
G'day Iron Horseman....At least it's refreshing (in a way) to know that even master modelers like yourself have the occasional hiccup..Gives hope for some less skilled like myself , that the odd mistake and stuff up are all a part of this amazing hobby...I have TOTAL FAITH that you'll find a great solution and when in operation the new cars will look incredible..Not in this case necessarily but it does remind me of our old Woodwork teacher , Mr Halmkin's favourite line in 'shop' .."Boy's..Measure twice ,cut once "....I reckon I heard him say that , a thousand times in four years of High School...Cheers Rod......
 
Oh yeah I've done that too, but totally my fault by saying "this looks close enough!"
Wound up doing as you mentioned, thick glues and touch up paint.
Good luck!
 
In plastic I oversize the holes a little for a loose fit. Then with the tip of a #11 blade, or sometimes a bit of #28 gauge bare wire, I put gap-filling ACC glue in the hole from the front side. It usually sucks in by capillary action. The glue makes a nice transition "fillet" that often doesn't even need paint touch up. If I showed you one you wouldn't even notice how it was done unless I pointed it out for close scrutiny.
 
don't use high speed on plastic, or metal even, let it cut thru slowly. if your tool has a speed control otherwise get an external speed control, they sell it. Walthers goo would be a really good glue for this circumstance.
 
You can't beat a good Variac for controlling those stupid Dremels. But get a real Variac from the US not the junk ones from China.

The lowest setting on a Dremel is still way too high for working on plastic. I use a Dremel with a foot switch which is also safer than the way Dremels operate. Most of the time I use a Fordham type electric drill setup. Even a hand twister is better than using a dremel on plastic.
 
When drilling into plastic for handrails or grab irons, I like using a pin vise. It can be slower, but it works for me.
 
G'day all...RE Pin Vise....My good friend and curator at our local museum is also a very fine modeler of aircraft , ships and cars for over 50 years and he ALWAYS uses a pin vise..He does have a Dremel or two but rarely if ever uses it ..I have a Dremel with the hand tool like a pencil that has the collett for tiny drills and I have no trouble but then again I don't do handrails that much..Each to his own , I say...Both are extremely useful...Cheers Rod..
 
G'day all...RE Pin Vise....My good friend and curator at our local museum is also a very fine modeler of aircraft , ships and cars for over 50 years and he ALWAYS uses a pin vise..He does have a Dremel or two but rarely if ever uses it ..I have a Dremel with the hand tool like a pencil that has the collett for tiny drills and I have no trouble but then again I don't do handrails that much..Each to his own , I say...Both are extremely useful...Cheers Rod..

how many cars? no thanx on a pin vise. go get that controller. I might use a too small drill then grind it bigger for a perfect fit.
 



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