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This will be my second attempt at an N scale layout the first I ran for a year on an 80X36 HCD and as expected some mistakes were made. This new design will be L shaped and will be DCC and will run freight and passenger. The bench work is 32x80 across and 32x69 going down. That’s all the room I...

After a year of learning and realizing the mistakes i made with my first layout I've decided to tear down my 80x36 layout and do another. I've begun pulling up my ballasted KATO track and plan to soak them in warm soapy water then cleaning with a tooth brush. Is this ok? The switches I plan to...

Hi Everyone, I need a little help here so that I don't make the same mistake of losing power like on my last layout. Please see attached picture. If it helps I can upload my any rail file so that it is easier. Also any comments or suggestions are greatly appreciated as I am some what of a noob...

Got my hands on a Hornby Minitrix A4 Mallard. What type of passenger car would be appropriate?

So I just won a new one off of fleabay. Anybody have any idea if It can be converted to DCC?

Need a couple of replacements. Anyone know what size it is? or if one can be used from another loco?

I have TCS decoders in my F7A and B units. The decoder in my A unit went so I sent it back to TCS. While it's been away I discovered that MRC makes a pretty simple drop in sound decoder for the KATO F series. I currently have no engines with sound so I'm really interested in hearing what it is...

So I've made the switch to DCC recently. I purchased a Zephyr DCS-51 and a few TCS decoders for my loco's. The first install was on a Kato SD45 which went pretty smoothly and I was able reprogram the address and run it no problem. Next I moved onto my kato RS2 which was a little more involved...

I know I know I should've went with DCC from the start but I was already so much in the hole$$$$ and knew so little about it I thought I'd be able to get by for a little while with plain old DC. Anyway I built a slightly modified version of the KATO Mining Oaks track plan and I am wondering now...

Any suggestions on how to go about hiding the lip at the bottom? I was thinking of cutting and recessing it into the foam a little so It would blend into the landscape seamlessly.

New guy here...so I've begun the tedious task of ballasting my N scale kato unitrack. I'm pretty happy with the results so far but in some areas the outer ties are covered almost completely. Is there any preferred method for cleaning up the ballast that has covered the ties? I read that warm...

So what do you guys think? This is a single train (for now) DC layout where I am able to run the train on every part of the track as long as I have the switches set properly. Is there something I may want to do differently? Everyone's comments suggestions would be greatly appreciated Sent...