Hornby Minitrix N Scale 4-6-2 Mallard Steam Loco DCC?


R

roberto.lozano.37

Member
So I just won a new one off of fleabay. Anybody have any idea if It can be converted to DCC?
 

Attachments

  • $_57.jpg
    $_57.jpg
    104.3 KB · Views: 270
Hard to tell w/o looking under the hood. A couple steamers I was able to stuff a DCC into the cab area, if its not filled up already. (Painted black makes them almost invisible) Most (not all) tenders offer good space for DCC and some even suitable for sound. I would give a good checkout to see IF its worth converting.
 
I failed miserably twice at the install. I took it to my local shop to have their "expert" install a TCS M1 decoder. It turns out I wasn't isolating the motor properly.
 
I have done several minitrix steamers, but not the one you have. My 0-6-0 steamers mount the motor via metal screws, but the brushes were/are completely isolated. The frame on the 0-6-0 provides one half/side of the power dist system.
 
I just finished adding sound to my made in Japan ConCor 4-6-4 PRR Hudson (nice green). I had already converted it to DCC using a Digitrax DN135. The DN135 & newer DN136 use the same plug in and the new Sdn136 as well. All I had to do was make a sound port in the tender floor and mount for the speaker. As far as wiring it was a simple unplug the DN135 and plug-in a SDN136. The 'S'dn denotes a sound decoder. The loco is over 25yrs old and pre DCC era. Its a great runner, probably made by Kato. The DCC sound unit, SDN136 is a bit longer and has a plug in at both ends. The main plug is the same as non-sound decoders, The other end adds another (smaller) plug-in for the cap and speaker wires.
 
BTW the frame on some Minitrix steamers are done like cars, the metal body is one side of the electrical power distribution system.

The smallest tightest DCC conversion I have done is N scale Plymouth industrial switchers. I even added fiber optic to allow both front and rear lights. I do cheat a little though, I scrap out the guts and use Kato (modified) powered chassis, same one I use for Model Power trollies.
 
I did a loco similar to that, same inards/guts, also minitrix. The brushes spring is nasty. Not easy to re-install brushes if they come out. The clear plastic sleeve/tube on one end of the spring is critical! W/O it your motor is SHORTED out. I moved the sleeve toward the center loop, away from the heat while soldering to the brush contact that is isolated. MAKE SURE you re-set the plastic insulating tube back in place by the brush arm. (where is was).

I installed the DCC in the tender. One side of the elec system can be tapped in the tender, that saves one NEW wire between the loco & tender. I added ONE track power wire from the loco and ran 2 (orange/gray) wires from DCC in the tender to loco motor. I did NOT wire the headlight to DCC, I left it connected to track power, saved on wires between loco and tender. Even if I had made it DCC controllable I would just leave it on anyway.

BOTTOM LINE, it CAN be done. (just take time, care and patience.)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.



Back
Top