railBuilderDhd
Active Member
I have 2 power supplies I plan to use for my layout lighting. I guess the second one will be used fro bench test power.
Dave
Dave
Stupid question, here, but I reload lead bullets and and am moderately cautious about working with the stuff: are you talking about *real* powdered lead? If so, I wouldn't go anywhere near it.In a past life, several years ago, I repaired and customized golf club. I used several products that I think would be of interest to model railroaders. The first is powered lead. I would mix this with epoxy glue and add it to the club to increase club head weight. I think this would be a useful tool to those wishing to increase a piece of rolling stock to NMRA standards. Mix the epoxy and add an amount of powered lead to the mix and it can be placed in unobtrusive locations to bring the weight up to spec. I also used a product called high density lead tape to increase the club head weight. Comes in rolls, has an adhesive back, and can be added where needed. Both are available at golf club repair/custom shops. A one pound bottle of powered lead runs about $10, a roll of lead tape 1/2"x75" can be had for about $8.
Stupid question, here, but I reload lead bullets and and am moderately cautious about working with the stuff: are you talking about *real* powdered lead? If so, I wouldn't go anywhere near it.
Thanks Mark, I do have some black acrylic art paint, which is a very intense black. Was a bit concerned of just how the actual wood veneer (which is what they really are) decks would react to the possibility of water expanding it and warping if applied to just one side. I could have tried it out on a couple of the stirrer sticks I use, I suppose, but didn't think of it, truth be told. I will have to experiment with both and then kick myself, if your method works as well, or better, for having indulged the price of the ink. It is expensive for sure.Toot, I have achieved the same results using black acrylic paint thinned down with water. I thin to a consistency that is mostly water in a acrylic paint bottle and add 10-20 drops of black paint. The only thing better about my way is I might be using products already on-hand to make it with, although I do have 70% Isopropyl Alcohol on hand, I don't need to buy India Ink. I also do the same with this water/Acrylic mix to age wood, similar to the Ink/Alcohol mixture. However, I would think that many modelers already have the Ink/Alcohol mixture on hand for aging wood. However, if you don't, my way is another option.
Thanks Mark, I do have some black acrylic art paint, which is a very intense black. Was a bit concerned of just how the actual wood veneer (which is what they really are) decks would react to the possibility of water expanding it and warping if applied to just one side. I could have tried it out on a couple of the stirrer sticks I use, I suppose, but didn't think of it, truth be told. I will have to experiment with both and then kick myself, if your method works as well, or better, for having indulged the price of the ink. It is expensive for sure.
TOOT -- I have stained many a piece of wood with no side effects by using a mixture of leather dye and denatured alcohol. Mix to the depth of color you want - start light and add dye until you get the color you want. In the alcohol solution it will keep forever. I guess that plain alcohol will work, but I just used the denatured kind. I used to stain thousands of ties for the O club - black, brown, grey - dump em out on newspaper; they would not stick to the paper or to each other.
This is the brand I used:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fiebings-L...:waYAAOSw5WVbf35r:sc:USPSPriority!92592!US!-1