post your model RR tips........

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max diyer

Active Member
Everyone has had something roll off their bench and onto the floor. My fix for this is a "catch-all" drawer. When I sit down at the bench, I pull this drawer out and against me. It catches the majority of evasive tools & parts ( except maybe Kadee coupler springs, which go flying over your shoulder ).
I used 1x - 2" high to make the drawer frame and 3/16" hardboard for the drawer bottom. I screwed a couple of 1x cleats ( redneck drawer slides ) to the bench sides, that the drawer sits on.

And made a tool holder, out of hardboard and a large rubber gasket, and screwed it to the drawer. It works well for holding a flex shaft, soldering pencil, etc.

This drawer over the years has literally caught hundreds of tools and parts, saving me from crawling on the floor.

IMG_2179.JPG
 
Sherrel
Thanks.
Everyone that see's it, says it's a big mess. And I'll tell them, "it might be a mess to you, but it's my mess and I know where everything is. I think it looks great." :)
 

Sirfoldalot

Plucked Tailfeathers
Staff member
JIM: OUR workbenches run a very close race. Mine is covered with everything I own EXCEPT model RR stuff. I have cleaned it off several times to get back to model work - and then get distracted and it fills up with everything else.
I got a picture somewhere?
 

trailrider

Well-Known Member
"A clean desk/workbench/mancave is the sign of a sick mind!" :p My work bench doesn't look quite that bad...because the mess is spread out over my other work bench, desks and computer table, in several rooms! :eek:
 
Sherrel - Definitely post a pic!
My bench isn't MRR dedicated either. I always have 3 or 4 different projects on-going. It just so happened, when I took this pic, I was doing maintenance on the loco.
 
"A clean desk/workbench/mancave is the sign of a sick mind!" :p My work bench doesn't look quite that bad...because the mess is spread out over my other work bench, desks and computer table, in several rooms! :eek:
That's one way to put it. ;):)
I would really like to see a pic of your benches!
I'm steering this thread off-topic. There is a thread in General Discussions / Show Your Work Area. So post the pics there. I'll be looking for it!
 

MHinLA

Active Member
THOSE SHARP BLACK DRYWALL-SCREW POINTS sticking out under plywood/sub-roadbed easy cure..
If you've employed these kind of screws, it's next to impossible to cut away their protruding points. And if you have't yet, you will at sometime scratch your hand or arm on them reaching in to wiring or to, say, deal with a derailment under bench. And man, does it smart and bleed ! I did that too many times !...
Simply do this: Take plastic tubing (what, 1/16" inside diameter?), slice off short pieces longer than the screw tips. Then, of course, merely twist them onto the threads..So easy, so cheap, so soothing ! No more lacerations ....M
 
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Good idea MHinLA:

On my last layout I was too cheap to buy new drywall screws and used what I had they were too long and did a lot of damage to my hands and arms.

The cure was the Dremel tool with a cut of wheel and that solved the problem in several areas.

Greg
 
I have several areas odf rather steep areas of terrain and need to attach ground foam from long distance from the font fascia of the layout. I used contact cement from the Dollar Store at $1 a tube and coated the surface enough to attach the ground foam to the incline.

The $1 a tube contact cement is cheap and I purchase usually all the tubes they have on the shelve. Replaces Walthers' GOO in many applications.

It's also handy for attaching ground foam to the base of structures to plant them in to the landscape.

Greg
 

MHinLA

Active Member
Good idea MHinLA:

On my last layout I was too cheap to buy new drywall screws and used what I had they were too long and did a lot of damage to my hands and arms.

The cure was the Dremel tool with a cut of wheel and that solved the problem in several areas.

Greg
I had a friend come by with his disc cutter (maybe was a Dremel ) and proceeded to cut a screw-point off. After a full 30 sec. and lots of sparks flying, the screw hardly changed ! So we gave up.. I was still getting lacerations when I envisioned the tubing idea, and tried one. It worked and I had what must have been 20 other screw points done in 20 Minutes !
The reason your job worked is because you hadn't used drywall screws which are steel or steel-like. You were probably cutting long wood screws which I believe are aluminum and way softer than dry wall screws..You actually did the right thing to begin with; not using dry wall screws..M
 

MHinLA

Active Member
Drywall screws? I use 'em all the time. Sharp points? Nope.
https://www.cpomilwaukee.com/factor...h-lock-on-button/milr6148-830,default,pd.html

I bought mine new.
You probably used the right length screws; that they don't protrude from under anything. But many of us used 1" or 1.5" length which will protrude. My tip is aimed at we who misjudged length needed, and that black drywall screws being very tough to cut can instead get a simple protective sleeve over them within seconds, per each..M, Los Angeles
 
I place jars of paint in my pockets when I know I need to use that paint and carry it around for a while and the paint gets mixed without any effort. I had a jar of tru-color Grimy Black in my pocket for two days and it will be ready to use tomorrow.

Greg
 





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