Running Bear's Coffee Shop LXX


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Sherrel - I have no plastic wheels on any of my freight equipment. Years ago when I started building the layout, I was also cranking out a bunch of what had started as undecorated freight cars, custom painting them, adding Kadee couplers and lastly, wither replacing the wheels with Kadee wheels or replacing the entire truck with Kadee sprung trucks. Back then, Kadee was about the only company offering metal wheels at a reasonable price. In recent years other manufacturers are now offering them. I like the Intermountain metal wheel and always keep some around as I picked them up in bulk packs. Metal wheels make a world of difference. The cars roll a lot more freely and I really like the clickity clack when the wheels go over turnouts or rail joints.

Garry - Sweet photo. You are moving right along.

The skies opened up a while ago and now there;s all sorts of white crap all over the place.
 
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Good Morning everyone....

I too have been replacing the plastic wheels on my rolling stock. It does make a difference in the way the cars roll and like Chet, I like the sound of the metal wheels on the rails.

I built my bench work out of 1x4 clear pine boards and a generous amount of wood screws. (Wood screws have a courser thread than common drywall screws.) The cookie cutter plywood sub-roadbed is joined where the pieces of plywood meet with extended plywood plates that are screwed and glued together to prevent movement and expansion. The frame work was constructed in sections for easy of assemble and then screwed to the walls 2x4 studs and used 2x2 wood legs along the front of the layout. During construction, I could sit or stand on the layout with no problems.

Lunch and then more trains today. Yesterday, all day in the layout room. Fine tuning the locomotives that will be running on X-mas Eve for visitors.

Did break off a window shade on my BNSF G-38. Glued it back on and hope it stays. It seems I always do some damage to either rolling stock or a locomotive, no matter how careful I try to work.

Two more locomotives to go and some more layout cleaning. I been running them after cleaning for several hours.

That's all folks.

Greg
 
Sherrel - Regarding wheels: Any metal wheelsets are better than the plastic ones. I have four or more different types and there are a lot more than that. My favorites were the original P2K before Walther's bought out LifeLike. They looked great but the ones that Walther's makes now which are simply called Proto do not look very good. They are extremely shiny, not weathered like P2K or many others. I currently use either Kadee or Intermountain. Kadee's are less expensive and have a plastic axle. Intermountain's have a metal axle and are insulated. Both are weathered or blackened to some extent. I have read that using a metal axle in plastic sideframes is better than plastic/plastic, but I cannot discern any difference between the two. I am not sure who supplies Athearn axles in their RTR freight cars, but they also run well, although they are shiny like the Walther's ones. I have not used any Bowser, Jaybees or Reboxx which I have also read good things about, so I cannot comment. Jaybee and Reboxx both offer shorter axle lengths for specialized applications. Others might but I am not aware of them. One key to using any wheelset whether metal or plastic, is to use a "truck tuner" on the trucks. I cannot stress how important this is. I use the MicroMark one. The Reboxx one is shorter and harder to use...you have to squeeze the trucks harder to use it.
Hope that this helps.

Willie
 
Well crap!! There was something specific I was looking for in one of my boxes of stuff.
I've completely forgotten what exactly but at least I did manage to empty seven of them.

Edit: I should have known this was going to happen. I'm clearing off the old desk where I'm going to put books and I've about got it cleared off and lo and behold there is the recoil spring cap for the 1911 right there on top. I thouhgt I heard it bounce over there. However, since I now can only hear out of one ear I wasn't sure.
 
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Eric - I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one with CRS. Can't how many times I would be working down in the train room or on something out in the yard and need something and by the time I get to the house, totally forgot what I needed. banghead_125.gif
 
Eric - I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one with CRS. Can't how many times I would be working down in the train room or on something out in the yard and need something and by the time I get to the house, totally forgot what I needed. View attachment 64231

I found what I was looking for. Sitting in the wide open on the train table.
It was a bag of those little plastic collars used to adjust shelves on one of those metal chrome shelve unit racks like in a commercial kitchen.
 
NOW you guys are giving me tons of useful info - thankyu, thankyu, thankyu!

Willie - Tom Holly uses Reboxx - swears by them. Tks for the tip on the wheel tuner too!
Chet - I had sort of overlooked Intermountain too!

I have made a decision on the gift too! An E-bay and/or Amazon gift cards. That way I can get what I need via using tha Spousal Units "Prime" for the shipping! Looked at many "E shops", but damn if I am gonna pay 7-10 bucks shipping for a 5 dollar item, and with traffic the way it is I would spend big part of the day to look up LHS in the area (if you can call it that)!

Still rounding up additional parts for the F3 project - Getting close though. I now have more invested in "details" than the basic cost of the A/B Units!

Thanks again all!
 
Good afternoon, 'Tie Placers & Spike Drivers',

Hi Flo, Francine, How are you both this Cold Chilly Day? Your keeping it nice and warm here in Jeffrey Running Bears' Dinner. It makes a big difference.

It's very chilly here in my neck of the woods, I had .12 inches of rain and it was still drizzling lightly as I was reading the measurement, so I put the inner tube back in the rain gauge to let it collect what it may.

36°F Mudge Ranch Station Report is about 3,100 ft. elevation, it's slightly cooler & wetter than my location.
12:22 PM PST on December 20, 2017 (GMT -0800) | Updated a few seconds ago
43°F | 27°F
36°F - Feels like 35°F, Mostly Cloudy with a slight drizzle;
Wind is from the WNW at about .5 mph with Gusts too 3 mph;
Humidity is 70% {even though is was drizzling}?
Today is forecast to be Much Cooler than yesterday.


Good morning. 44°, and cloudy.

Sherrel: #148 couplers are my standard. buy 'em in the bulk pack. Much easier to work with.

David: The Cascade Trains are by design a unit, if one derails, they all tend to follow. Acela is similar, in that they are semi permanently coupled, but unlike the Talgo, they ride on normal trucks and are not articulated.


Say Joe: Thanks for the info about the Cascade Train. I rather figured it was something like that especially when only the rear A & B units were left at the rails and even then the B unit was at least partially of the rails. It seems odd that for light weight cars it would require A & B units on both ends which I assume the commuter train had. What are you referring to saying Talgo? I remember that term in relation to the old style of Mantua couplers. I never thought there was a prototype like that. Those were very hard to get uncouppled on HO cars.

I also think having a standard set of passenger trucks under each end of the car makes a lot more sense.

It's interesting what you wrote Sherrel about your using the #148 couplers, I also rather like the more prototypical look of them and am going to have to start trying them when I place my next order with my distributer.


Say Curt: I meant to say thanks for letting me know that your stock pens came from Walthers. I imagine they are a wood kit? I think Life Like also has cattle pens along with some of the Doggies as well. Did Walthers pens have any Doggies included? I'll have to look them up but I'm a long way from getting ready to need or place them except for the measurements.

The other thing about your Old Time Saddle Tank 0-6-0T loco that resembles my 0-4-0 square saddle tank loco' is the fact it doesn't have a front coupler either. I made a front draw bar that attaches and pivots in the top center of the frame just behind where the cow catcher would attach. I just used some heavy brass stock that would stand the gaff of pushing and pulling and bent it into a drop style bar and attached a coupler to it with a #80 bolt that I taped the brass bar to hold. It looks cute as heck to see both Loco' double headed or the one with the drawbar used a a mid train helper climbing a grade or moving a load along.
Both Life Like Loco's are fairly well speed matched so they run great together.

If I can figure out how to get pics and video posted on Flicker so I can post them on the forum I show something.


Hope all have a good day.
 
Garry - that is a great photo. Nice work!
I love the "Doorway Effect" video. Bound to be some truth to it, especially for rr modelers?!
 
Believe it or not I actually got a lot of stuff stashed so you can ALMOST see the train table.
And did 2 loads of laundry to boot.
Another day like today and I'll trains running again.
Right now my back hurts.
Got all that done and no beers in sight.
E.
 
BBwells .... Not sure if I've seen you here in the Coffee Shop before. ..... Your video is interesting how it explains a theory about "CRS".

Bruce, Sherrel, Chet, and Johnny ... Thanks for commenting about my scenery project.

Johnny .... You must have passed through a doorway and forgot it was BBwells who posted the video. LOL

Eric .... Sounds like you are making progress going through your stuff.
 
I've been here a few times but mainly just read. Still trying to find when you guys were talking about LED replacements for fluorescent tube lights.
 
I've been here a few times but mainly just read. Still trying to find when you guys were talking about LED replacements for fluorescent tube lights.
The place I work has done this. Aside from the up-front cost, it seems to be going well. No more burned-out tubes, and there should be much less fading.
 
I've been here a few times but mainly just read. Still trying to find when you guys were talking about LED replacements for fluorescent tube lights.

BBwells ... I commented a few months ago I replaced 4’ fluorescent shop lights with 4’ LED Shop lights, and I am pleased with the change . It seems brighter and there is no flickering . Mine were purchased at a home improvement store .
 
Yay!!! You can actually the table now!!
All the power packs are just in a pile in the corner however.
But, best I can tell all the track feeders are still in place to it wouldn't take me any time at all to hookup them.
Maybe tomorrow. I really need to use a carpet shampooer in there. I think the cat opted for the train room under the table while I was gone.
Here is some pics:
room-105.jpgroom-104.jpgroom-103.jpgroom-102.jpgroom-101.jpg
 
I've been here a few times but mainly just read. Still trying to find when you guys were talking about LED replacements for fluorescent tube lights.
BBwells I lived on the central coast of Ca for 50 years. Have you be there long?
 
Eric - nice to see you making headway. You should have your trains running soon, if you can find them. [emoji16]

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