WPF for 19-26 March 2010


NYSW F45 said:
That NYSW F45 doesn't belong in a dead line!!!!!
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Here's another one that going to brake your heart. I'm not finished with it yet. Still needs weathering and number boards. MRL #365

365.jpg


What I really like about his unit is that it first was a NP unit that I am sure ran these rails. Then became a BN unit upon the merger. Sold to NYSW and then sold to MRL. This engine has made a full circle. I only wish that I could put a real NP cab on it. Not that I can't because there are the parts out there but because I'm not sure I want to go through the hassle.
 
Jon NFL said:
Ray - walls are looking good. What scale are you modeling. Going to super-detail the interior?
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Thanks Jon. HO scale. I am waiting for some shop machinery (lathe & other equipment) to arrive. I will detail the interior of the Engine house with workbenches, winch, piles of parts, etc. the machine shop will have the stuff on order. I'm hoping this will end up "good enough" to use for a scratchbuild for the NMRA Structures Certificate.

On the depth issue, if your camera has a manual mode, stop down the F-stop as far as possible (Larger number is smaller). I can, depending on the lense and setting of the lens, get as much as f-32 which is a small pinhole. It will give you a deeper field of focus. Also you get better focus ahead of what you are shooting than behind so focusing just slightly behind the object can give better focus of the object and the area ahead of it. Bob Boudreau has a great site on photography which may be of help to you and others. it is here.
 
zgardner18 said:
Here's another one that going to brake your heart. I'm not finished with it yet. Still needs weathering and number boards. MRL #365

365.jpg


What I really like about his unit is that it first was a NP unit that I am sure ran these rails. Then became a BN unit upon the merger. Sold to NYSW and then sold to MRL. This engine has made a full circle. I only wish that I could put a real NP cab on it. Not that I can't because there are the parts out there but because I'm not sure I want to go through the hassle.
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:mad::mad::mad:
 
rhoward said:
. . . I'm hoping this will end up "good enough" to use for a scratchbuild for the NMRA Structures Certificate.[/URL].
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I've toyed with starting the MMR journey and just sent an email to the AP director seeking guidance. Haven't heard anything back. What has your experience been - any suggestions?
 
Jon NFL said:
I've toyed with starting the MMR journey and just sent an email to the AP director seeking guidance. Haven't heard anything back. What has your experience been - any suggestions?
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Jon, that's great! Good luck on your journey. One thing I will guarantee is that you will learn a lot and expand your modeling abilities. I am exceedingly fortunate to have as my AP director in the division Harold Russell, MMR. He is great to work with and has become a strong mentor for me to continue earning the certificates. If you don't know, Harold has authored hundreds of articles on scratch building items. You can see one of his articles on p26 of the February Scale Rails (Erie Railroad Loading Ramp), and another in the April Issue of MR Magazine, p.67 (A manual signal for a crossing). He has been fair, amiable, and very much a help to me.

I hope you will have the same type of person in your district to mentor you along the way. Remember it is the Journey more than the destination that makes the NMRA AP program so useful. I have earned the Electric and the Scenery Certificates so far. Each leads into new areas I thought I would never try! Currently I am starting to get things in place for the Civil Certificate, Volunteer Certificate, and Association Official.

Suggestions? Don't make too much of the requirements, ie: don't read into them things that aren't there. On line at the NMRA site there are a lot of great suggestions on how to complete requirements and what the "Judges" are looking for. When in doubt ask, and join this group (For NMRA members only) http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NMRAAP/ It is a question and answer group formed just a few weeks ago to deal with the needs of us who are in the program.

Good luck!
 
The rails are close, now you have to figure out how to clean up and/or paint the ties. It takes longer but this is why many use a thin brush or a rail pain applicator to do rails.
 
Yah, I should have mentioned that. I am going to go back and paint over the ties with paint pens. I am going to randomly switch from Rail Brown to Rail Tie Brown. I did a test patch and I thought it looked good. I am going to do the ties that are in the loading/unloading shed first. That way if it is hidious no no one will see it :)
 
bkpigs said:
I am going to go back and paint over the ties with paint pens. I am going to randomly switch from Rail Brown to Rail Tie Brown. I did a test patch and I thought it looked good. I am going to do the ties that are in the loading/unloading shed first. That way if it is hidious no no one will see it :)
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Ah-ha. That's one way to do it. I use the same colors but in latex colors matched from the pens as enamel paints disagree with me. Your idea will work though the pens are a bit on the expensive side for my very limited budget.
 
One thing I realized after I posted last night is that my paint pens are enamel. An the ties are all covered in acrylic. Guess I am going to have to mix up my own colors. Ohh well, it should add more personal touch :)
 
bkpigs said:
One thing I realized after I posted last night is that my paint pens are enamel. An the ties are all covered in acrylic. Guess I am going to have to mix up my own colors. Ohh well, it should add more personal touch :)
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I used those same type pens to make color swatches which I took to the local Lowe's store and had them match the colors in latex. It can also be done in acrylic and you'll have all the paint you need for a long while for a fraction of the cost of the model paints. They do however require a bit more care in use for an airbrush in that the paint must be filtered first. Not hard but it takes a little time.
 
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