What is going on with this DCC loco?


Sweet-Chuck

Sweet-Chuck

Member
Alright...I have a BLI Paragon 2 loco(dcc) that decided it doesn't like me anymore.

A couple of weeks ago it ran the tracks just fine. Then, a few days later it ran good, but stopped and started in a few spots. A day or two after that it ran, the stopped altogether but after a gentle push or two it would travel down the track until it would stop again.
Now it barely makes it more than 18-24 inches and it stops. I have to push it a considerable distance before it runs on its own power again, but it stops almost immediately. It is beyond aggravating.:mad:

I have used canned air to clean the trucks out, and used a bit of goo gone on the end of a toothpick to scrape a little crud off the wheels. I also did this little procedure to a Bachman dcc GP unit.

wth?

I am pretty confident the connections are good because the Bachman unit runs clean, consistent, and smoothly all around the track (except for an incline area)

Also, I disconnected the dcc power supply and connected an old analog unit and ran a standard DC locomotive. It too ran consistent all around the layout.

Any ideas or suggestions at what I should be looking at to correct this?

Thanks!!
 
Ummm, there are quite a few Paragon 2 locos. Can you tell us which model in particular?
If it's a steam loco, check the plug that runs from the tender to the loco. If it isn't seated right, you will get the conditions as you described.
 
Ken that is too funny that you replied...I was just looking at the recent pages of your progress on the D&J. That is amazing the work you have done.

And geez I really messed up. The loco that's giving me problems is an Alco diesel Proto 2000. I haven't gotten the bli out yet not sure why i typed all that nonsense!
 
Thanks for the comments. Yeah, I do take a break from time to time.
Ok, Proto 2000 diesel. I think they might use wipers on the back side of the wheels. You might check that for build up of crud. If that isn't where the pickup is, then it will be in the axels where they meet the bearings in the trucks. I bit more of a problem to get to, but with the right size tools, you can do it. If you recently oiled the bearings, it may have broke loose some built up crud in there that needs to come out.

Good video post there Tootin. I move the paper towel sideways while the wheels wipe off so that fresh clean towel is continues to wipe the wheels. Not much different than what you're doing but gives me a better feeling that the wheels are getting clean.
 
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Sweet-Chuck said:
A couple of weeks ago it ran the tracks just fine. Then, a few days later it ran good, but stopped and started in a few spots. A day or two after that it ran, the stopped altogether but after a gentle push or two it would travel down the track until it would stop again.
Now it barely makes it more than 18-24 inches and it stops. I have to push it a considerable distance before it runs on its own power again, but it stops almost immediately.
Click to expand...
Dirty wheels/contacts would be an easy fix but it sounds like there is a broken wire inside somewhere to me.
 
When I first began test runs on my new layout, after finishing track laying and wiring, I experienced the same. Locos started out running fine but eventually accumulated enough gunk on the wheels to cause problems.

I purchased a couple of track cleaning cars and cleaned the entire layout a few times.

After cleaning the wheels of the gunked up locos all was fine.

http://www.tonystrains.com/technews/clean_machine.htm

I now run the cleaning cars once a month to keep things clean.
 
Two questions if I may: (both related to the OP I think)

1. Obviously you don't push down on the loco's when cleaning the wheels, as described, but doesn't the paper towel tend to tear being soaked in WD40 with metal (or plastic) wheels running over it?

2. fcwilt, can you tell us what Track Cleaning Cars you bought please. I have one that doesn't seem to be doing the job all that well, no matter how many times I run it.
 
You'll have to watch more paper towel ads Tony, strength is always stressed as a main virtue, that and absorbency. You're actually holding the loco up slightly to allow the wheels to rotate.
 
I included a link to the first cleaning cars I bought.

http://www.tonystrains.com/technews/clean_machine.htm

I actually have two other types as well:

https://www.mnpinc.com/ho_scale.htm

http://www.aztectrains.com/HO_1.html


I'm still experimenting to see if one cleans significantly better then the other.


I like the CMX cars because they are all metal and can use just about any cleaning fluid without damage to the car. I have been using lacquer thinner which really cleans well. The downside is, if it leaks, it dissolves the blue foam, which I used as a base for laying track.

I like the MNP cars because I can use them for a quick clean and "polish" - no cleaning fluid is needed.

I equipped the Aztex cars with the DCC controlled valve which in theory should make them a little easier to use. With the CMX car you have to open/close the filler and valve manually and if you forget to close them AND the car still has fluid you can end up with quite mess - ask me how I know.

Unlike the all metal CMX car, the Aztex car has a plastic tank and you have to use a cleaning fluid that won't harm the plastic. The maker of the Aztec will not tell you, for liability reasons, that he uses alcohol when cleaning his layout. While alcohol may not clean as well as the lacquer thinner it also doesn't dissolve blue foam.


Hope that helps.
 
tootnkumin said:
You'll have to watch more paper towel ads Tony, strength is always stressed as a main virtue, that and absorbency. You're actually holding the loco up slightly to allow the wheels to rotate.
Click to expand...

And you believe those adverts? lol All of my trains and cars and rolling stock need their wheels cleaned or replaced, actually on a few, I need to replace the entire truck assembly. Maybe giving the wheels a darn good clean might save me having to do either. Thanks.

fcwilt said:
I included a link to the first cleaning cars I bought.

http://www.tonystrains.com/technews/clean_machine.htm

I actually have two other types as well:

https://www.mnpinc.com/ho_scale.htm

http://www.aztectrains.com/HO_1.html


I'm still experimenting to see if one cleans significantly better then the other.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the links, I really do need a good cleaning car for week to week maintenance. My main maintenance is going over the rails, by hand, with a cotton glove soaked in alcohol.

I like the CMX cars because they are all metal and can use just about any cleaning fluid without damage to the car. I have been using lacquer thinner which really cleans well. The downside is, if it leaks, it dissolves the blue foam, which I used as a base for laying track.

I like the MNP cars because I can use them for a quick clean and "polish" - no cleaning fluid is needed.
Click to expand...

The CMX cars sound like what I might need, despite the extra care and needed using lacquer thinner instead of alcohol. I do agree that thinners will clean better than alcohol so; therefore, the thinner used cars should (in theory) clean better than the alcohol loaded ones.

I equipped the Aztex cars with the DCC controlled valve which in theory should make them a little easier to use. With the CMX car you have to open/close the filler and valve manually and if you forget to close them AND the car still has fluid you can end up with quite mess - ask me how I know.

Unlike the all metal CMX car, the Aztex car has a plastic tank and you have to use a cleaning fluid that won't harm the plastic. The maker of the Aztec will not tell you, for liability reasons, that he uses alcohol when cleaning his layout. While alcohol may not clean as well as the lacquer thinner it also doesn't dissolve blue foam.


Hope that helps.
Click to expand...

This helps me a lot and am heading of to take a look at your links and (most likely) purchase one of the cars. Any idea where I can by one of the CMX Cars? Looked at the link but there doesn't seem to be anywhere on it that allows you to purchase it.
 
For cleaning wheels, I simply cut a paper towel or napkin into strips narrow enough that one truck is always off the paper. I place the towel over the track, and I then add some Goo Gone to the area of the towel that is on top of the rails. I run the engine or cars over the towel until it is black with the crud, then move the towel around to a clean spot. I repeat until the towel remains clean, then use a dry towel to run the engine or cars over to soak up the excess Goo Gone that is on the wheels. I usually only have to do this to a piece of equipment after I run it for a while on our club layout.
 
Well, after closer examination I wonder if some thread has gotten wound up in the gear. I used tweezers and pulled some strands off the shaft where it goes in to the gear housing. Any ideas on how to open this gear box?
20141115_091723.jpg20141115_091744.jpg
 
That depends ... do you want to be able to use it again? :)

Wish I could help but like you, I don't have a clue, at least not a way to ensure that it is reusable.
 
wombat....those are the very thoughts I was having as I was inspecting it from every angle, even trying to pry and pull it apart. I figured I could get it apart....but getting it back together so it stays together...........?
 
wombat457 said:
Thanks mate, no I didn't notice it, sorry.

Ordered :)
Click to expand...

I hope you like it.

One thing to note - being solid metal the car is quite heavy - be sure you have a loco with good hauling capabilities to push/pull it.

I push mine around at a slow speed, the idea being that the car will clean the track ahead of the loco, preventing the dirty track from interfering with the loco electrical pickup.

Let us know how it works for you.
 
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