Turntable issues


My Atlas 90 turntable is giving me fits. Aside from tossing it out (which may happen), I wonder if anyone has encountered and solved this problem.

As it revolves, it works great until it hits a spot where the gears appear to be slipping. The bridge either starts jerking or stops completely (to teethe grinding sound of gears slipping/jamming). From what I can determine, the larger gear wheel on the bridge shaft is slightly askew and at a certain point it fails to properly engage with the small gear on the motor shaft. I've gone to great lengths to make sure the TT is level and properly supported from below (not from the lip of the bowl) but it's still doing this.

I know, I know... I should have purchased a better quality TT in the first place - in my opinion this is a piece of junk. That aside, anyone solved this issue?

If I decide to frisbee this one out the window, any recommendations for quality, hassle free turntables?
Dan
 
Did you call walthers? I nver had a problem with walthers stuff but I read in forums that their service is good.

Paul
 
Is that the $36.95 one or the $499.00 one? If it's the cheap one it doesn't make a good frisbee because I tried that.
 
Turntable Issues - Part 2

In my earlier post I incorrectly stated the turntable was the Atlas 90'. It's actually the HO Walthers Cornerstone 90' TT. It's the $40 kit version, not the $280 prebuilt one. I've added the #933-1050 low speed motorizing kit and run the motor with a Lokpilot DCCV2.0 decoder. The decoder works great, it's the gears on the turntable and motor that are not working.

While I'm ranting, another issue I have with it is that the bridge itself is unstable. As soon as a locomotive begins to move onto it, the weight of the loco makes the entire bridge tilt. Looks unrealistic as heck and doesn't aid in effective operation.

Today I spent at least 8 hours attempting to get this thing to operate properly. All without success. As it rotates, it runs jerkily and eventually hits a spot where it just stops while the gears grind away. I'm sure some of you are thinking I've put it together incorrectly or some such thing but I'm not new to modeling and have gone over every aspect of this thing to try and determine what is wrong (other than it's a piece of junk). The only thing I haven't tried I installing a new motor but this one is practically brand new so that shouldn't be an issue.

If I decide to give Walthers another chance, is the expensive, prebuilt one going to operate well? Any feedback on this unit would be appreciated.

Recommendations for any other type?

All I know is that the one I lovingly built (it LOOKS great) seems destined for the trash can. At one point today I came to within inches of ripping it out of it's hole and stomping it to pieces. Just the fact that it's connected to a nicely functioning decoder saved it.

Dan
 
I told you in your first post it doesn't work as a Frisbee & it does fill up a small trash can very well. BTW, you need to add to the original post & not make a new thread each time for the same question.
 
Stop all work on it now, chalk it up to a bad experience, and save your pennies for a real turntable. Sorry to be absolute, but I wasted lots of time with that kit, and actually modified it to be 60% usable (it was very smooth in a 90 deg arc, and that was all I needed). Rotate the bride another three degrees and the chattering and scraping started. I never could solve that issue. The wobbling bridge can be cured by placing 1/8" thick 1/2" X 1.5" styrene strips on either side of the main shaft between the pit bottom and the big washer. That shim tightened up the bridge nicely and I eliminated the wobbles that way.

Honestly, if you are determined, you'll figure out how to get it usable. But I could only stand so much frustration before my credit card miraculously appeared one time while I was talking to my LHS owner who mentioned he hadn't sold any of his four Built-Ups yet. He cut me a deal hard to pass up.

Good luck. BTW, you can keep grinding down the side of the pit inside wall to see if that frees your chattering gear. Also, much of your chattering problem may go away, or get worse, when you shim up the shaft as I described.
 
Larry and All,

Thanks for the feedback. I'm pretty new to this forum stuff so I apologize for any posting faux pas I may have committed.

Anyway, I'm moving on to getting a replacement turntable. I'm feeling a little burned by Walthers right now but I have heard some pretty fair things about their prebuilt motorized TT (runs around $280). Anyone had experience with it?

I've also read about Diamond Scale, CMR, Bowser, and AAA (expensive at $500+). All seem to have their pros and cons.

Would welcome any feedback on these units or any others you may own or know of.

Thanks!
Dan
 
Selector,

Sounds like I went almost the exact same route as you and am ending up at the same conclusion.

As you can tell by my previous post (which I was writing when yours came in) I have given this up as a lost cause. It looks great but runs like junk. It runs like a dream for about 340 degrees and then "wham"!

I placed a thin nylon washer on the shaft between the dish and the metal washer to eliminate the wobble but that forced the gear wheel down to where it was hitting the wipe. Moved the nylon washer to underneath the metal washer but the gear issue remained.

I also cut smaller nylon washers in 1/4 sections and glued them at the end of the bridge between the "wheels" in order to try and prevent the tipping of the bridge when a loco moved on to it. THAT seemed to work. However, the gear issue remained and finally defeated me.

Sounds like you went with the Walthers pre built unit. Is it the 90'? Are you satisfied with it? I've heard pros and cons but many of the negatives seem to have been written a while back and from what I can understand it was redesigned not too long ago. The price I'm seeing online is around $280. I'm feeling a bit burned by Walthers at the moment but if their built up is a decent unit, the price is reasonable. I'm not into paying $500 or more for a AAA model (well, I am, but the wife isn't).

Appreciate your feedback.

Dan
 
Glad you posted this questions. The Bowser is one I'm still considering.

I have heard nothing but positive things about the 90' Walthers Built Up but part of me wants to boycott them for selling that piece of junk they call their 90' turntable kit.

AAA gets good reviews but is pricey at $500+. CMR and Diamond Scale appear to be somewhat difficult to assemble. Several owners have said they'd not put themselves through the hassles of building one again. On the other hand, some owners like them. Choose your poison.

The price of the Bowser isn't all that much more than the Walthers and when I see metal instead of plastic, I think higher quality. However, I'm always a bit concerned when I see a typo in the company's website - where it states; "Track and are NOT included." Not only is there a typo but what is that other item that isn't included?

Do like the fact you can add the indexing kit in later if you wish and it isn't that costly - $78. Shipping for the TT isn't cheap at $18 dollars but that indicates it's a heavy bugger and that they (hopefully) pack it well.

Very interested in hearing from owners of this product. Hopefully sooner than later since my entire project has stalled since replacing the TT became an issue.

Dan

Dan
 
I have to ask: in a couple of the posts above others have asked if you contacted Walthers about this issue but I did not see a response.... did you contact Walthers and if so what did they say about the issue?... if I missed your response please let me know as I am interested in hearing how/if they handled this for you.
 
My Atlas 90 turntable is giving me fits. Aside from tossing it out (which may happen), I wonder if anyone has encountered and solved this problem.

As it revolves, it works great until it hits a spot where the gears appear to be slipping. The bridge either starts jerking or stops completely (to teethe grinding sound of gears slipping/jamming). From what I can determine, the larger gear wheel on the bridge shaft is slightly askew and at a certain point it fails to properly engage with the small gear on the motor shaft. I've gone to great lengths to make sure the TT is level and properly supported from below (not from the lip of the bowl) but it's still doing this.

I know, I know... I should have purchased a better quality TT in the first place - in my opinion this is a piece of junk. That aside, anyone solved this issue?

If I decide to frisbee this one out the window, any recommendations for quality, hassle free turntables?
Dan

Get yourself a Diamond Scale TT

http://www.diamond-scale.com/products__turntables.htm

You won't be disappointed.

-G-
 
G -
Thanks for youy feedback.
Looked into Diamond Scale. Look great but I've read they can be a real pain to put together. Some indicated they are a "Fussy" product. I know that can be a relative term but did you think they were difficult? I'm not afraid of difficult it's just that I'm presently falling behind on my modeling to do list and don't want to have to dedicate a month (or more) to building another turntable.
Dan
 
Contacted Walthers

I contacted Walthers about the issues had with their 90' turntable kit (the $40 kit not the $280 Built-Up).

Randy in parts/warrantee said he has NEVER had a customer complaint about this product. I find that a little hard to believe but it may be somewhat true in that most people just chalk it up as a lost cause, dump it, and move on. If Walthers never hears from the consumers, how are they to know?

On the other hand, he did let slip that they know it doesn't work well and can be difficult to assemble and try to operate. He also indicated that it is designed to be hand operated rather than motorized. My response was that I would agree with him but then why DON'T they sell a hand operating unit for this kit and why DO they sell a motorizing kit?

He then went on to tell me how many products they offer and that they can't be on top of them all. Hmmmmm.... I guess when you're big you don't have to worry about the small stuff.

Anyway, I concluded my conversation with him by saying that they should do everyone a favor and just pull this product from their line. OR, develop and sell a hand operating unit for it.

I encourage everyone who has ever had issues with this product to contact Walthers and share your experience. You can call them direct or
e-mail them. In my case, it's not about the money but about a company selling something they know is crap but not caring that they do.

Dan
 
G -
Thanks for youy feedback.
Looked into Diamond Scale. Look great but I've read they can be a real pain to put together. Some indicated they are a "Fussy" product. I know that can be a relative term but did you think they were difficult? I'm not afraid of difficult it's just that I'm presently falling behind on my modeling to do list and don't want to have to dedicate a month (or more) to building another turntable.
Dan

I put one of their 65' TT's together. It's a bit more in time but I didn't think it was exceedingly difficult. I build lots and lots of scratchbuilt models, RC planes, helicopters and such so it didn't faze me in the least. The hydrocal cast pit had some pinholes and bubbles that required some extra work but I guess that's to be expected when you cast such a large piece. :rolleyes: You need to make sure you glue the ring rail in it's proper place. You have to use CA so take extra care you don't mess up. It's key since the bridge rollers ride the rail and any mis-alignment can be trouble. The good thing is the cast ties in the pit have a notch for index the rail in the proper place.

I opted for the manual crank to turn it. I model narrow gauge and really didn't see the need for powering or indexing. It can be done (powering) and will take a bit more effort to be sure. My TT is right at the edge of the layout and easy to see that I have the rails lined up. If it is farther away then I would consider auto-indexing. The hand crank is simple and well done. the kit come with the universal connector and a self-centering bearing to support the drive shaft.

The bridge is rock solid. It's actually a bit of overkill for my small steam locos that will use it. ;) You have a 3/8" shaft that the bridge turns on plus two bronze oiled bearings which support this shaft. Very stout. No tipping or rocking of the locos while on that. From what I've read most TT shafts only have one bearing. As an engineer I can tell you the more support you can give a rotating shaft, the better.

Yes it was a bit pricey and you have to do assembly with wood, plastic and cast metal but I am quite pleased with it.

-G-
 
I contacted Walthers about the issues had with their 90' turntable kit (the $40 kit not the $280 Built-Up).

Randy in parts/warrantee said he has NEVER had a customer complaint about this product. I find that a little hard to believe but it may be somewhat true in that most people just chalk it up as a lost cause, dump it, and move on. If Walthers never hears from the consumers, how are they to know?

On the other hand, he did let slip that they know it doesn't work well and can be difficult to assemble and try to operate. He also indicated that it is designed to be hand operated rather than motorized. My response was that I would agree with him but then why DON'T they sell a hand operating unit for this kit and why DO they sell a motorizing kit?

He then went on to tell me how many products they offer and that they can't be on top of them all. Hmmmmm.... I guess when you're big you don't have to worry about the small stuff.

Anyway, I concluded my conversation with him by saying that they should do everyone a favor and just pull this product from their line. OR, develop and sell a hand operating unit for it.

I encourage everyone who has ever had issues with this product to contact Walthers and share your experience. You can call them direct or
e-mail them. In my case, it's not about the money but about a company selling something they know is crap but not caring that they do.

Dan

thanks Dan. I have sold a bunch of these presumably because they are so inexpensive. I haven't heard anyone come back yet on the ones we have sold in our little store but I wanted to be prepared. I haven't built one myself but it "appeared" to be a nice looking kit. I wonder if it would be a good starting point for someone to build their own mechanism and just use the walthers pit and bridge details.
 
thanks Dan. I have sold a bunch of these presumably because they are so inexpensive.

That's probably the reason. When I was looking for a TT the Walthers one was the cheapest (it was also waayyyy bigger than I needed :) ) In the end I'm glad I spent extra to get a better TT.

Just goes to show you that you get what you pay for.

-G-
 
All I can say is that you get what you pay for! lol In the case of a turntable and its operation, there is a good reason they are pricey. I have done a couple O scale TT's, the Atlas, the Bowser and the new Ross TT. We go from $200 to $800 to $4000.... yes I said $4000 not 400 ;) They look and operate exactly how you would suspect. Just get the best that you can afford, and if it's only a few dollars to make the next upgrade........SPLURGE! :)
 
Dan, I have read nothing but horror stories on the Walthers 90's turntable kit. I've never talked to one modeler who ever got it to work right. It looks great for a static display but it just isn't well engineered. OTOH, I've seen the 90's built up Walthers turntable and it operates perfectly. I have no idea what the changes in the mechanism are but they are obviously completely different even though they appear to be cosmetically the same. I'd chalk up the $40 to experience, assign it to the junk box, and spring for the built up version.
 
Jim,
I've pretty much heard the same. One modeler on another forum said he'd gotten the kit model to work well for him after much fussing and alterations. I tried going that route and didn't succeed. Bottom line is, you shouldn't have. to. You're right - it looks very nice and would be fine for a diorama but not as a functioning turntable.

As sour as I am on Walthers at the moment, the built up unit is probably the way I'll go. So far I've not heard any complaints about it. Several individuals associated with clubs have said they use it at that level without issue. If a club can be happy with it, it should be fine for my little layout. One big plus for it is it will fit very nicely into the space I'd created for my first one. They both utilize almost the same sized hole. The Bowser is an appealing option but it would require major reworking of my benchwork, scenery, and track to get it to fit into the required place.

Still appreciate any feedback from other modelers - I haven't placed an order yet.
Dan
 



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