Track


P

Photogdad

Guest
Sorry if this has been posted before. I am still drawing out the final track plan for my "L" shaped shelf style layout. My question is, which of all the track companies out there is there a better one over another? I can know I will be using nickel silver and plan on running older (40's-60's era) motive power but keeping with the period rolling stock. Any help would be appreciated
 
Hello! I figured I would put my 2 cents on here. I used to have Bachmann EZ track, and that was great for me and my girlfriend since we were new to the hobby and didnt have a permanent layout. It is decent track, but when we built our first 4x8 we quickly found out we were limited in track geometry, and the realism wasnt the best. So after some researching and talking to some other fellow train modelers, all referred me to Atlas Flex track. It is nickel silver rail (you are right to get nickel silver, steel got to be a pain for us) and comes in 3 foot sections. the possibilities with this track are endless. It bends to just about any configuration and curve you can think of. We are going with Peco turnouts since about everyone was recommending them at the most recent train show we attended, and their quality is very nice if i do say so myself. We were also told that Bachmann Shinohara (sp?) turnouts were good as well. So i hope this helps and happy modeling!!
 
I like Atlas in both N and HO scale.
It comes in diferent codes (rail sizes), has a good selection of switches, curves, and accessories.
I'm pretty sure that's what most will go with on the forum.
 
I used to have a bunch of different code and brands. But since I've been out of modeling for a while, I wondered if there were sertan codes and brands that everyone lukes.

I do plan on using flextrack especially on the longer straightaway as well as in yards. Now for the curves is there a tool out there to help get yhe desired curve you want or do you just have to eye it? The biggest piece I'll run is a SD unit and 4-8-4's and shouldn't need anything bigger than a 26" curve.

Any other thoughts or suggestions will be usefull
 
For the radius question, what I am going to do is draw the radius i want in AutoCad and print it out and use it as a stencil. But not everyone has that program or a big enough printer, so the next thing i suggest is getting 2 pencils, and attaching them together with a string the desired length of the radius of the curve and use it just like you would a compass, and use the line as your stencil. Maybe other people have an easier approach, but I have used that method before and it turned out really well. Hope that helps
 
For HO, I really like the Atlas HO code 83 track.

If you have the space, you could just draw out the curve using a tack and some string? If not, maybe get a piece of sectional curve track and use that to compare to the curve you're making with your flex-track? That's an easy way to "eyeball it" and make sure your curve doesn't go tighter than your minimum desired radius.
 
Photogdad said:
Now for the curves is there a tool out there to help get yhe desired curve you want or do you just have to eye it? The biggest piece I'll run is a SD unit and 4-8-4's and shouldn't need anything bigger than a 26" curve.
Click to expand...

There is a tool called a 'Tracksetta' or else you could just use the old fashioned method (if you know the radius you want to use) of a pencil attached to a piece of string cut to the correct length or a wooden rule with holes drilled for a pencil to sit in at the correct radius...

I think before you start, you really need to decide on what code rail you want - the standard for US modelling is code 83 but this can work out to be quite expensive, I personally model with Peco code 75 which is a bit of a compromise (Rails not too thick/high - cost isn't too great)..

Hope this helps...
 
Thanks for all of the ideas and help. I'm thinking about code 83 and I have a fairly good idea about what to do on my curves. As soon as I get started I'll post my progress. Be looking for my track plan which is to come shortly
 
Cjcrescent said:
Of course Charles, you can do what I've done and handlay all the track!:D
Click to expand...


I have really gave it thought and might do it for some of the layout. Since I'm not doing nothing big, it would be easier
 
I use XTrkCAD4. It has an option that lets you print out your layout on 8.5" X 11" in any size that you choose. For instance, if you wanted to put your layout (or curve) onto two pieces of paper, then the "print" command gives you that option.

This allows one to print out a "scaled drawing i.e. 1-inch = 1-foot, etc." or even a "full scale drawing" of one's layout.

This is the only drawing software that I am familiar with.
 
Photogdad said:
I have really gave it thought and might do it for some of the layout. Since I'm not doing nothing big, it would be easier
Click to expand...

Might I recommend that get a copy of Paul Mallery's book, "Trackwork Handbook for Model Railroaders". It's from Cartsen's Publications. You may have to get it thru Amazon, or some other service as IIRC, its currently out of print.
 
Photogdad said:
I have really gave it thought and might do it for some of the layout. Since I'm not doing nothing big, it would be easier
Click to expand...

The closest I've come to hand laying track is modifying some cheap Italian turnouts to match NMRA standards. I learn't that the check rails seem to be the most important part of the turnout for avoiding derailments. Frogs and point blades aren't as crucial. Handlaying takes time effort and practice, but I'm told it is the best method in the long run. Also it saves a lot of money and you could do whatever geometry you like.


Another point about trackwork in general is that trains like going in straight lines. They don't like going around curves or changes in gradient. Where the track changes dirrection or gradient, there needs to be a smooth transition, especially for big and fast trains. I think those sections are called 'easements'. They should be about the length of your longest item of rolling stock, likely your 4-8-4. Also, when changing between a curve in one dirrection to a curve in the other dirrection, leave a section of straight track the length of the longest item of rolling stock.


I've used Peco and Atlas. Both seem fine to me, at least with old DC operation. I'm looking at Walthers Shinohara code 83 for my planned layout as it has metal frogs with wiring to make them live. It also claims to have more DCC friendly insulation gaps. This should help to minimise stalls on turnouts. Findly, it isn't significantly more expensive than the alternatives.


I'm told that a European brand of flexi track is easier to curve than Atlas or Peco. The name is Tillig. Haven't used it myself, but that is what I've been told.
 
For the most part the track work will be in a straight line with just a curve or two thrown in cause I'm planning a switching layout design. So hand laying the track would be a great idea and this would be the perfect time for me to give it a shot. However for the turnouts, I'm going to stick to pre made ones just for the sake of not having any headaches with laying them by hand.
 
joexdoakes said:
I use XTrkCAD4. It has an option that lets you print out your layout on 8.5" X 11" in any size that you choose. For instance, if you wanted to put your layout (or curve) onto two pieces of paper, then the "print" command gives you that option.

This allows one to print out a "scaled drawing i.e. 1-inch = 1-foot, etc." or even a "full scale drawing" of one's layout.

This is the only drawing software that I am familiar with.
Click to expand...


I think I'm going to stick to drawing the layout by hand. I've tried some of the software out there and it can be a pain in the butt to figure out or you need a library of available track downloaded to the program and can't find it to download. Easier to draw it out by hand in my opinion.
 
Photogdad said:
...So hand laying the track would be a great idea and this would be the perfect time for me to give it a shot.
...
However for the turnouts, I'm going to stick to pre made ones just for the sake of not having any headaches with laying them by hand.
Click to expand...

Full disclosure;

- I have never even attempted to hand lay any track - I know nothing :)
- I have been tempted to give it a try however.......

My understanding, very possibly wrong of course, is the "big win" with DIY *is* the T/O's!.....

"Regular" track, you may as well use flex track.

?? Comments welcome......

Cheers,
Ian
 
Charles:

Here's my 2 cents on handlaying track.

I did hand lay some of my HO track (including a turnout or two) on my first layout 30+ years ago. The track and turnouts functioned fine and looked fine - but took a LOT of time and work to make.

Well I sold or gave away that layout, and a few years later started another using all store-bought track (Atlas nickle silver code 100 flex track, and at the time I bought about 20 Model Power electric turnouts - #4s at $4.50 each - that had nickle silver rails.) I still have, use and reuse this track and these turnouts on this layout.

Why did I change from hand laid to purchased track? The time and work of handlaying was just too much TIME (I would rather run trains than hand lay track) and WORK (I wouldn't enjoy it), and here's another reason: model railroads are REPRESENTATIVE of real trains, so then so what if the spike heads were scale-wise too large and the rail was about a scale 4" too high? I could live with it. Also, the Atlas flex track is very easy to work with and makes laying track seem lightning-fast compared to hand layed.

However, having said all that, if you want hand-layed track - go for it. And laying track by hand might be easier today if you use Fastracks (spelling?) jigs and templates.

Lastly, does hand layed track function better than commercial track? I don't think so because I have an L shaped loop with 22" radius curves, Atlas 100 flex track, that I sometimes run my 65-car train on backwards (shoving with two engines) with zero derailments. [Why do this? Just because I can. :) ] As info, of the cars on the train 85% have plastic wheels and the rest have metal wheels. And when running backwards the train goes facing-point through an old Model Power curve-on-curve turnout.

Enjoy your new model railroad.

DougC
 
You must log in or register to reply here.



Back
Top