Track Issue?


C

chadmichaels

Member
As i get ready to lay some track i see i might be running into a possiable problem. As you can see from the pics this curve might cause me problems.
072.jpg

074.jpg

As you can see I have a couple test cars that i have been pushing to make sure this curve will work. So far it does but will it be able to support a 10 car or longer train? What are some of the problems i could run into?
077.jpg

075.jpg

Any advice would be great.

Thanks
Chad
 
Do you know what radius the curve is?
If you can make it a bit wider, maybe "blob" it outward then back in?
At the very least you should fill the corner in with a triangular piece of wood.
I like to keep track at least 2" from the edge, especially on a curve.
 
You might consider building the corner in some and using a higher radius curve. Just put wedge in. It would look alittle better as well.
 
I see two issues. Unless it's an optical illusion, the curve is not lining up with the straight track and will be at or over the edge of the layout. As Rico said, that can be solved by adding a triangular block and also increasing the radius of the curve. That curve looks like an 18" radius or less, which will be OK for cars 50' and under but not for longer cars, bigger locomotives, or long trains.

The second thing is the it looks like the two layout sections don't line up with each other, with the right side being higher then the left. If that's really the case, you've got to get those two sections absolutely level with each other before you lay track. A hump between the two sections will cause you no end of problems and now is the time to fix it, not after you have track and scenery down.
 
Gentlemen,

UP, you are right the sections are not together yet..i have yet to tie all three sections together and get everything level. right now im just laying track and trying to make sure everything will work..nothing is glued down or anything. Ill get to cutting a triangle tomorrow to fit in that spot. thank you guys for your help.

Chad
 
If you can get a different line into that curve from the right, to begin with, it might mean you'll be able to widen the curve about 2" or more. You are wise, and right, to worry about stringlining longer trains of properly weighted cars around that curve. So, what I would do is angle the approach, from the right, outside the view of the first image, by having the tracks angled about 13-15 degrees toward the far track running along the wall. Then, about 8-10" further back from where your current curve commences, start a wider curve. It would also help to "ease" both ends of the curve.

-Crandell
 
Just a couple of more things. make sure everything is level. The back corner might be dipping some. Also do you have a plan to reach the corner? You might consider cutting a hole to access the out of reach areas or designing a cutout with a bridge in the area of the wedge. Just imagine a derailed engine or something else in the far corner that needs to be attended to. Can you reach the 6 foot or more distance with the corner piece installed?
 
guys,

All valid points you have brought up, glad i came here and asked those questions and got the answers. looks like im not quite ready to lay the track just yet. thanks again guys. going to the basement and getting to work.
 
Before finishing your benchwork, draw it out and post it.
I've saved many dollars checking here first and lost a few also because I didn't.
 
Are you using easments going into the curve? This is basically a gentle curving of the track from the straight section to the final radius. The value of an easment is that it is easier on the cars of the train to stay on the track plus longer locomotives can go into a tight radius without derailing.
 
Easements don't have to be anything complicated.. They can be as simple as putting 22" radius curves on the ends of your 18"s. You can run larger cars on 18" using the 22" end pieces.. Use 24's for 22'' curves, and so on.
 
As I get closer to laying track im starting to look for switches for the yard and everything else, what brand of switches would you guys suggest i get? Im using code 100 atlas super flex track the five piece bundles.
 
If you have the room I would suggest that you use the Atlas #6 turnouts. For the turnout control, I would consider the Caboose Hobbies (I think it is) ground throws.
If you want more operational control along with signal power routing, I would use double pole double throw slide switches that you can embed into the surface of your layout. Operation of these are more like just stabbing the slide switch one way or another where the ground throws take a little longer to get your finger nail under the throw and then ensure it is seated. The slide switches provide enough plastic nub that you can drill a small hole in then run a solid wire to the throw bar of your turnout.
 
Generally yes, by using transition joiners, but you will have to take special care to make sure the rail heads are level with one another. A little file work is usually needed
 
Search google or here for XtrkCad and you'll find the link. It's free and very versatile but you should take the online tutorial since it's not always intuitive.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.



Back
Top