Running Bear's Coffee Shop XLVII


Thank you Karl, I will tell her when she gets home. my dedicated little super star is working today!

If I were you I would run out and fire up the heaters then come back and have another cup of coffee or 2. It's as cold as a witches' tit in a brass bra out there!
 
Burlington Bob said:
Today is our anniversary! Forty years ago today I married a great woman! I know that for a fact because she's put up with me all this time!
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Congratulations Bob. 40 years - how old were you when you got married?

My wife and I are coming up on 30 this year.
 
Mike, you`re welcome.

Eric, I just was rummaging through my stash 'o trains, and found an Atlas ATSF GP38-2 with DCC and Loksound I`d let you have pretty cheap, if you want it. It is the previous version of decoder, but it runs terrific, and sounds good.
I will take a video of it later, and post it on Youtube.
 
bnsf971 said:
Eric, I just was rummaging through my stash 'o trains, and found an Atlas ATSF GP38-2 with DCC and Loksound I`d let you have pretty cheap, if you want it. It is the previous version of decoder, but it runs terrific, and sounds good.
I will take a video of it later, and post it on Youtube.
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Yeah, I'd be interested. HO I assume?
 
Here another of my engines. Now you can see it with it in the sunlight.
Any idea the make and model of the real one?

Under fuel tank is stamped "Made in Austria"?
Who would have made it? Is it a Marklin?
I have been inside this one and it comes apart easy with just 2 snaps by the front and rear couplers.
It's a smooth operator as well and is by far the fasted one of the lot.
E.
Unknown.JPG
Interest. This makes it look almost dark blue. But it is very much a flat black.
 
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BigE said:
Here another of my engines. Now you can see it with it in the sunlight.
Any idea the make and model of the real one?

Under fuel tank is stamped "Made in Austria"?
Who would have made it? Is it a Marklin?
I have been inside this one and it comes apart easy with just 2 snaps by the front and rear couplers.
It's a smooth operator as well and is by far the fasted one of the lot.
E.
View attachment 48092
Interest. This makes it look almost dark blue. But it is very much a flat black.
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That is an early Roco C424.It is probably a single-truck drive. They were over the years imported by Atlas, AHM, Life Like, and probably some others.
Atlas released a much-improved version in the late 1980s that was made by Kato.
 
By kbkchooch;

Bob, congrats on the anniversary! Give her a hug from us, she surely deserves it!
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By CMMR;

Congratulations Bob. 40 years - how old were you when you got married?
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Thanks for the anniversary congrats guys! I was the ripe old age of 20............two weeks past my birthday in fact! :) I knew she was the one for me!
 
Gees... all these anniversaries! You all are really making me feel like that hermit I already know I am. ;)
My Mom & Dad married sometime in January 1960.
According to my Uncle Jim (Mom's brother), I came along almost exactly 9 months to the day later.
Hmmm.... peculiar how that works out ain't it.

Happy anniversaries and birthdays to everyone.
E.
 
Afternoon All,

MOH is doing he spa thing currently. Later I am going to the train club. Tomorrow night the grandkids are spending the night and we will take them to school Monday since our daughter has jury duty and our SIL has to be at work earlier than the start of school.

Louis- Happy Birthday to your wife.

Bob- Happy Anniversary.

Here are some photos from new layout work.

IMG_1602_zpsavtdeuat.jpg


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I hope everyone has a good day.
 
Bob - congrats to you and the missuss on the 40-year mark! MOH and I are still 17 months away from our 30th.

Louis - more happy B-Day wishes to your O.H.! It's a bummer that she has to work on this special day.

Curt - I like all the trees you got on your layout, are any of them home-grown? My layout will be needing trees too but I don't want to take out a second mortgage to buy them all from Scenic Express/Woodland Scenics or any of those new commercial treemaker-wannabees...
 
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BigE said:
You are correct about the driveshafts to the front and rears trucks. Those are what's missing. It sounds smooth to put the power to it so I know it wants to go. I think it would be a good runner myself. This is an old one so it's DC only.
The couplers on mine look like the hook type with that lower point cut off. I have a few other cars like that as well.

Got a lead on where I get driveshafts for it? I did some searching a few weeks but wasn't sure.
E.
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No leads for you Eric, but here is something that you can do to make it run again. First, remove all of the cups, the ones with the slots in them, from the motor, the top gears in the middle of the chassis, and from each truck.

This is cheap way it involves some sweat equity:
Get you some nails, or some kind of round stock brass, etc, longer than the distance between the motor and gearbox. Measure the distance between the end of the motor shaft and the end of the gearbox shaft. Cut the roundstock to a slightly smaller length, and smooth the ends. Next take a small piece, about 1" long, of brown zip cord, like that used to extend lamp cords or on stereo speakers. This can be had at Lowes, HoDo, or most hardware stores. Push about 1/2 the length onto the motor shaft, cut another piece, same length, and push it onto the gearbox shaft. Now place the nail into each end of the cord pieces, making sure they are straight, when you spin the motor. You may have to bend one of the cord pieces to get it onto the other end, but when done, make sure it also is straight. Repeat the procedure with each truck. But here, you may have to shorten the shafts for the trucks, but not by much. Once the shafts are in place, the loco should run better than what it did with the original shafts in place.

This is the easy way, but calls for money:
Measure each shaft's diameter. Go to http://shop.osorail.com/category.sc?categoryId=42 and go down the list until you find the set that fits your shaftsThat are located here.http://shop.osorail.com/searchresults.sc The appropriate shafts are located on page two, in case this doesn't take you straight to the page.

One method can be done for pennies, and a little more DIY, the other takes a couple of $.
 
Cjcrescent said:
No leads for you Eric, but here is something that you can do to make it run again. First, remove all of the cups, the ones with the slots in them, from the motor, the top gears in the middle of the chassis, and from each truck.

This is cheap way it involves some sweat equity:
Get you some nails, or some kind of round stock brass, etc, longer than the distance between the motor and gearbox. Measure the distance between the end of the motor shaft and the end of the gearbox shaft. Cut the roundstock to a slightly smaller length, and smooth the ends. Next take a small piece, about 1" long, of brown zip cord, like that used to extend lamp cords or on stereo speakers. This can be had at Lowes, HoDo, or most hardware stores. Push about 1/2 the length onto the motor shaft, cut another piece, same length, and push it onto the gearbox shaft. Now place the nail into each end of the cord pieces, making sure they are straight, when you spin the motor. You may have to bend one of the cord pieces to get it onto the other end, but when done, make sure it also is straight. Repeat the procedure with each truck. But here, you may have to shorten the shafts for the trucks, but not by much. Once the shafts are in place, the loco should run better than what it did with the original shafts in place.

This is the easy way, but calls for money:
Measure each shaft's diameter. Go to http://shop.osorail.com/category.sc?categoryId=42 and go down the list until you find the set that fits your shaftsThat are located here.http://shop.osorail.com/searchresults.sc The appropriate shafts are located on page two, in case this doesn't take you straight to the page.

One method can be done for pennies, and a little more DIY, the other takes a couple of $.
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Thanks Carey. I'll take option 2. Seems fairly cheap enough to make a running engine from something non-operational. However, the old drive-shafts are missing. I have no idea what diameters I would need.
I'll have to take it apart again to see more detail given some other advices and info.
E.
 
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