plywood vs OSB


Furniture grade zero-void plywood is your best bet. NOT cheap, but you only want to build your layout one time, then add on.... No occlusions, no voids like cheap big box store plywood where the knots were when the veneers were sliced. Also another great option is baltic birch plywood. Comes in 5'×5' sheets to give more flexibility
 
HappyRock said:
Furniture grade zero-void plywood is your best bet. NOT cheap, but you only want to build your layout one time, then add on.... No occlusions, no voids like cheap big box store plywood where the knots were when the veneers were sliced. Also another great option is baltic birch plywood. Comes in 5'×5' sheets to give more flexibility
Click to expand...
Sorry, but I disagree with this. This wood is too hard, too heavy, and too expensive. Furniture grade plywoods are not necessary for model railroad benchwork, in my opinion. Regular ol' plywood with one side sanded is more than adequate enough for model railroad use. Heck, for larger scales like O-gauge, regular roof sheeting with neither side sanded may be just fine. I have 3 big box stores located within a mile total of each other. I'll go check all 3 out, and whoever has the best looking wood in stock is where I buy mine. They're usually close enough in their prices, that the price is generally not a factor as to who I buy from.
 
Mixed Freight said:
Sorry, but I disagree with this. This wood is too hard, too heavy, and too expensive.
Click to expand...

Furniture grade $89 for a 4x8, 1/2" or $100 for 3/4" sheet compared to 3/4 x 4 x 8 Premium ACX Sanded Plywood at $45 per sheet... and at 2.4# per 1/2" sheet or 4# for 3/4" sheet above cheap a$$ big box crap? Not a big weight differential.

Define "too hard"? Pilot holes are easy to drill, and zero void poplar is about as good as it gets. The Janka wood hardness ratings are; White Pine: 420, Douglas Fir: 660, Yellow Pine: 690, Yellow Poplar: 540

Seeing as how SPF (spruce,pine,fir) is, on average, harder than poplar, why mess with crap box store lumber?
 
Mixed Freight said:
Sorry, but I disagree with this. This wood is too hard, too heavy, and too expensive. Furniture grade plywoods are not necessary for model railroad benchwork, in my opinion. Regular ol' plywood with one side sanded is more than adequate enough for model railroad use. Heck, for larger scales like O-gauge, regular roof sheeting with neither side sanded may be just fine. I have 3 big box stores located within a mile total of each other. I'll go check all 3 out, and whoever has the best looking wood in stock is where I buy mine. They're usually close enough in their prices, that the price is generally not a factor as to who I buy from.
Click to expand...
I agree with you, never priced furniture grade, but I can buy 4x8 1/2 inch 4 ply sheeting from Menards for $24, and for my 3 rail O gauge setup it will be just fine. And for a miser like me the price is important. And I think I will stay with OSB as I can buy it for $17, as I am a eal penny pincher. Born from parents who went through the depression, and raised me with the same thoughts of penny saved is a penny earned
 
Last edited:
HappyRock said:
Furniture grade $89 for a 4x8, 1/2" or $100 for 3/4" sheet compared to 3/4 x 4 x 8 Premium ACX Sanded Plywood at $45 per sheet... and at 2.4# per 1/2" sheet or 4# for 3/4" sheet above cheap a$$ big box crap? Not a big weight differential.

Define "too hard"? Pilot holes are easy to drill, and zero void poplar is about as good as it gets. The Janka wood hardness ratings are; White Pine: 420, Douglas Fir: 660, Yellow Pine: 690, Yellow Poplar: 540

Seeing as how SPF (spruce,pine,fir) is, on average, harder than poplar, why mess with crap box store lumber?
Click to expand...
see my reply to mixed freight. And actually that much weight different is important also, as I am disabled and nor very strong.
 
MDF, ACX/CDX, and OSB are moisture SPONGES... WILL RUIN a layout. Best bet if you want cheap, make sure you seal the substrate
 
HappyRock said:
MDF, ACX/CDX, and OSB are moisture SPONGES... WILL RUIN a layout. Best bet if you want cheap, make sure you seal the substrate
Click to expand...
I have a 4' x 8' N-scale layout that I built over 20 years ago with a cheap plywood top on 1 x 4 framing. And fully scenic'd with all water-based scenery supplies. It has held up just fine, even without sealing the substrate.

Our local N-scale and HO-scale modular train clubs have modules that are over 30 years old, built with cheap plywood tops on 1 x 4 framing. They have held up just fine, without sealing the substrate. And these modules are virtually never stored in humidity and temperature-controlled environments!

While I agree with MDF and OSB as being moisture sponges, the "cheap plywood" has been holding up for years. Sorry though if actual experience with cheap plywood doesn't necessarily agree with the narrative.
 
I use 3/4 MDF two 4 by 8 sheets. The four legs are metal from a sears table saw and I have 2 by six side supports. It is heavy, I can stand on it and will not move with a little bump. Moisture has not been a problem. The top side is painted and I think it handles sound better than plywood.
 
CGW121 said:
I used OSB as a base and have not had any trouble with it. It has been 10 years at least.
Mike
Click to expand...
I was gonna switch my order to plywood, but as tight as I am I think I will stay with OSB.
as to what happy rock said about tools, I bought my first set of tools as a off brand cheap stuff, and have used them as a pro mechanic for 59 plus years, andmost are still with me. besides It doesn't have to last to long because I seriously doubt I will see 90 as I am 81 now
 
mowman24 said:
I was gonna switch my order to plywood, but as tight as I am I think I will stay with OSB.
as to what happy rock said about tools, I bought my first set of tools as a off brand cheap stuff, and have used them as a pro mechanic for 59 plus years, andmost are still with me. besides It doesn't have to last to long because I seriously doubt I will see 90 as I am 81 now
Click to expand...
the ones that go bad are the small wrench like 9/16 and smaller. I used to just thro them away, never had a 3/4" wrench go bad However i have busted a few.
 
CGW121 said:
the ones that go bad are the small wrench like 9/16 and smaller. I used to just thro them away, never had a 3/4" wrench go bad However i have busted a few.
Click to expand...
I've still got some of my first. 3/8 through 5/8 ones but I have lost some over the years. Cheap stuff, doesn't bother me to much if it disasters. Am much of a miser that I am I would lose sleep over losing a Snap on wrench. Only wrenches I have like that I picked up at an auction or some place for a couple bucks
 
You must log in or register to reply here.



Back
Top