Pennsylvania RR 4-8-2 M1 and M1A Project coming up

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Espeefan

Well-Known Member
#21
Nice looking models. Looks like some detail part differences, piping differences, and different tenders. The running gear looks identical. That’ll be good for you. Enjoy!
 
#22
Yep, the M1 was circa 1923ish and the M1A is about 1930. The tender (the longer one) for the M1A was for extended range. Having basically the same running gear will be nice to have for an example while I disassemble/reassemble as you said. Fun times ahead.
 

Espeefan

Well-Known Member
#25
Here is a bit of good info for painting the PRR Units. Pretty much said the repair shops got the paint CLOSE but didn't get anal about it.

http://www.angelfire.com/film/prrpics/PRRPaint.html
Very true. Paint shades would drift depending on the shop. The SP was the same way. I often drift the black by tinting, and shift the smokebox colors. I haven't forgotten your paint question either. I'm just not sure of the color names, so I had to grab their color chart. For Pennsy steamers: we've already discussed Brunswick Green. Flat smokebox gray, Metallic Smokebox Gray, Graphite & Oil, Oxide Red, Tuscan Red, PRR Freight Car Red. As you an see I might be the wrong guy to ask this question. I have a colossal amount of Salecoat, Tru-Color, and Floquil on hand. I also use Vallejo, Tamiya, and Reaper Miniatures, mostly for small detail work. If I can't find a color, I'll mix it. I had to mix the green for the boiler on this engine:
P-10 2487.JPG
 
#26
Well, I'm chomping at the bit to get started but I'm jumping on the Harley and heading to Show Low Az for a party so it will wait till Sunday or Monday after I get back. I better get moving before it's 115° out. That's another 600 mile weekend....... I'm getting too old for this stuff...... I used to put that many miles on before noon..... Hmmm

Thanks Alan for that inspirational picture above. I ordered several of the colors you mentioned and what I thought I would need for these 2 engines. I'll end up making another order later. By the way, what are you using to strip the old paint/lacquer? I saw one member used some acetone but messed up some plastic. I'll use it but on straight metal only. Cheers. Have a great weekend all.

Perry
 

Espeefan

Well-Known Member
#27
I strip in lacquer thinner than everything goes through my blasting booth at low pressure, 60-70 psi. If you don’t have a blaster soaking in lacquer thinner for a day or so followed by scrubbing with a toothbrush will also work. Rustoleum Aircraft Remover is a good water rinsable stripper that works really well. Unfortunately I haven’t been able to find any here in WI
 

Espeefan

Well-Known Member
#28
PS: Lacquer thinner will dissolve plastic. I once dunked a Soho Harriman in lacquer thinner and the next day I pulled the shell out of the bath and all of the vents were gone! The swear jar got a heavy contribution that day. Sounded like Ralphie's dad fighting the furnace! For plastic I use Scalecoat Wash-Away. Somewhat expensive but effective and not hard on plastic!
 

flyboy2610

Loveably weird
#29
I learned the hard way that acetone will do a number on plastic as well! I use denatured alcohol. Does a decent job, but not hard on plastic. It does need to soak for a couple of days, though.
 

Sirfoldalot

Plucked Tailfeathers
Staff member
#31
My weapon of choice is Easy-Off Oven Cleaner, a tooth brush, and lots of warm water.
I have not witnessed any deformity of plastic to date - I suppose there eventually could be?
I always test a new brand first before drowning it!
 
#32
Got the M1 Loco and tender disassembled and have the bodies soaking to get the clear off of them so I can blast them and get some paint on em... I noticed that this one (as many Samhongsa's) has a Canon can motor in it and I was wondering if anybody has retro'd a DCC style motor (prefer a Athearn flywheel style) into the limited space of one of these 4-8-2 steamers.... I know I can install the decoder/speakers into the tender so thats no issue. I suppose I could take apart one of my half dozen Athearn Genesis DCC loco's but though I'd ask first. I'll post a pic of the motor and cradle later.
 

Espeefan

Well-Known Member
#33
It’s your call but I’d leave the Canon in there. I’ve stopped fitting flywheels to steamers. I find them unnecessary with the motor tweaks you can do with DCC. If you’re putting sound in the tender just put in a keep alive. Same results, no heartburn.
 
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#37
It’s your call but I’d leave the Canon in there. I’ve stopped fitting flywheels to steamers. I find them unnecessary with the motor tweaks you can do with DCC. If you’re putting sound in the tender just put in a keep alive. Same results, no heartburn.
The sound board and speakers as well as the DCC decoder for the Loco will have to be fitted into the tender
 
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#40
It took Minuteman Scale Models (Scalecoat paint) a week to ship my order and they refused to answer my emails. I won't use them chumps again. I don't care if I have to use latex paint. A company who won't reply to emails is worthless and should be avoided. Yep.... I'm pissed

If you guys use any other quality paint by a company that CARES about their customers, let me know.
 



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