**Notice about Floquil
- Thread starter Trussrod
- Start date
Hate to tell you, but your several months behind on this one.
I've pretty much decided to use craft paints. The color selection is nearly limitless. I object to the prices charged for "modeling paints"....particularly when some from the LHS are a solid lump of crap. The bottle & label must cost more than the paint. It does take some fooling with the crafty stuff, tho. Bought a couple ughknown brand air brushes (for cheep) to help me over the hump. Gotta come up with a good air brush thinner for em'.
wright2626
Member
sounds more like a distributor that is trying to cause a "panic" to get dealers to rush and buy their inventory on paints. yes, i do know that it was announced that the floquil line is being phased out, and i imagine that testors is putting pressure on distributors to move the remaining inventory, so they are putting out "reminders" to the local hobby shops.
Gary B
The Fox Valley Railroad
Fine Scale modeler had an article on working with craft paints on plastic a few months ago. It went into different additives you can purchase at art stores that will make it stick better and spray. I experimented a little but was not fully satisfied with my results. Worth a try.
Greg@mnrr
Section Hand
JPIII:
Try windshield washer solution as a thinner for the craft paints and use it to clean your airbrushes.
I am finding out that the larger cans of spray paint like offered by Kryon works great for painting plastic buildings and has a long shelve life and its cheap in comparison to Testor's and other spray paint products. Its funny that we as modelers will buy a weathering solution that is a 16 oz. or so bottle and pay $10.00 + tax, when you can make a similar product for a lot less with nothing more than rubbing alcohol and India Ink.
As they say, "Necessary Becomes the Mother of invention". Look what earlier railroaders like John Allen created by using off the shelve, non-model railroading products and materials!
My 2 cents worth.
Greg
Try windshield washer solution as a thinner for the craft paints and use it to clean your airbrushes.
I am finding out that the larger cans of spray paint like offered by Kryon works great for painting plastic buildings and has a long shelve life and its cheap in comparison to Testor's and other spray paint products. Its funny that we as modelers will buy a weathering solution that is a 16 oz. or so bottle and pay $10.00 + tax, when you can make a similar product for a lot less with nothing more than rubbing alcohol and India Ink.
As they say, "Necessary Becomes the Mother of invention". Look what earlier railroaders like John Allen created by using off the shelve, non-model railroading products and materials!
My 2 cents worth.
Greg
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Are you talking about the fluid one puts in an automobile windshield cleaner tank or something like Windex? I have lots of both around the house so either sounds like a plan.
I plan to use wood exclusively (hopefully) for structures in keeping with the era.
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Greg@mnrr
Section Hand
JPIII:
I was referring to the windshield washer fluid, but Windex may work as well. But, if your working with wood, I would try thin enamel or lacquer in washes to prevent getting the wood too moist and having it warp. Be sure to back brace your wood panels with strip wood to prevent warping using any of the paint products. Or, consider using a wood sealer with the water based products.
Gary, I am using cans of Krylon that are both opened and unopened that are at least 6 years old. Works great on the Walther's Cornerstone Series buildings.
Thanks.
Greg
I was referring to the windshield washer fluid, but Windex may work as well. But, if your working with wood, I would try thin enamel or lacquer in washes to prevent getting the wood too moist and having it warp. Be sure to back brace your wood panels with strip wood to prevent warping using any of the paint products. Or, consider using a wood sealer with the water based products.
Gary, I am using cans of Krylon that are both opened and unopened that are at least 6 years old. Works great on the Walther's Cornerstone Series buildings.
Thanks.
Greg
Greg@mnrr
Section Hand
JPIII:
Just another thought, have you tried using Weather It to age wood to a gray tone which suggests old wood. After the wood dries, then, use thin washes, and I mean really thin and use several applications, of the color(s) you selected. Really gives a "weathered" look to wood structures.
Greg
Just another thought, have you tried using Weather It to age wood to a gray tone which suggests old wood. After the wood dries, then, use thin washes, and I mean really thin and use several applications, of the color(s) you selected. Really gives a "weathered" look to wood structures.
Greg
rlundy90
Armchair Engineer
I use craft paint as well, mixed with washer fluid. It sprays good out of an airbrush, but make sure you strain your paint. I have found this to be much more important than the type of paint you use. For wood, if you are just wanting to stain it to look like weathered wood, I use alchohol based leather dyes. They come in all colors and works very well. I use methyl hydrate to thin it with. Dries super fast and doesn't warp the wood. I use the black dye instead of india ink for weathering as well. It works better than ink, becuse it doesn't seperate and get sedement in it like ink will. Here's a pic of a wood building using red brown to replicate cedar and weathered with the black. Make sure to do all staining before you do any gluing. If you get any glue on the raw wood it won't take stain. Ron
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IowaFarmBoy
Member
I've been using craft paints for some time and lately when airbrushing I have been thinning them with "Pledge with Future Finish" aka Future Floor Wax which is not wax but rather is clear gloss acrylic. And it adheres to styrene well although I almost always use a rattle can primer anyway.
