Need advice on buying a new camera...


Dsquared_sleeperMSP

Dsquared_sleeperMSP

1:87 truck GuRu
Need advice on buying a digital camera. I could, but would rather not, spend more then $250. I will be using it for mostly taking pics of my HO scale models and my project cars. I shake quite a bit (or at least I believe I do) so I would imagine that I need a camera with an anti-shake feature. Even if someone could guide me in the right direction...ie; which name brands to stay away from etc...
 
its not you shaking but rather camera using longer exposure times due to limited light available (my garage seems bright but it is still not enough). anti-shake will help somewhat but from my experience with it will not improve situation by a lot (i'm using VR lens on DSLR). what you need is IMHO a good tripod - 100$ is acceptable cost/performance, maybe even 80$ will do. i wouldn't go for less. and/or better lighting.

as far as soapbox digicams they all reached the point of "very good" and exact pixel count will not matter much. just stay with respectable brand and you good.
oh, you also might want to get a cam with macro focus option - get closer to your models, tripod should make things nice and steady.

my 0.002 worth.
 
I've been using a Fuji S3000 for a long time, but it ate up batteries & the Mexa Pixels were only 3.2. Now, I have a Kodak ZD8612 IS. This 1 is an 8.1 MP w/a 12X lens w/macro. This thing is real easy to use & the shake problems that I had w/the Fuji I don't have w/this one. The Kodak has a larger range of Options & the screen is a lot bigger. I paid $129.50 at Walmart. My Fuji was over $300.00 when I bought it about 8 yrs. ago. I use mine basically to take pictures of my layout. I used it on vacation for scenery shots & it was fantastic.
 
Things to look for (as said, most major brands will be excellent)

optical viewfinder
macro function
time delay shutter
aperture priority (labeled A or Av)
a tripod screw hole

for stuff on the layout a very, very small tripod will suffice, so you can place it anywhere on the layout. The big macho ones are great for other uses but you need something that just holds the camera still and can skrunch down low. Use the time delay and tripod and shake will be history.
 
On mine I have a stitch program. I can hook 3 pictures side by side & then print it as a panoramic picture. It's really neat for a wide screen. I can also take action shots in sequence. Takes a nice video & much much more. For the price it beats a lot of the higher price camera's.
 
In addition to A or AV, you also want M so you can control your own focus and iris dwell configuration. You would presumably also want to avail yourself of a video capability, so look for the old style movie camera symbol.

You will only ever use "optical" zoom, and virtually never ('cuz it sucks) digital zoom, so if you can get a reputable make with something like X6 optical zoom or more for the price-point you mention, feel confident.

As the gentlemen have stated, if you are really seriously interested in getting the best out of your modelling skills by imaging them, you must use a tripod....period. Never, ever, use flash...not even in a pinch. It will look horrible.

If you are still receptive to suggestions about cameras, don't overlook the highly rated Canon Powershot series. They have image stabilization which is handy when rail fanning and catching your wife in mid-air as she tumbles off the pool edge, but it requires flash indoors to image properly, and we just agreed that you never use flash....not even in a pinch.

Did we mention that you need a tripod? Don't get the $35 special unless it is marked down from a real and true $120. Good luck finding that bargain unless you can get it at a garage sale or from a friend. Generally, you will find yourself very pleased that you spent about $100 ten years from now. I did that with a Slik tripod and pat myself on the back every time I reach for it, now about 12 years later.

That said about tripods, you will find a small bean bag or even a small bag of fine WS ground foam useful to orient your camera where the tripod is impractical or impossible. Just set your aperture timer to 10 seconds, focus, set the camera on the prepositioned bag, and then trip the shutter. The camera will settle within about 6 seconds and you'll get a nice image.

-Crandell
 
uhhh, that's a neat tip for the bean bag!

i'd go for ~100 tripod + ~150$ camera. 150$ buys a lot of camera these days.




i think i might need to follow my own advise and move the tripod down to garage
 
I shake quite a bit as well. I've had really good luck with a Nikon CoolPix L18. It's 8 megapixels, has an anti-shake feature, AE, and has a 3" LCD screen so I can get a real good look at what I'm photographing. It adjusts up to ISO 1600, has 15 scene modes, macro, 3X optical zoom and a digital zoom that'll knock your socks off. With D-Lighting dark photos are a thing of the past. I got it for less than $100 online from OfficeMax.
 
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A few must have itmes

A tripos will help you in low light conditions like the other guys have mentioned.

I have a $10 Samsonite tripod I bought a few years ago. It is aluminum, collapsible, and weighs nothing.

I mount my digital camera on it and use the 10- second timer and it will get a great pic every time. 10 seconds gives me enough time to push the button, step back and let the tripod get still, and get the shot.

What ever you buy, MAKE SURE THE CAMERA YOU BUY HAS A "MACRO" or "SUPER MACRO" FUNCTION.

Macro mode allows you to get real close to a subject and still be able to focus on it.

Without Macro function, you can forget taking great closeup shots.


--Jon
 
All suggestions so far are great. One thing I don't necessarily agree with is the need for an expensive tripod. The type of camera you are looking for will be small and lightweight, so almost any tripod will do. Any one is better than none! I personally do have a sturdy Manfrotto tripod, but I do a lot of photography and my DSLR with attached battery grip and long lenses are heavy and need sturdy support. I have a couple of lightweight tripods that I use with my smaller cameras with no problems.


Go to a Wal-Mart and check out the prices, spend as much as you want on a camera and you'll get the best, no matter what the brand name. From what I've seen, all digitals have "macro" or close-up mode, as well as self timers. It's the ones with the dial on top that have the "Av", "Tv" and "M" that are the most useful when shooting model railroad photos. They'll also have an "A" marking for using the camera on automatic in other occasions if you want.

Check out my website for more info on model railroad photography:
http://sites.google.com/site/railphotog/

Good luck!
 
CoolRuehle said:
What ever you buy, MAKE SURE THE CAMERA YOU BUY HAS A "MACRO" or "SUPER MACRO" FUNCTION.

Macro mode allows you to get real close to a subject and still be able to focus on it.

Without Macro function, you can forget taking great closeup shots.


--Jon
Click to expand...

It all depends on just what sort of photos you are after but I would point out that unless one is simply taking general layout, or "builder's photo-type" shots, the Macro function on most relatively inexpensive digital cameras (under $350) is of little worth for model railroad photography.

When the typical Macro feature is employed, the depth-of-field is usually so limited that much of the scene, beyond the main subject, will be out-of-focus. It's more or less OK for guys taking simple photos of specific pieces of equipment, but the results with up-close layout scenes won't pass muster. You rarely get photos in any way approaching most of the better shots seen weekly on various forums by using a Macro setting.

NYW&B
 
speaking of tripods, I have a professional grade tripod for most uses, but it is of limited value on the layout. Instead I use a very light and very cheap ($1!) foldy thingy. It's more important in this case that is be able to get the camera down really low to the surface to simulate more of a "people view" perspective. I can place my little pod anywhere on the layout without any damage and within an inch or so of the surface. It won't support my dSLR, I usually use my ancient Coolpix 950 for this purpose. It needs to be very rigid, but not so big.

For the shots, a camera that has Aperture Priority can give better results than macro mode (altho that is very useful at other times).

Set up the camera on the tripod, compose the shot, set it to aperture priority and dial in the smallest (BIG #) aperture you can. (keep the flash OFF!) Set it to time delay and shoot. The small aperture will increase the depth of field, meaning more of the shot will be in focus.

In fact, you can look to see what the minimum aperture is while shopping, it will be called something like "f2.8-24". The bigger that 2nd number, the better. 26-28s is good; 30+ better.

The downside is that your shutter will be incredibly long, like several seconds. Hence the need for a tripod and time delay (a remote can substitute time delay in this case). You simply cannot hand hold a camera still enough with very long shutters. In the case of my layout, that means no movement anywhere near them to avoid vibrations. Don't touch the camera, tripod or the layout or it could blur. I've often wound up with 3-4 second exposures which is darn near a lifetime. A slammed door can spoil it!

The reason the macro mode is still important is that it determines the shortest distance at which the camera can focus. In many cases, without macro, the camera can't focus on anything closer than say 12-24". In model work, you need to focus on stuff with in a few inches. The macro lens jsut by being there will help a bit even if not used in the macro mode (and using macro mode and aperture priority mode can't be done at the same time in most cases).

But the best advice: practice, practice, practice!
 
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Larry said:
On mine I have a stitch program. I can hook 3 pictures side by side & then print it as a panoramic picture. It's really neat for a wide screen. I can also take action shots in sequence. Takes a nice video & much much more. For the price it beats a lot of the higher price camera's.
Click to expand...

I had a Kodak that I got for Christmas of 2007. It had that panoramic feature that was really cool. The camera itself seemed decent and it was rated at 10 mp. However, it kind of got lost when my g/f and I broke up. So I'm still trying to get an idea of which brands are good and which aren't.
 
A lot of cameras come with a stitch/panoramic merge feature in the included software, Canon and Nikon both do that I know of. If not free in the included s/w, it's pretty common in 3rd party editors like PaintShop Pro.

Shop for the freatures you want, not necessarily the brand. Most of the brands you've heard of are all very, very good.
 
I know where two "free ones" are. Both on the bottom of the lakes. One on Erie and the other in Huron. I can give you the approximate GPS coordinates if you wish.

One is a high dollar Canon 35mm SLR digital, the other a pocket fitting Olympus...

Don't ask how I know they are down there. Painful.

Bob
 
My Nikon L18 has a panorama assist feature built in. I've not tried it since panoramic shots aren't my cup of tea but it's supposed to be fairly easy to use.
 
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