Magnetic decouplers vs manual.

[DALDEI]

I've reached the stage (or perhaps slightly past it) where I need to decide on
if I am to use magnetic decoupling as part of my operations or stick to manual
(with those sticks).

I wasnt able to really experiment well until I had some track laid and a few
cars ...
I've changed out all my couplers to Kaydee magnetic decouplers.
I have 2 kinds of magnets to experiment with. the over the ties and under the
ties types. My baseboad is cork on foam so its not too much trouble (I hope)
to dig out some spots under track I've already run if I have to ...
Guage is HO.
In my ideal fantasy world I'd prefer fully 'hands off' decoupling .. but I don't
know if reality would match fantasy.


My questions to the experienced are these ...

1) Does magnetic decoupling reliably work ? I've gotten it to work on test
tracks but it was persnickety. But I dont know if its just because I didnt
install the magnets right ...
So presuming I am perfect at installing the magnets would my fantasy be
achievable ... 100% hands-off coupling and decoupling ?

2) Are the above the track or below the track magnets "better" ? or is the
difference just in looks ?

3) How about the bulky (and expensive) electromagnets ? Do they actually work
better or are they just so you can turn them on and off ?

4) Where to put them ? I've read the NTRACK guidelines and they say never on the
mainline. I think thats reasonable although not sure how one could split a
train to put a few cars on a siding without a decoupler on the mainline.


Any other advise, opinions, or anecdotes welcome !
Is this even a pointful fantasy ? or should I just give up before I start and
not waste my time.

=David

 

[santafewillie]

I have used the over the ties ones and my results have been mixed but mostly been good. I think my failures are more due to cranky couplers than the magnets. I "hide" them by placing them behind buildings or in the middle of road crossings where I can. I now only use them in hard-to-reach places. On the mainline I would use the electromagnetic variety to prevent accidental uncoupling. While I have one of these, I have never installed it so I can't comment on its reliability.
Willie

 

[Larry]

Below tracks Magnets work the best. The good thing about these, you can back up over the magnet, pull forward a speck to uncouple & then push the car back to where you want it & it will not couple up until you pull forward & back up again to couple. You have to use the delayed under track magnet. The way you tell the difference is the magnet has a thin piece of metal stuck to the bottom of the magnet. It's real hard to get the above/between track magnets to work correctly unless it's the delayed type & it has to be on an exact straight track to work properly. I tried some small 1/8th diameter by 1/2in deep barrel magnets that has to be recessed into the track roadbed to make them work, but to make them work good the GladHand hanging down on the coupler has to be real close to the bottom of the car to make them work. I've slowly been removing these off my layout & replacing them w/Atlas under track delayed magnets where possible.

 

[NH Mike]

I have a mix of both under track and above track on my HO road. No real problems either way as long as your coupler tails are set to the Kadee gauge and the above track magnet checks correctly with the gauge. The below track will pull the couplers further apart because of the width making the N & S poles of the magnet further apart from each other. About the only disadvantage of the below track unit is seeing it after you ballast. Kadee includes a whistle post to install beside the track at the center of the magnet for reference. I've found that is generally where I wouldn't have a whistle post so instead I paint the outside edge of the tie at each end of the magnet in a noticeable but subtle color like grey or mud color.

Depending on the code of the track you use Kadee may not make an above track unit so under track is the only way. I have 2 code 55 sidings and both required under track units. Not sure what they offer for N scale. Hope this helps.

 

[amdaley]

I have seen 6mm x 3mm cylinder magnets used. I have tried them myself on a little yard & they seem to work well. Just drill 3mm holes on each side just inside the rails & push the magnets down into the holes until the tops are roughly level with the top of the ties. Run a few trucks across where they are by hand & adjust the height of the magnets until you are happy with the operation.They put a small dab of super glue level with the magnet at baseboard level & you're done.When you finished ballasting just put a tip of paint on the top of one of the magnets so you know where they are.

 

[DougC]

David:

I'll be the (so far) lone voice of, "I don't like magnetic uncouplers."

I tried them about 15 years ago and abandoned it. Here's why:

- At least back then they were extremely finicky about coupler tails' ("air hoses") heights. I had a heck of time getting them "right enough" to work, and even then they wouldn't work all the time. Frustrating.

- Trying to get ALL of my 250 cars' coupler tails exactly right would be WORK - I've got about 9 different model railroad manufacters' represented, and most all of them with different underbody-to-railtop heights.

- Even marking the locations of the under-table magnets and the on-crossties magnets didn't help me much. I was used to stopping trains wherever I felt like, and when I started some them forward again I'd notice I had a shorter train - then have to go back and shove the head car off the magnet, pull forward, then reverse to couple up (or use the five-fingered-hook and pull back end up to the front end.)

Since then I've never used the magnets even though all my cars (except a 34 car unit train) have KDs or ProtoMax couplers.

I guess in summary I was and still am too lazy to do all the work needed! And even then I bet I'd still have problems. I'd rather spend my model railroad time on watching trains run and other projects (like adding weights to locos.)

To those of you who can make the magnets/coupler tails work properly - KUDOS.

DougC

 

[maczimb]

Magnetic uncoupling

I haven't had a lot of luck with magnetic uncoupling, but then, I haven't really taken the time to do it right.
One thing I don't understand is the difference between delayed and non delayed magnet uncoupling.
Mac

 

[Rico]

I guess I'm with Doug, no magnets.
Actually I cut the trip pins off most all of my equipment, but have to say a magnet uncoupler would be nice for passenger equipment with diaphrams tho.
I use a bamboo skewer for uncoupling since operators follow their train on my layout.
Also thinking of switching my coal cars to Sargent couplers.

 

[fast_ian]

...In my ideal fantasy world I'd prefer fully 'hands off' decoupling .. but I don't know if reality would match fantasy.

I too would like it all to work without any intervention from the old 0-5-0. As has been noted, "some people swear by it, others swear about it!"..... I've had it working nicely on test track, but that's a long way from the real world.

Kadee now do two versions (for code 83 & 100) and "recommend" the use of their mounting jig to ensure the height is correct & parallel to the track. Given that, and careful adjustment of the couplers I'm "optimistic".

It does seem that Murphy intervenes if you put any on the main line - You will stop directly over one and the train will fall apart when you take off. Hence the advise to not put 'em on the main.....

One thing I don't understand is the difference between delayed and non delayed magnet uncoupling.

"Delayed uncoupling" is a Kadee trademark and is described thusly - #'s refer to the diagram attached;

1. Stop with the couplers over an uncoupler and back up slightly with the couplers still over the uncoupler, allowing slack to occur between couplers.
2. Pull forward bringing coupler off the uncoupler. Couplers will snap to the delayed position.
3. Back up, pushing the car(s) to the desired location. Do not permit slack to develop between couplers.
4. Pull forward, leaving the car(s) where desired. Couplers will automatically return to normal coupling position.

Cheers,
Ian

 

[Beachbum]

I've had mixed results. Over the tie KD magnets have worked the best for me. Burying plate magnets under the ties worked the worst, however it might have been the way I placed them, etc.

Now, I just use a Rix(?) uncoupler tool - two small bar magnets on the legs of an h-shaped plastic handle.

 

[Tuna]

Generally, I like the magnet uncoupling. I use the ones that fit under the ties so you can't see the magnet between the rails. The only issue I have with them is that if you get a little slack between cars as the train rolls over the magnet, you can get uncoupling when you don't want it. I keep the magnets on sidings and in yards where the train is not going to be cruising over them.

Where I don't have magnets, I use the Rix manual decoupler.