Liquid nails


Kentuckyjed

Member
I am sure some of you out there have used liquid nails for layouts etc. Has anyone had any issues using liquid nails to glue down the Woodland Scenics foam incline and foam trackbed. I have a few tubes and would prefer to use them if I can. I am gluing to foamboard if that makes a difference. I used the liquid nails to glue the foamboard to my plywood sheet with no issues. Any advice is well taken. Thanks BZ
 
I am sure some of you out there have used liquid nails for layouts etc. Has anyone had any issues using liquid nails to glue down the Woodland Scenics foam incline and foam trackbed. I have a few tubes and would prefer to use them if I can. I am gluing to foamboard if that makes a difference. I used the liquid nails to glue the foamboard to my plywood sheet with no issues. Any advice is well taken. Thanks BZ
That's what I used to glue down my WS inclines.

As for the track bed: I suppose you could use it for that. Just note it will be permanent and if you want to take it up you will destroy it. A better alternative for the roadbed would be clear latex caulk. That's what I attach my track with as well. If you want to remove it, just take a putty knife and run it along underneath and it will peel up. Easy for re-use in the future should you want to change some things up.

Hope that helps.
 
Latex liquid nails works well but not the other type, which I forget right now.
And Mike mentioned calk works well for track.
 
Thanks for the info. I think I will try it on the WS incline/decline and use a latex caulk for the trackbed and track.
 
If it's anything like Pattex "no more nails - all materials" then it works well at gluing styrene and XPS together (as well as anything surface to surface). But be aware it has a very rubbery texture when dry. This stuff does not accept painting so should only be used on non visible surfaces.
For visible surfaces scenic cement (or even normal wood/PVA glue diluted with IPA or even water) is better for scenic stuff, as it will accept acrylic paints as long as it gets the "air" to dry, eg.. wood(porous) to plastic is good, as opposed to plastic 2 plastic.
Some PVA glue contains solvent which allows it to dry without a pourus surface, but for that I would use the no nails.

Best thing with anything new is to try a test peice and see how it behaves, can it be painted?, is it hard or flexible, etc..
 
Last edited:
If it's anything like Pattex "no more nails - all materials" then it works well at gluing styrene and XPS together (as well as anything surface to surface). But be aware it has a very rubbery texture when dry. This stuff does not accept painting so should only be used on non visible surfaces.
For visible surfaces scenic cement (or even normal wood/PVA glue diluted with IPA or even water) is better for scenic stuff, as it will accept acrylic paints as long as it gets the "air" to dry, eg.. wood(porous) to plastic is good, as opposed to plastic 2 plastic.
Some PVA glue contains solvent which allows it to dry without a pourus surface, but for that I would use the no nails.

Best thing with anything new is to try a test peice and see how it behaves, can it be painted?, is it hard or flexible, etc..
Thanks for the info, I am using it to adhere the incline/decline foam to my foamboard. I have just tried it and it seems to work, just have to let it cure a bit.
BZ
 
Thanks for the info, I am using it to adhere the incline/decline foam to my foamboard. I have just tried it and it seems to work, just have to let it cure a bit.
BZ
Should be perfect for that (assumig it is the same stuff. Europe is same-same... but different :D )
 
Just for future reference:

I don't know if you are referring to this specific Liquid Nails product...


...but it IS completely safe for foam insulation board. I suspect it would be safe for the other foam item you described too.
 



Back
Top