L-shaped benchwork


One very good place to start would be here:

How to Build Model Railroad Benchwork by Linn Hanson Westcott: Fair Paperback (1979) | BooksRun

Free Shipping - ISBN: 9780890245422 - Paperback - Kalmbach Pub Co (edition ) - 1979 - Condition: Fair - Ship within 24hrs. Satisfaction 100% guaranteed. APO/FPO addresses supported - How to Build Model Railroad Benchwork
www.abebooks.com

The author, Linn H. Westcott, pretty much pioneered the L-girder idea, so you could say he literally "wrote the book."

Linn was also a well known and still well remembered editor of Model Railroader Magazine, assuming you need any other references to his pedigree. IIRC, he was also a pioneer in building the original "momentum throttles." I built one of those myself, and it still works well today (although I should probably check for capacitor leaks, come to think of it).

If I also remember correctly, Linn's original L-girder concept used typical dimensional lumber--1x2's, 1x3's, 1x4's etc, which usually had to be left to "season," to take out any warps. That was recommended anyway, although building the L's themselves do reduce the need for that. I think it's a lot more common today to build the L's out of ripped lengths of plywood, which is a lot more consistent in dimension and stability both.

I do recall too that there were, and maybe still are a couple of sources for DIY kits and parts for L-girder construction. FWIW.
 
Thank you very much for all very interesting replies. You can see my track plan bellow (it's just an idea):

4004.jpg
 
That is best idea yet :)
In regards to foam, it is really good stuff to work with and very light. While you can use friggolite/EPS polystyrine (that the stuff with all the balls) it is better to use XPS foam for a few reasons. It is dense, carvable and very stable (especially when "sealed" with modpodge or white glue) it can be even be used as bridge supports. Most importantly makes no where near the mess that the ball stuff uses. You can sand it really nicely, but bear in mind it creates the kind of dust you really dont want to breathe so wear a mask and keep a vac on the area while sanding as best you can. Better still make it wet and then wipe it constantly with a cloth.
 
BigGRacing said:
For benchwork, I would also use a method similar to @Iron Horseman , his current module build “

Starting another new module.”​

Click to expand...
Got it ! Thanks Gary.
modelrailroadforums.com

Starting another new module.

Since the big move started 2 years ago the trains have been sort of put on hold. Got this new big house and there is still no room for a layout (how does that work). Anyway I also joined a local group that just started a modular layout. Despite having umm 16ish modules from previous places...
modelrailroadforums.com modelrailroadforums.com
 
This is one 4ft x 1ft section I added to my layout.

PXL_20231126_154554551.jpg


This is how I built the rest of my bench work as well, from a full sheet of plywood (15/32" thick) to smaller sections. I keep adding small sections to my layout, but now I'm out of room for more expansion.

PXL_20231102_184335480.jpg


PXL_20231102_184415058.jpg


PXL_20231102_191629820.jpg


That book on the table in the last picture is the book I used to get my idea for building my benchwork. I had no idea where to start when I started building it.
 
Marlin338MX said:
This is one 4ft x 1ft section I added to my layout.

View attachment 177943

This is how I built the rest of my bench work as well, from a full sheet of plywood (15/32" thick) to smaller sections. I keep adding small sections to my layout, but now I'm out of room for more expansion.

View attachment 177944

View attachment 177945

View attachment 177946

That book on the table in the last picture is the book I used to get my idea for building my benchwork. I had no idea where to start when I started building it.
Click to expand...
Looks like a nice soild base for your layout.
 
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