kwalker421
H-8 Lover
well, im pretty new to weathering. mostly ive left my cars alone but now i want them to look real. do i hjave to use an airbrush? can i use different colored chalk dusts like white, gray. browns, and others?
kinda new to weathering
- Thread starter kwalker421
- Start date
Selector
Well-Known Member
It can be done with chalk, but it is the most difficult, in my opinion, to do a good job that way. The problem is that, unless one uses the Bragdon-type powders that also have an adhesive property, they'll rub or blow off. What we do to prevent this is use a matte medium fixative, or something like Dull-Coat from Testors as an covering. But when you use that covering, the chalk you built up all but disappears, so you have to make multiple coats of powder and Dull Coat until you achieve what you are looking for.
There is a lot to be said for an airbrush, but it's only as good as the hours of practise and talent permit. And, not all airbrushes are created equal. Different designs have different advantages.
I have gotten good results with using heavy washes of blends of cheapo acrylic crafts paints. I wipe most of the wash off on a paper towel, and then swipe the item to be dirtied. Again, it takes practise, and should be done on junk first. That allows you to warm up and to get the right colours before you actually embark on any one weathering session.
Here is a PCM Norfolk & Western Y6b that I recently weathered. It isn't close in the shot, but close enough to see the overall effect. The coal hoppers and caboose were also done with washes and a dryish brush method.
There is a lot to be said for an airbrush, but it's only as good as the hours of practise and talent permit. And, not all airbrushes are created equal. Different designs have different advantages.
I have gotten good results with using heavy washes of blends of cheapo acrylic crafts paints. I wipe most of the wash off on a paper towel, and then swipe the item to be dirtied. Again, it takes practise, and should be done on junk first. That allows you to warm up and to get the right colours before you actually embark on any one weathering session.
Here is a PCM Norfolk & Western Y6b that I recently weathered. It isn't close in the shot, but close enough to see the overall effect. The coal hoppers and caboose were also done with washes and a dryish brush method.
kwalker421
H-8 Lover
beautiful...beautiful job. thanks for your help. what colours do you think i should use? i'd like to get the trucks done, some rust and grime, and maybe the couplers
lmackattack
old school
An air brush does wonders for you and in the long run its faster. I like the water based paint as you can change colors faster and clean up is easy . I use rust,oily black,rust, RR tie brown, Earth tones etc... every one has there own idea of how something is weathered. I like to do it lightly almost as if the car or engine was washed withing the last month. One thing i suggest is test out your ablitys on a darker freight car first as any mistakes are hidden better.
Trent
Trent
Be careful with couplers. Use a rust color but apply it with a fine brush so you avoid the coupler spring and knuckle rod. Too much paint any you'll have a non working coupler. I'm assuming you're using Kadee type couplers.
I'm not as pessimistic about chalks as Crandell since I think chalks provide better subtle color changes and you can control exactly where you want the colors placed with no masking. Crandell is correct that this is not a skill learned overnight, however, so it will take some practice to learn how heavy to apply chalks so they don't disappear when you apply a matte medium spray to hold everything in place. In the long run, I use combination of chalks, washes, and paints to get the results I want. There's no one method that will do everything. There's a really good site about weathering at http://www.modeltrainsweathered.com/. These guys tend to be real experts so don't let their sometimes superior attitudes throw you off. You'll find lots of wheat among the chaff.
I'm not as pessimistic about chalks as Crandell since I think chalks provide better subtle color changes and you can control exactly where you want the colors placed with no masking. Crandell is correct that this is not a skill learned overnight, however, so it will take some practice to learn how heavy to apply chalks so they don't disappear when you apply a matte medium spray to hold everything in place. In the long run, I use combination of chalks, washes, and paints to get the results I want. There's no one method that will do everything. There's a really good site about weathering at http://www.modeltrainsweathered.com/. These guys tend to be real experts so don't let their sometimes superior attitudes throw you off. You'll find lots of wheat among the chaff.
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IronBeltKen
Lazy Daydreamer
One idea I haven't seen anybody mention yet is to apply a layer of dullcote first, to create a rougher surface that the powders can 'cling' to...
True, Ken, I had forgotten to mention that. If you dullcoat the work first, even ordinary chalk has more "teeth" to grab on to while still allowing you to wipe off the chalks if it's not turning out like you want. I've also found that the second coat of dullcoat doesn't mute the chalk colors as much compared to using chalks on the original finish.
Laidoffsick
3 Railer
I use a combination of weathering powders, acrylic paint, and airbrushing. Most of the effects that are really noticeable are done with the airbrush.
nmaniac
Member
Laidoffsick
3 Railer
I use those and I also have the AIM powders. I personally prefer the Bragdon, JMO though.
Blexcroid
Incognito
I use the MAC cosmetics for my weathering. The colours Raizin and Coppertone work perfect to create rust and the lighter coloured streaks that follow it (respectively).
I also use the colour Scene to create locomotive soot on the locos and tunnels, overpasses, etc. I find that I don't have to dullcote it, but if I do, it doesn't blow off like chalks do.
I also use the colour Scene to create locomotive soot on the locos and tunnels, overpasses, etc. I find that I don't have to dullcote it, but if I do, it doesn't blow off like chalks do.
