Kind of off Topic, but still layout related.


ScottoT

ScottoT

Member
I'm preparing for my basement layout build - if you've been following my posts.

Anyway. I'm working in an unfinished basement. I'm concerned with the effects of humidity on my track, or bench work etc. I've spent time putting up framework for foam insulation. The 1" foam insulation I have is cut to fit between my framework. I am planning on covering the framework and foam with a fascia background.

My question is this. Will covering the foam and framework work as effectively if I don't glue the foam to the cinder block? Or is it imperative that I glue the foam insulation to the cinder block first?

Thanks in advance.
 
Not off topic at all, basement/room preparation is all part of the process of layout building. Do you get moisture, condensation, water seepage or worse mold on the walls, ceiling (underfloor) or onto the floor itself at all, i.e. is dampness a problem to begin with? If so, then the source or cause will have to be fixed first. I'm hoping, seeing you have already put up framework, that there are none of those things present and your concern is about humidity in the air in the basement.

If you intend sheeting the walls after you've fitted the insulation, then gluing the foam to the blockwork isn't necessary. Insulation works best when there are no air gaps between the insulation medium and the framework it is mounted into. Painting the back side of the foam that is against the blocks with a latex paint will help to seal it as well, not absolutely necessary and I doubt if you hired a professional to do the job, they wouldn't consider it in their quote. If you can cut the foam to be a reasonably firm push fit into the spaces, that also will be enough of an air seal, otherwise some caulking will suffice where required.

An electric dehumidifier may be needed to deal with the humidity in the air if that still is a problem. As a last bit of advice, never ever use MDF (Medium Density Fibreboard) in your layouts construction.
 
I agree with Toot. My basement is poured concrete. After framing the room, I just put the foam sheets between the studs. I did use paneling instead of sheet rock. I have been in the house for 40 years and have not had any moisture problems, but we do live in a dry climate. If you are worried about moisture, you could roll on a concrete sealant before framing.

A lot will depend on where you live.
 
Just a suggestion...while the stud walls are open, why not add some electrical outlets along the wall for future use. They will come in handy for a variety of uses.

Thanks.

Greg
 
IMG_8119.jpg
Greg@mnrr said:
Just a suggestion...while the stud walls are open, why not add some electrical outlets along the wall for future use. They will come in handy for a variety of uses.

Thanks.

Greg
Click to expand...

Fortunately for me I have electrical outlets already on the wall. IMG_8133.jpg
 
I used MDF, but only as splines for splined sub-roadbed. I think MDF gets a bum rap. If it is used wisely, and sealed when it makes sense to do that, it's a useful material. Just one thing that you should not use it for...flat sub-roadbed. Why? You won't be able to press track spikes or nails into it. But for framing, with the correct thickness and spans, there's little else wrong with it. If, like me, you normally run a dehumidifier anyway as a matter of course, you needn't bother sealing it.

If you are in a high-ambient humidity space, and can't really justify running a dehumidifier for any reason, then MDF should be allowed to acclimate for about a full week in the conditions in which you will make it fit upon cutting. I treat milled lumber the same way, and for the same reasons.
 
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