RFANDPVILLE
Member
Ok, so I am interestedin using JB Weld. I got questions. Is the stuff sandable? Can i shape it to fit and then make it work with moving parts?
JB Weld
- Thread starter RFANDPVILLE
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trailrider
Well-Known Member
As I have done almost no work with JB Weld specifically, what I am about to post may be of no help. About 10 years ago, after a blizzard, a neighbor was using his snow blower to remove snow from most of the 35 in. of white stuff from the cul-de-sac. He just about finished my driveway when he blew the cylinder of the blower engine! I mean, put the rod through the side of the cylinder! All the neighbors offered to chip in a buy him a new motor, but he said, no, he'd just patch it with JB Weld! He did, and so far as I know he is still using the blower, patch and all!
Now, years ago, I did a lot of kitbashing of Mantua locomotives, stretching the frames using Devcon Plastic Steel, which was/is? a two-part epoxy with powdered steel in the matrix of the main material. Once hardened (about 24-48 hours of curing time for sure), the stuff was strong, but could be filed, drilled and tapped, etc.
I may be wrong, but JB Weld is probably quite similar. You might want to contact the manufacturer to be sure.
Now, years ago, I did a lot of kitbashing of Mantua locomotives, stretching the frames using Devcon Plastic Steel, which was/is? a two-part epoxy with powdered steel in the matrix of the main material. Once hardened (about 24-48 hours of curing time for sure), the stuff was strong, but could be filed, drilled and tapped, etc.
I may be wrong, but JB Weld is probably quite similar. You might want to contact the manufacturer to be sure.
logandsawman
Well-Known Member
JB weld. I thought you would never ask. I use it all over with my model railroad because it sets up like plastic and is hard as a rock. It could be sanded, although it is very hard. It can be shaped with a knife after it is hard.
Check out this thread here and look at post 61 to see how it looks mixed up. There are several applications for the item in the thread.
http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/...293-Alternative-materials&p=331247#post331247
I also used it to protect my electrical contacts, as shown on the Dynamic Scenery thread. It will take some practice to use it, when you stir it together (I use a thoothpick) is is most liquid at first, and gradually stiffens. It will "flow" a little, too.
http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/forum/showthread.php?33416-Dynamic-Scenery/page5
There is a JBWeld product called waterweld that works in some hobby applications, too. It sets up hard in less time, like one hour, and makes an excellent tree. Shown in post 44 of the Dynamic Scenery thread. Probably more applications that I haven't thought of.
You could make a mold and pour it in to make a specific shape. I used it a lot to reinforce rolling stock and scratch build wood or Woodlands Scenic metal structures.
An electric drill or pin vise can make a clean hole in it after it is hard, 24 to 48 hours.
This is a tip of the iceberg. Have Fun !!!!!!! lasm
Check out this thread here and look at post 61 to see how it looks mixed up. There are several applications for the item in the thread.
http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/...293-Alternative-materials&p=331247#post331247
I also used it to protect my electrical contacts, as shown on the Dynamic Scenery thread. It will take some practice to use it, when you stir it together (I use a thoothpick) is is most liquid at first, and gradually stiffens. It will "flow" a little, too.
http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/forum/showthread.php?33416-Dynamic-Scenery/page5
There is a JBWeld product called waterweld that works in some hobby applications, too. It sets up hard in less time, like one hour, and makes an excellent tree. Shown in post 44 of the Dynamic Scenery thread. Probably more applications that I haven't thought of.
You could make a mold and pour it in to make a specific shape. I used it a lot to reinforce rolling stock and scratch build wood or Woodlands Scenic metal structures.
An electric drill or pin vise can make a clean hole in it after it is hard, 24 to 48 hours.
This is a tip of the iceberg. Have Fun !!!!!!! lasm
rlundy90
Armchair Engineer
I use 2 different JB Weld products. If I want a liquid type mix I use J-B Kwik. It is fluid and sets in 4 minutes. I use it a lot in RC plane building where you would normally use a 5 minute epoxy. This stuff is super strong. I use JB High heat epoxy putty if I want to be able to mold it. This has a working time of one hour. It takes up to 8 hours to cure enough to handle and 3 days for a full cure. Both can be drilled, tapped or sanded. I use a Dremel for sanding the stuff. Takes forever by hand. Ron
elsner203
Member
I have a magnesium crankcase/water pump cover for an old Honda dirt bike that is patched with JB Weld. That stuff is a life saver. I covered all the damage, and recreated the flow channels in the water pump cover with some simple hand tools and a Dremel.
Also, rlundy90 hit the nail on the head. JB High Heat and use the Dremel to sand it.
One problem I have discovered in using JB Weld on my bikes is that whoever attempted the repair job previously didn't do it right. If you're repairing a crack or some corrosion, you have to put JB Weld on the surface surrounding the repair. I've seen it happen so many time when people fill the cracks and the repair doesn't hold. Due to the small spaces and parts involved in MRR, this may not matter, but I would say it's something to keep in mind.
Also, rlundy90 hit the nail on the head. JB High Heat and use the Dremel to sand it.
One problem I have discovered in using JB Weld on my bikes is that whoever attempted the repair job previously didn't do it right. If you're repairing a crack or some corrosion, you have to put JB Weld on the surface surrounding the repair. I've seen it happen so many time when people fill the cracks and the repair doesn't hold. Due to the small spaces and parts involved in MRR, this may not matter, but I would say it's something to keep in mind.
Zeke Justice was a mentor and hero of mine when I was 30 or so. JB Weld was one of his concoctions. Once I bought a Fairlane Cobra Jet, driving it home is sounded weird. I bought it to part out so I found what was weird, there was a crack in a crank saddle. I called Zeke to talk about it, (1/2 block away in Monrovia Ca) and he laughed and said, be right over. He was, carrying a box about 6x6 inches (he had to be 65) He opened the box and pulled out a blister pack, then we went to look at the block. He said "no problem" mixed stuff out of the tubes and hunted for a ice cream stick. After he ate the ice cream he filled the crack and said "have the block done in a few days, it'll be OK". I was skeptical, but kept my mouth shut. That thing ran in our shop station wagon for at least 5 years and we all beat the hell out of that Ford..
Modeling with JBW is a snap just remember you don't want to sand it by hand, a die grinder is good, a dremel is harder, but OK. I still have JBW, that box is a quarter full. I miss a lot of folks. Zeke is certainly one of them.
Modeling with JBW is a snap just remember you don't want to sand it by hand, a die grinder is good, a dremel is harder, but OK. I still have JBW, that box is a quarter full. I miss a lot of folks. Zeke is certainly one of them.
D&J RailRoad
Professor of HO
My experience with JBw is that it is great for a filler but not for strength. It won't hold a screw for very long.
logandsawman
Well-Known Member
Maybe your hole was bad. I repaired a radiator using the item back in 1997, on a heavy piece of industrial equipment. This was a log skidder which took a painful beating in the woods every day, temps down to minus 40 f (not counting wind chill). I stuffed the stuff around a crack in the copper tubes using a toothpick, after thoroughly cleaning with brake cleaner.
When I sold the machine 13 years later, the patch did not crack or leak a drop. Not, that is a testimony.
lasm
