HO yard switches

[dpeterson3]

I'm playing with designing a new shelf layout (won't get built for a few years by a guy can dream). On my current layout, I have a fair sized yard, but I don't like how far apart my tracks are. They don't look as real as I would like. I have mostly #4 atlas turnouts and I have to curve the end of each yard track to get them to line up. I was looking into using Y turnouts to get the tracks a little closer, but I don't think that will actually work. What does everyone else use?

 

[ICG/SOU]

The higher the frog number, the closer the tracks are. However, the higher the frog number, the longer the turnout, and the more space robbed for holding rolling stock.

I used #6 in my yard, but inefficiently built the yard so that I don't have as much track as I could have in the ladders. Upon the redesign, I may to to Peco #5s for yard tracks.

Remember, too, that the closer the tracks are together, the harder it may be to rerail a car without bumping another car on an adjacent track. If this yard is used for staging, then you'll want space enough to put a car on the tracks with your hands.

 

[GrampysTrains]

I used all Atlas #6 Custom Line for my yard. DJ.

 

[RexHea]

Nothing wrong with having the yard tracks curve at the ends other than coupling could be a problem if the radii are too small. Assuming you are using a simple ladder design, have you considered a compound or simple compound design for the ladder? Sometimes this will allow less space in the ladder and more for the individual tracks. Yes, be careful about getting the distance between tracks too close. It can be a real PIA for uncoupling or having a derailed car.

 

[Selector]

I like the way #6 turnouts look and operate with my mix of rolling stock. It does mean shorter ladder tracks, unfortunately, and I didn't have much in the way of length to play with anyway. But, what I have works really well, and the spacing is realistic.

You can shorten turnouts, too, and you can get your spacing and length improved this way. Anything much beyond the frog point split is able to be pared back, or you can cut the ties and webbing and actually start a bit of a paralleling curve there. Do this with caution, though.