Getting Back Into Trains..N Scale Specific..Where To Begin!


sawacs

New Member
Hello gents!

I am looking at getting into N-Scale trains and have already had a hollow core door cut down from 36x80 to 36x66 ( I am only using 36x60 of the area) to harbor a nice track layout I found..

Btw, when I say getting back into trains, I mean I had an old HO scale train when I was 10 years old and it went loop de loop in a circle:)

Here is what I have so far

1. Track layout
2. Baseboard (hollow core door)
3. Motivation
4. Time

Now for the hard part..

First, I have been searching all over the net trying to figure out what style of rail to lay down and I am still stumped.. I would prefer the most realistic type that I can get and I hear that is code 55 type rail but I would like to get other folks opinions before I make the final plunge.

Second, what type of rail bedding would you recommend? There appears to be a few different types and I am not sure of which route to take. I know I could lay it down to the flat door base but I would prefer to model in some lakes or ponds by building the area up with foam. This leads to my other question... I checked lowes today for the hard blue or pink foam and they did not have any. Do you guys know where I could grab a few slabs of that stuff in say the 2" thick range?

Advice would be most appreciated....

Respectfully,

Sawacs
 
I'm not sure why your lowes or home depot did not have the stuff b/c I worked at a home depot and we for sure carried it. Most home improvement stores should have it I would try asking them. If they don't have it in stock odds are that they can order it in. I used to know prices but it's been too long but AFAIK that stuff isn't really very expensive.

Edit: Also, as far as track I am an HO guy but can tell you that I have had great experiences w/ Altas flex track. It is not off-the-wall expensive and I have never had a problem w/ trains on it. As far as turnouts go, you could use atlas flex w/ atlas turnouts or you could use atlas flex w/ peco turnouts (if the rails are a different code I know that there are special joiners to put them together in HO, not sure for N) or you could just go w/ peco all around. Or you could use something else. This forum has taught me that track preference is a very personal choice and in the end doesn't seem to make a lick of difference unless you get something that is complete crap. Many ppl will suggest many different types of track so I would say that your best option is to go to a LHS that has most of this stuff and look it over and pick what YOU think you want. That, I have found, is the only way to be happy in this hobby :D
 
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Quick...... take a look at Woodland Scenics web site and review the videos there. They show the use of Woodland Scenics Sub-Terrain layout system. It is GREAT. It is easy and very effective for the layout. Setting up hills, risers, tunnels, etc. it is great I used the regular sheet foam first and it was a bear. When I made some modifications to the layout I used the Sub-terrain system and it was great. Please check it out before you start to work.......Harlan....
 
From a fellow newbie: I'm useing the pink foam and wouldn't touch anything else! Keep looking till you find it (my Lowes didn't have it either - found it at Home Depot). I like it so much because it cuts very smoothly. Interesting side note: I grabbed the first thing I could find to cut it with which turned out to be a cheap serated letter open and I don't think you could invent a better tool. Long, thin, flexible, almost no crumbs. 2 bucks at the department store. Who'd a thiought. Gotta be serated though; the cheaper the better.

Hey, just to piggy back on your post: can anybody tell me why it was takes days (and days and days) for white glue to dry on that stuff. Seriously a week later I was pulling layers off (I use 1 inch) and finding wet glue under it. Is there something about foam that keeps white glue from drying? And what would a good alternative be?
 
Thanks for the feedback..

I have made the decision to go with Atlas code 55 track and utilize the code 55 flex when able.

Regarding the brand of loco or model, that is still all up in the air..

I did manage to find the pink foam at home depot but it only came in 1/2 and 3/4" thick pieces. I'll probably try and order a couple of the 2 in sheets later this week.

Cheers,

Shawn
 
White glue dries mostly by the water evaporating. The foam will not easily let moisture out so the glue dries slowly.
The foam also does not absorb the water out of the glue like wood or paper does.

Check out this layout build blog and note what he uses to attach foam together.
http://www.railwayeng.com/Newloop/index.htm

If you use an adhesive that 'cures' (doesn't require exposure to air) instead of 'dries' then it will set-up between layers of foam.
 
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Thanks for the feedback..

I have made the decision to go with Atlas code 55 track and utilize the code 55 flex when able.

Regarding the brand of loco or model, that is still all up in the air..

I did manage to find the pink foam at home depot but it only came in 1/2 and 3/4" thick pieces. I'll probably try and order a couple of the 2 in sheets later this week.

Cheers,

Shawn
I've been studying N scale for a couple months and pretty close to ordering track, locos, etc..

I like code 55 for the extra realism....and it's like prototypical track on busy routes....takes a bit more work and maybe less forgiving from what I've read anyway. Also not compatible with some older larger flange wheels. Should be fine with the newer locos and cars I will be using. :)

P.S. I should say that while I'll likely end up building a layout with code 55 later on.......I've found such better prices on atlas code 80 packages probably will begin with that to get going quickly on something to play with......while planning the big one.
 
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White glue dries mostly by the water evaporating. The foam will not easily let moisture out so the glue dries slowly.
The foam also does not absorb the water out of the glue like wood or paper does.

Check out this layout build blog and note what he uses to attach foam together.
http://www.railwayeng.com/Newloop/index.htm

If you use an adhesive that 'cures' (doesn't require exposure to air) instead of 'dries' then it will set-up between layers of foam.

Holy cow moo moo!

That guy hand built his rail system! I am gonna run far far away from getting that involved with the track..:D

Thanks for the link and the advice everyone.

I have finally made up my mind with regard to the train model.. However, it is between two different models:confused:

First: http://www.katousa.com/N/SD45/index.html

Second: http://www.intermountain-railway.com/n/nloco/nlocf7.htm

I am sure I will eventually decide..

The plan I am looking at is this one.. http://www.thortrains.net/nglayou1.html It is the sixth one down requiring 83 pieces of track. More than likely, it will turn out to be a variation of this plan..

Cheers!

Shawn
 
Holy cow moo moo!

That guy hand built his rail system! I am gonna run far far away from getting that involved with the track..:D

Thanks for the link and the advice everyone.

I have finally made up my mind with regard to the train model.. However, it is between two different models:confused:

First: http://www.katousa.com/N/SD45/index.html

Second: http://www.intermountain-railway.com/n/nloco/nlocf7.htm

I am sure I will eventually decide..

The plan I am looking at is this one.. http://www.thortrains.net/nglayou1.html It is the sixth one down requiring 83 pieces of track. More than likely, it will turn out to be a variation of this plan..

Cheers!

Shawn

Hand laying track isn't really that hard to do. But you could just use flex or even section track and adapt some of his building methods, particularly with the foam and scenery. Anyway the idea is to just have fun.
 
Gluing Foam

I use either Liquid Nails (be sure to get the type that is OK for foam) or cheap latex caulk. Unlike white glue, these products "cure" so "drying" is not a problem.

- Jeff
 



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