Getting back into it...need some assistance please


K

kurtg2020

New Member
I did some model railroading back sometime ago, and after 6 moves and 3 kids, I am now to the stage where I want to get back into it. Plus, when my 4 year old son loves trains and asks can we have a train set, I could not get to the storage shed fast enough to get my stuff back out. So I got everything out and hooked up a small oval on a sheet of plywood in the basement, it took some convincing, but I got it to work. I didn't clean anything, just straight out of the shed and went. Well, as you can imagine it was not as smooth as it once was. I did a search on here to see what I could do to get things to run smoother, but could not see anything. So here is what I know I have...
I have hundreds of feet of atlas track, I assume its brass because of the color, I had this given to me 15 years ago from a family. I bet most of it was bought in the 60's. I have all atlas switches, some are still in the packaging. What is the best way to clean the rails? Years ago, I had a track eraser, is that the route I should go again? My son and I, hopefully with help from my daughters are going to build a 4x8 layout. I have been looking at layouts, trying to find something with that we can run descent size trains on the mainline, but also have some switching opportunities. Because whats more fun the switching cars and delivering their load...nothing according to my son. So if anyone has a trackplan that might work and is willing to share, please do. I am going to upgrade to DCC becuase I am not very good with the wiring of blocks, and at this time, we will be running just two trains and my son loves the sounds, who am I kidding...I do too! I am not worried about laying the track because I have done it in the past, just looking for advice and tips to getting the old track clean and reliable so we can have some fun.
Thank you in advance.
 
Kurt, Welcome back. You fit the definition between a rock and a hard spot. Let's look at a few things. First, track is now not made from brass. I believe it is nickel silver. Less maintenance for sure. Brass is a nightmare. Cleanable with track eraser, but your cleaning job won't last long. Second, 1960, was a long time ago. Internal motors have made great strides in the last 50 years. I'm not sure that any of your old locos can be converted to DCC today. The cost and labor would cost more than you can buy a new loco for. Third, 4'x8' layouts are passé these days for the most part. Modern layout design is to build against two or three walls with a depth of not more than 30 inches. The ends can be larger to accommodate the turn around. The benefits of this design, especially for kids, is that the layout is accessible to them. It also takes up less room. My best advice is to go to a train store and check out what is available today. There are 'starter' sets available that while not the top of the line sound to me like a good investment for you. Few of us want to give up stuff and memories of good times gone, but if I were you I would start afresh. I see only problems using the old stuff you have. imho. Jim:)
 
Thanks for the reply Jim, I guess I should have been more clean. I don't plan on updating my old locomotives to DCC. Only one works, so I have to buy new anyway. As far as tracks go, I would really like to try and clean, mainly becuase of money. I would hate to get rid of all the track, but if its not realistic to clean the old track then I guess I have no choice.
 
Kurt, I understand about the money issues. Brass track tarnishes so easily and is not a great contuctor of electricity in the first place. I would suggest a test oval on a card table or something that you can try to see how long brass will stand up in your home environment. Also, if you have a train store you can get to buy a simple piece of Atlas track just to lay in the middle of the oval. I think in as little as a week you may have to deal with the brass. Jim:)
 
kurtg2020 said:
I did a search on here to see what I could do to get things to run smoother, but could not see anything. I have hundreds of feet of atlas track, I assume its brass because of the color, I had this given to me 15 years ago from a family. I bet most of it was bought in the 60's. I have all atlas switches, some are still in the packaging. What is the best way to clean the rails?
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I would start with simple rubbing alcohol. Then I would try some of the electrically conductive lubricant. If the track is really bad and that doesn't work, then I would go for some sort of abrasive (like 1200 grit wet/dry sand paper). The entire population of HO hobbyists successfully used brass track for over 50 years without half the issues people claim it causes. I've slowly been accumulating pieces for which I am someday going to make a layout with. The more important thing would be to get new rail joiners for it.

My son and I, hopefully with help from my daughters are going to build a 4x8 layout. I have been looking at layouts, trying to find something with that we can run descent size trains on the mainline, but also have some switching opportunities. Because whats more fun the switching cars and delivering their load...nothing according to my son. So if anyone has a trackplan that might work and is willing to share, please do.
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Let me know approximately what pieces of track you have and I can see what I can work them into.

Here is an out-and-back 4x8 that I agonized over for a whole summer before I built it for my son. It has the advantage of one person being able to run the yard while the other is out running on the main. Full yard plus 3 industrial sidings out on the "main". One could cram in more tracks if desired.
contest%202%20scenery.jpg

And one I designed for one of the SpaceMouse contests several years ago. No yard, but a more interesting switching area.
contest%201%20scenery%20small.jpg
 
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Don't mean to get of topic here but WOW Horseman - that first design is excellent ... what scale is it if I may ask? I am assuming HO as this is the HO forum. If it is then, where in heck were you when I was trying to design my wife's layout :)
 
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I tried the 4x8 several years ago. You can stuff a lot of track using 18" curves on a 4x8. One problem is that you need access all the way around a 4x8 to be able to reach all areas of the layout. About 30" is the max comfortable reach for an adult.

I would suggest a 96"x40" with the center 2 feet cut back to about 30" deep so the front will be depressed in and the back straight across. This will allow you to make a "dog bone" shape where you can reach all areas from the front and sides. Now you place the back up against a wall and not eat up so much floor space. 40" will give enough space to make 18" curves at both ends with a little margin around the edge.

Sorry I don't have a drawing. If you are interested let me know and I'll try to explain the idea better.
 
Kurt2020tg:

Cleaning the track is your number one priority. Second is making sure you have good joints-and expect to buy new joiners. Third, if you haven't done this already, use new wire to connect your power pack to the track. Fourth, clean the wheels on your loco! Rubbing alcohol on a qtip type is good for wheels and I've used it on track if a clean rag isn't available.

Abrasives like the track eraser are the last choice, but don't be afraid to use one if you have to.

Getting your kid interested is a nice way to get back into the hobby.
 
wombat457 said:
Don't mean to get of topic here but WOW Horseman - that first design is excellent ... what scale is it if I may ask? I am assuming HO as this is the HO forum. If it is then, where in heck were you when I was trying to design my wife's layout :)
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Yes it is HO. As I recall you went from posting a first design to laying track in about a week. :) As I implied, once I decided to do this for my son it took me about 3 months of fitting, compromising, changing, and adapting to finalize the design. One of the benefits is that I still like the design today even after many years of enjoyable operation with it.
 
Well, we got a small oval going with a few sidings. I have used some alcohol to get the trains running better, but not great. However at least they are running and my son is having a great time. I have been thinking about my future layout and I think I am going to go for a dogbone type. That way we can get in the middle, if I get someone some dimensions, we someone be willing to help me with track plans? I have downloaded a few free software programs, but I have not had time to figure them out. Thanks for the help so far.
a87b52f8ad4877c191e288a032498471.jpg
 
Horseman,

Granted, from design to laying of track was pretty quick, not sure if was as quick as a week but it wasn't long that's for sure. I'm not disappointing with my layout, but now I can see I could have done more than I did and would certainly do it differently today using the same bench work. That, I suppose, is the learning curve :)

Sphinx,

Not sure I would agree with the 30" reach you suggested. Reach cannot be, and should not be, based on a generalization. Two main things apply when ascertaining a comfortable reach:

1. Height of the bench work, and
2. Height of the individual.

I am 6' with a reach of 30" when standing upright. Leaning over (comfortably) my reach becomes almost 50", with comfort. My wife, on the other hand, is 5' 1" (at a push). Simple math shows that her reach is going to be considerably less.

Secondly, it is not the depth of the bench work that is important ONLY the positioning of the track work. If an individual (and it is an individual thing) has a reach of 30" then so long as their track work is no further than 30" from the edge of the layout, it doesn't matter if their bench work is 32", 35" or 50" so long as they use common sense when doing their scenery.
 
Thanks for the help guys. I have gotten the trains to run smooth with some alcohol..for the track and me:eek: I have been thinking about my layout plans and think I am going to go more towards a dogbone type layout. I am thinking with my son, it will allow for more hands on operation for him. So I am looking for plans, if anyone has any. I searched for a little bit this morning, but could not find any. I have about 10' long to work with, and I would like a loop at both ends for the trains to come back. After running trains for 2 hours this afternoon, some sort of yard is necessary. As you can see, he is a happy boy. Thanks again.
. 20150104_164146.jpg
 
Wombat457,

Sorry if my generalization was too general. I'm 6 feet tall but don't like to lean over any existing structures to work on, modify or fix anything behind it. Maybe I'm just too clumsy! kurtg2020 will have his son working with him in the days to come, and his reach will be rather limited in the beginning. I was just offering a suggestion based on my experience and comfort level. Your mileage my vary.

Neither of my sons became interested in model trains - I can only assume because they did not have a video screen or MP3 hooked up to them.

Anyway have fun with your trains even if it is just some ez track on the kitchen table.
 
Here is a rather crude pic of my 16x5 double dog bone drawing. It could be modified to fit a 10x4. The outer loop is elevated about 6" in the back to give some depth. The small red oval is some n scale track for the mine cars. The HO radius are mostly 18" so Atlas sectional track could be used. The crossover is Walters. My actual layout is code 87 mostly Atlas flex track and turnouts. I'm running Dual cab DC one on each loop.

Cedar Cove 29.jpg
 
sphinx said:
Wombat457,

Sorry if my generalization was too general. I'm 6 feet tall but don't like to lean over any existing structures to work on, modify or fix anything behind it. Maybe I'm just too clumsy! kurtg2020 will have his son working with him in the days to come, and his reach will be rather limited in the beginning. I was just offering a suggestion based on my experience and comfort level. Your mileage my vary.

Neither of my sons became interested in model trains - I can only assume because they did not have a video screen or MP3 hooked up to them.

Anyway have fun with your trains even if it is just some ez track on the kitchen table.
Click to expand...

No problem sphinx. Just wanted to clarify, what I see as misconceptions about minimums and maximums when it comes to reach and so forth. Wasn't an attack on you or anything like it - or at least, it wasn't suppose to be.

Fact is, I don't like having to reach over things either, don't really think anyone does to be honest. I don't like it because when I get focused on what I am doing, I forget about what is between me and what I am doing. Normally that has dire results and one reason why very little (scenery wise) is permanently fixed to the layout at the moment. :)
 
Tony, no offence taken - clarifications and corrections are always welcome - sometimes my fingers and my brain don't sync-up and sometimes my brain just spews rubbish.
 
Kurgt2020, a little more information on the drawing. There are 4 sections, each 4 feet wide. This was to facilitate assembly and if I ever have to move again at least there are manageable sections (I have destroyed 2 previous layouts because of moving). I have this pushed up to a wall on the back side but it is on wheels so I can to the back side as needed. With the dog bone design, even though the main track rest close to the edge for the majority of the layout, the train does not appear to be setting right on the edge to me. The left side outer loop is mostly in a tunnel starting about the 45 degree angle and running to the straight run on the back, there is a 6" elevation from start to middle of the back where the river goes under the track. This allows for the train to disappear and seem to be going somewhere other than just around the table. The left side of the inner loop is also in a tunnel but it kept level. Above the tunnels is a mountain with a mine scene. This is what I working on now. The green track is a spur for the mine, its at 6" level.

If you have any questions let me know.
 
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