Firetacoma's Build Thread


Yes, you can use PC boards for tie replacements. You can also use thin styrene like about .010 or .020. Either would be fine so use what you're most comfortable working with. As you say, once they are painted and the ballast is down, you wont really notice them no matter what material you use. When I've gotten really lazy, I just add extra ballast or weeds to the gap, depending on if it's a main line or siding and even that becomes barely noticable unless you're looking for it.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Uh-oh! Now trouble starts. First it's one engine, then another, and before you know it, you've got 25 of the darn things and are constanly changing engines just so they don't get arthritis from sitting a a shelf. :) Good looking first engine and good luck on the structure.
 
I know! I'm already wanting more! And more rolling stock. And more structures! I am keeping a running total of all of my purchases for this hobby and it will be interesting to see how much even a small layout costs. Thanks for all of the advice you have given me up to this point! Sometimes a little reassurance is all that's needed to press ahead with the steps that seem impossible!
 
Yes sir the empire starts . Looks good so far and that engine is a winner!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
As much or as little as you want to invest in it. Some cost in the thousands of dollars . I agree with Nievo would be afraid to add up the purchases !
 
Another update!
DCC is installed! Trains are running!
http://achurnside.googlepages.com/home

I do have one issue. I have one turnout that causes a short... the main route is fine but going into the diverging route I get a short. Not sure how to go about figuring out the issue... suggestions?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Fire, I couldn't see much in that video except the engine going up that spur and getting some cars. I'm not clear on what you were doing or how your did the switching without getting the engine trapped between the cuts of cars.

As far as the shorting swich, it's probably shorting right at the frog where a wheel is touch both lines at the same tiem. The temporary fix is to get some clear nail polish and paint it right over the frog where the rails come together. If that fixes the problem, we've now identified the cause and there are some simple wiring tricks to fix it permanantly
 
Yeah, not the best video. I wanted to get something up with some movement though.

I found the cause of the short, the switch is causing a derailment in the diverging position. I've spent about an hour playing around with it and couldn't get it figured out. I may end up replacing that turnout as I'm at my wits end!
 
Fire, try two things. Use a small flat file and file the point on the diverging route so it's sharp and absolutely level with the stock track. Second, file the frog so it come together in a sharp point. Make sure your guard rails are clean and in gauge and that you have a slight curve in the outside rail of the diverging route. A lot of switches come with the diverging route rail too straight when it's supposed to be a slight curve. Just a slight bend in that rail can work wonders. I'll bet I've spent at least an hour on each of my switches tuning them up and I'll bet your problem is not hard to fix once you find it.
 
Yeah, I've been slowly attacking it with the file and sandpaper... I THINK I'm getting close... just tedious!

I also built my first structure today! Painting N scale structures is an exercise in stability! I didn't realize my hands shook so bad!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.



Back
Top