Finished with bench work


V

varillon

Member
I just completed the bench for my layout. After I get a few supplies, I may have to add a wedge to extend the corners out just a little for turns, but I've managed to have room for 25" radius curves on the large squares with an additional 2.5" of space. Here's some shots to show what my blood, sweat, and tears have gone into the last few days.

Oh, and I wasn't able to have 30" shelves. There just wasn't room. They are 20" now.

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p291/moondok777/20081123_0036.jpg

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p291/moondok777/20081123_0037.jpg

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p291/moondok777/20081123_0038.jpg

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p291/moondok777/20081123_0040.jpg
 
I looks like it will do. I hope it will withstand a sudden grab for support if you should stumble. This is especially so for the added boards on the perimeter.

Your second image suggests you have a slight grade upwards toward the right along the wall where your section of board meets the slabe of plywood. It may not present a problem, but if you are new to track laying, I think it will present a problem.

Also, the boards you have added to the perimeter here and there to extend your curve radii is a good idea. Just one important thing...where you draw your centerline for your right of way, you should grind down, or sand, any disparities in the surface at the joins. It appears from your photos that the boards are somewhat thicker than the ply, and you have a high lip there between them. You don't have to make the entire lenth of the meet the same height, just the width of the roadbed wherever it crosses those places so that the ties lie consistently with the average grade.

I hope that makes sense. You want to avoid kinks in either horizontal or vertical axes because the really make life tough for your engines, their couplers, and for all the cars and couplers between them that follow.
 
It's funny. That upward slant caught my eye as well when I was taking the shots, but I got down on my knees to get a line of sight, and I don't think it is off more than a quarter inch if that. My dyslexia throws off my depth perception, didn't know it could do that but oh well. Anyway, I am always seeing things off a little until I pull out the squares and levels. On top of that, I was setting up the back wall shelves, and the funniest thing happened. I couldn't get the board to line up with the wall. I was about to curse when I realized it was the wall itself that rippled LOL!

I was thinking about the ply and shelf wood lining up as well. For the most part, I used pieces of 2x4 underneath to at least help even up everything. It's not too bad anywhere, but I'll definitely pay attention to where the tracks are going.

Everything is pretty solid. I pressed down on the weakest point (middle of the back wall) and it barely gave. You can't see it, but there are tons of little support pieces throughout. Anything that gave or jiggled got an upgrade. I'll also skirt the whole thing with dark material for looks and also as a visual boundary. You are less likely to step under the bench if something is in the way.

What did you mean by if I'm new to track laying, the upward slant might cause me problems? I rather be prepared.

Thanks for the comments. If I run into trouble, I'll definitely give a shout.
 
When you lay track the change from flat to grade has to be very gentle as well when you turn on a grade or when you flatten back out at the top of the grade. This can cause many problems with coupler rub and cars binding up and derailing. Not trying to speak for Selector but that is what I think he was pointing out and i noticed as well.

I see lots of sawhorse legs and those are fine. I would recommend that you use 1x3s to go across the bottoms about 4" off the floor to lock the legs where they wont move or shift. I would do them were they make an "A" and across from set to set as well where possible. They tend to walk or lean over time if you dont.

Good Luck and good start and remember to have fun.
 
I see what you mean. I'll have to watch for any elevation. In fact, I'll pull out my level tomorrow, and do a thorough check. I will probably use wood putty to smooth any joints unless there's a better suggestion. Making an A out of the saw horse legs is a good idea as well.
 
I noticed your grade changes as well. I would recommend that you tack some track down in those areas and run some cars over it so you can get a solid understanding about grade transitions. They should work the same as curve transitions so your rolling equipment operates smoothly without jerking into a turn or uncoupling on grade changes.
You will appreciate a smooth running layout when you put the time in now to do the foundation properly.
 
Got the cross pieces on the legs. After putting a level on everything, I was pleasantly surprised that only 2 points on the bench were slightly off. I don't think it's enough to cause problems, though. I pulled a screw out and drove it back in for a tighter fit on one board and put some pressure on the other point which actually made a small difference. Unless anyone has a better suggestion, I'll probably use wood putty for the seams where track will be laid. Now I'm just waiting on a couple of orders to come in. I haven't been this excited in years :D
 
It is important that your seams be perfectly level (even) with each other. Close enough will not get it. I once made that mistake and ended up with a slight hump that caused unwanted uncoupling. All you have to do is sand the area where the track will lay. A small orbital sander will make short work of it, but a sanding block works just fine. ;)
 
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varillon said:
Got the cross pieces on the legs. After putting a level on everything, I was pleasantly surprised that only 2 points on the bench were slightly off. I don't think it's enough to cause problems, though. I pulled a screw out and drove it back in for a tighter fit on one board and put some pressure on the other point which actually made a small difference. Unless anyone has a better suggestion, I'll probably use wood putty for the seams where track will be laid. Now I'm just waiting on a couple of orders to come in. I haven't been this excited in years :D
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I wouldn't worry about the wood putty. Your road bed will be covering that so ya can't see the joint. You might consider using the flexible wall plaster that you can buy in pint, quart or 5 gallon bucket for the scenery. Some old metal window screen material tacked down to odd pieces of wood will provide landscape. Mix earth tone paint with the plaster so white doesn't show if you should chip it. Smear it on thick, then go over it a second time with plaster that is thinned out enough to apply with a paint brush to fill in the cracks. Don't worry about an exact match of paint. Mother nature isn't exact in the earth tones either.
 
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