faised sections plus flip ups or flip downs.

[jfb]

I cut 2 areas for a flip up and a flip down and I need to have a raised section along wall mounts. the question is how are you guys getting perfect track alignment for the flip ups,downs and what would you use along wall studs to raise a well detailed board 33 to 50 plus inches. I am really at a serious point and everything has to be precise and the pulley system for the raised section has been researched also please advise who would sell the parts hardware store etc.

 

[Selector]

Nothing like you describe will work very well for long, or line up every time. So, you need something firm and largely immobile that can be pegged into holes on which you rest your lifted item. Below the lifted/swung item, you use tiny screws with big heads as bearings. You insert them driving them up into the wood, and then screw them in or out half a turn until your rail gaps meet at the right height. For side-to-side alignment, use retainers that act like channelers or cams.

 

[RBMNfan]

I have never seen a flip up because the gap between the rails would be huge unless you get extended hinges. Having said that, a few have used flip downs for decades. They can finicky to maintain. If your space is not temperature and humidity controlled then wood will expand and contract causing problems.
I have used a simple piece of wood with track on it as a bridge. I notched the 'banks ' of the aisleway to hold it in alignment. I use steel studs and foam so contraction and expansion were minimal . It was a switching district and speeds were low. It was an experience, one that I would not try for high speed mainline trackage. I would try to build as much as I could with more conventional methods.
The simplest solution would be to try what they call a cassette. It's common among European modelers. If you made the angles overhang the nonmoving parts then it would be easy to get the alignment correct.

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[montanan]

Here's what I did for a drop down section of my hidden staging area. It isn't along a wall though. It could give you an idea for track alignment. I put this up well over 25 years ago as a temporary fix but being that it worked, and is still working, why change it.



In the second picture you can see a couple of triangular scraps of wood that I screwed to the facia. These align the tracks up with no problem as they are slightly angled towards the top. The slide bolts lock the bridge in place when it is up. The piano hinge on the other side automatically keeps the tracks in alignment. This drop down section allows for continuous running for me if desired, but I mainly use these tracks for hidden staging for inbound and outbound trains for my point to point operation.

 

[jfb]

on the flip down I was thinking a under the table barrel lock for height locked in place when needed and flat screws insulated for holding the track in position inner and outer respectively insulated with liquid electrical tape and both track sides. I still need feedback on raising that other section I was thinking vertical file cabinet runners placed properly on the studs 32 to over 50 inches high and lockable of course. I have a carefully detailed steel mill board going in 31x 76 inches and a flip up seems rather dangerous considering the time and cost for it. I appreciate the feedback and please give your true opinion you have been there before and I still have a learning curve at this point. jfb

 

[jfb]

I forgot to add this point. I used flat computer board over hanging both boards for a electrical connection and merging point glued and bolted in place with flat screws and a thin mate point between them and the track is cut at a angle and 3 ties taken off both sides where the track lays over the computer circuit board metal for conductivity. please give honest feedback I still have a learning curve at this point jfb. I would also like to know if the file cabinet idea sounds good and who might sell them I have a menards 2 blocks from my house and could not get a answer about it from them and a home depot 1.5 miles from me.

 

[jfb]

by the way the screws would center the tracks inner and outer and to avoid shorts I am using liquid electrical tape. this is what I would like to do to center all and both board sides. the flat screws would also avoid, and the inside track ones I am talking about would avoid having the train bottoms scrape and jump track. the liquid electrical tape would avoid the electricity short circuiting because after all electricity always looks for the shortest path too ground period. thanks again this is a big year for me I am well over 150 hrs in this fall alone. weekends and evenings since mid September everything not just module boards will be up and running by mid January and I still have a small spaghetti incident ie wiring and a master control board to finish up, 18 switches 5 mainlines and 48 total lights and 5 signals. I am stoked and will post pictures hopefully in late January early February I am hoping for no more of darwins theory stepping in and I did this alone. the boards run fantastically alone but now will be fully mated and all of the screws will be covered with brush moss etc. the rest is detailed already and only small in my eyes of course fascia work to go.

 

[jfb]

Here's what I did for a drop down section of my hidden staging area. It isn't along a wall though. It could give you an idea for track alignment. I put this up well over 25 years ago as a temporary fix but being that it worked, and is still working, why change it.

View attachment 53376View attachment 53377

In the second picture you can see a couple of triangular scraps of wood that I screwed to the facia. These align the tracks up with no problem as they are slightly angled towards the top. The slide bolts lock the bridge in place when it is up. The piano hinge on the other side automatically keeps the tracks in alignment. This drop down section allows for continuous running for me if desired, but I mainly use these tracks for hidden staging for inbound and outbound trains for my point to point operation.

View attachment 53378View attachment 53379

nice work I am using flat bent computer boards for conductivity over hanging please keep your comments coming on this post I want to do this once and not wreck expensive equipment and waste valuable time. that hinge there serves 2 purposes conductivity and its real function too bad I could not find them around me. I am also using flat fuse panels bent for conductivity when needed.

 

[RBMNfan]

One thing that would be smart to build in is a failsafe in the electrical circuit. Have power cut off ~3' before the edge, unless the bridge is up. Otherwise someone can run a train off the edge.

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[jfb]

hey guys thanks so far I am needing to finish up late in the week please keep the suggestions coming I am always looking for a more solid bulletproof way of doing things. your ideas are fantastic on this sight and I still need some suggestions on those file cabinet runners for a lift board the electricals are easy for that a quick disconnect.

 

[montanan]

Have you thought about drilling a hole between the ties and inserting a dowel or peg into the hole a few inches before the drop down section? You could keep it on a short tether right at the drop down section and insert it when you drop down the bridge. In 25 years I have been lucky enough not to have had anything do a crash and burn to the floor. Under normal operating for me, the bridge is in the down position. My drop down section is only put up when I want to run a train continuously around the layout, which I don't do very often.

My layout is a point to point and these tracks are mainly hidden staging tracks for inbound and outbound trains.

 

[jfb]

using wooden dowels seems excellent also that I have in the house already and I can easily insert, I am using construction foam under my work for fascia work. please keep the ideas coming guys I need ideas for that lift up on my steel board and a pulley system has been researched already but it is ugly in nature how about file cabinet slides? these seem clean and can be place correctly for heights needed.