Do you add glazing to your windows?


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NP2626

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I do see photos all the time of buildings, Cabooses, locomotives and other track-side items where people have failed to add glazing to their windows. This really is a very easy modeling addition to fix and adds real authenticity to your models! I use clear plastic File protectors for glazing material. I have used many types of glue/cement to attach to the interior walls of what ever it is I want to add windows to. Lately have settled on Hob-E-Tac or Woodland Scenics Scenic's Accent Glue. I apply the glue to the inside where the window will be attached with a tooth pick and place the window into the wet glue, pushing down on the center of the window, which pushes the glue away from the edges of the windows. After setting up, this method holds the windows in place, very strongly! I love how as a caboose rolls by, you see the glint of the window flashing as the light hits it. buildings look far more realistic with glazing in their windows. Try it, you will never go back to adding a model to your layout that doesn't have glazing in your windows.

I credit Cody Grivno with the suggestion of using Hob-E-Tac; or, Woodland Scenic's Accent Glue on a tooth pick. I'm guessing he's not the originator.
 
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I didn't know that there were folks that didn't glaze windows. I always glaze mine, but I am predisposed because I worked in the window manufacturing business for 43 years! I have used Woodland Scenic's Accent Glue not because I read or heard about it, but as an experiment about 20 years ago. Haven't tried Hob-E-Tac yet, but I have some and might have something left (un-built) that I can still use it on. I cut up the styrene packaging from Atlas switches to provide material for glazing.

Willie
 
I like Willie, always add glazing to any windows in buildings or any rolling stock before they go on the layout.
 
I add glazing to my buildings either using the materials supplied with the kit or use a glazing compound, that is much like white glue, that dries semi-transparent. I use this only on the smaller window panels.

Where I install the kit supplied materials, I sometimes paint the interior side either with black or green spray paint. I install the glazing using Canopy Glue which dries clear and will not attack the plastic.

Haven't installed any window glazing on rolling stock since of the rolling stock has the glazing already installed.

Greg
 
I add windows to everything. I use a small drop of Gorilla Glue, or a couple small drops opposing each other.

I also use a variety of materials, there is almost always some left over glazing from my building kits, I have an envelope that I keep them in.
 
One more vote for glazing. I also paint the interiors of buildings black and install floors in multi-story buildings. I'll be adding lights and window treatments to future projects.
 
I always add glazing. Usually clear styrene but also microscope slide glass, or even canopy glue if the location is awkward for conventional methods.
 
Yes, I always add window glazing. In my opinion it is the one biggest single improvement someone can make to their structures and equipment with windows.
 
I was going to recommend microscope slide covers, but Espeefan beat me to it. For foreground structures, it's the best.
 
Aren't microscope slides actually made from glass? How much do they cost and why do you feel they are better than clear plastic?
 
They are actually microscope slide covers. They are real glass and are very thin, .15mm approximately, or .006". Looks like real glass (well it is!) up close. Better is a matter of individual perception. You're limited to flat glazing and limited sizes. Using the three foot rule, I can't tell the difference...my opinion only.

Willie
 
NP2626 said:
And so, how do you cut to size?
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Glass cutter is how I cut glass, but I was in the window industry and had access to one. They are available at hardware stores, Home Depot and Amazon, among other places. They're usually less than $5.

Willie
 
NP2626 said:
And so, how do you cut to size?
Click to expand...

I purchased a box of slide covers and a glass cutting scribe from Clover House years ago. I still have that scribe, but get glass from other sources. Clover House (now under new ownership, like many small model railroad suppliers) sells a scribe from General Tools :

GlassScribe.jpg

I find it easier to use than any of the standard glass cutters, of which I have 4 different styles (stained glass crafting days). Otherwise, its the same process as cutting glass for a window or picture frame: score the glass and snap.

PS: Here's an example of the cover glass: http://www.amscope.com/microscope-glass-cover-slides-coverslips-of-100-pieces-pre-cleaned-24mm-x-50mm.html?gclid=CjwKEAiArIDFBRCe_9DJi6Or0UcSJAAK1nFvmMEYkB-3VLySAtYFhAk0WrOwxKNEgvfd59ICX5SknBoCjWXw_wcB

Glass.jpg
 

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Do you cut the glass to fit the individual panes, or does the glass just fit over the window?

I'm not going to fault anyone for how they go about adding glazing to windows. However, other than the glue to glue my windows in place, my way is uses free materials I have on hand. I like free! I have used it on steam engine cabs, cabooses, passenger cars and structures. I have purchase some colored file folder/protectors that where colored when I needed green or blue clerestory window glazing; but, other than that, all my glazing materials have been stuff i have gotten free.
 
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I too use the Testors Clear Parts Cement on clear plastic glazing. I try to use it sparingly in the corners, but sometimes it doesn't work out as well as I wanted it to. I've had it leave marks in paper blinds/ drapes.

However, if you're looking for a bottle glass effect, it works well by itself on small windows. Get the sides of the window wet with the cement and fill it in by squeezing the container. It works sorta like blowing bubbles. If it bursts, wipe it off and try again. Sometimes you will find that it bursts later and that too can be either filled in or wiped off and redone.

I've also had luck using Elmer's white glue.
 
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2014223232124_detail%201[1].jpgI use real glass for all my glazing, unless it has to be curved. If you are detailing the interior of a passenger car, locomotive or structure, the glass will give you a much better view than the plastic will, especially if it is lit. It is easy to cut once you get the hang of it. I use a General Scribe like the one in a previous post, to cut the glass. Besides the microscope slide covers, I also use glass 35 mm slide covers for bigger windows. Here's a pic of a structure wall with real glass installed. The glass also won't dry out and craze later on like plastic sometimes does.
 
Rlundy90, I have some pretty old plastic glazing that looks as good as the day I installed it. I've never had it craze like you describe. I go for my much simpler process. However, my guess is, your way gives you the results your after. What do hold the glass in with?
 
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I've used stuff I got free and I've bought stuff. Most structure kits include glazing material these days, and often it's even laser cut and ready to install. Some purists in the Craftsman Kit forums will tell you nothing looks better than real glass. I bought some microscope slide covers and a diamond tipped scribe off of Amazon. The stuff wasn't very expensive and will last me until my heirs take possession of it. E-bay also carries both. One thing the slide covers do really well is broken windows!
 
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