Cutting gaps in Fast Tracks switches


D

DALDEI

Member
I've made a few Fast Tracks switches (www.handlaidtrack.com) and am now looking forward to making a *lot* more (20+).

One problem I have is cutting the gaps in the frog and rail sections that need gapping. The directions have me use a jewelers saw. This works and produces a very nice clean small cut, but its a royal pain ! I have incredible trouble with this tiny saw blade. I tend to break them about ever other cut, they hang up in the cuts easy and its just plain difficult. For me the most difficult part of the entire switch building.

I was wondering if anyone has had success with other techniques ? A Dremel cutter comes to mind. That would be *easy*. I know it would make the gap a lot bigger, but does that really matter ? I could fill it with epoxy or glue or just leave it floating. Any other suggestions ?

Thanks !

-David Lee
 
I haven't done it yet but when I do I am going to try a scroll saw, assuming I can get a metal cutting blade for it.
 
I used a fine-toothed Zona saw. (Not the X-acto brand). I press down on the track with a 2x2 block of steel 1/2-inch thick as a cutting guide. Make sure spikes are on both sides of the place where you cut the gap. Cut them on a hot day too if you can so the rails are already in expansion.


Dremels make a mess tossing grinding-particles everywhere. Little metal gremlins that cause problems later on. Also you need a grinding disc larger in diameter than the Dremel if you want your gaps to be vertical and not leaning. The standard size discs are not big enough. I tried the larger disc (inch and a half I think) but it was too difficult and dangerous to control in that situation.

Whatever you use practice on scrap track first.
 
Charles, there is a way, well two, to keep the all the advantages of the tiny gaps that a jeweler's saw has to offer:

Practice, of course...do it often. Oh, you got that one covered? :D

Keep the saw filament in fairly stiff tension. When you push against it midway along its anchored length, it should deflect sideways about 1/16", and not much more.

Thirdly ( I thought I said there were only two..:confused:), you must start the blade cut with a draw movement guided by a thumbnail. You place the tip of your thumbnail down against the blade and draw the blade toward you at least four times. Carefully lift the blade, thrust the implement away from you, lay the filament gently against your thumb, and draw again. Repeat. Once you have a decent groove started, you can then start a sawing motion, and you should use 80% of the filament in each direction.

Okay, now we're at #4..:rolleyes:...only the weight of the apparatus is to be brought to bear on the rail. It's soft metal anyway, but if you are breaking filaments often it means one of two things, probably a lot of both concurrently: yaw away from the direction of sawing motion (your handle drifts sideways and it kinks the filament in its groove), and you are rushing the effort. Let the filament do its job and you do yours. What you do is start the cut properly as I have suggested, and then focus on keeping the frame of the saw oriented very closely to the axis of motion. Just keep the frame from tilting or the handle from going sideways, and if you can let the filament do the rest, you'll break very few filaments.

I bought two bags of filaments five years ago when I ordered the saw, and have broken exactly one filament. That leaves 7 filaments in the opened bag and the other bag unopened.

I would urge you to make it a point of learning how to do this effectively. It should be an item of practice for the next few days, and do about 15 saw-throughs of rail until you 'get it'. The results on your finished product should be the pudding at the end of it.

Of course, if you have physical problems that effectively prevent you from developing the technique, you'll have to try something else.
 
Thanks so much for the posts. I dont think I can use a miter box & saw or any kind of normal saw because at the point I need to cut the rail (surrounding the frogs) there is rail to the sides of it You need something to go *in between* 2 ties and cut 2 interrier rails without cutting the outside rails.

For the seriously curious I got a reply from Terry Firth at Fast Tracks with similar advise to "Selector" and refered me to this video which I'd watched before but obviously missed something



http://www.handlaidtrack.com/videos-a/144.htm?video=6WEB2xsIt3w&title=Cutting The Rail Gaps


What I was *missing* is that theres a *tension adjustment* on the Zona Jewelers saw ! DUH !!!! I think I had the blade too loose so it would wiggle around in the cut and bind up.

I'm going to take the advise and practice a few more on scrap track then give it another try. Thanks for the caution on the dremmel. The above video warns that dremels may get the track so hit it unsolders the ajacent joints, but I didnt realize until I think about it now, that it will not create a vertical gap ... and the width is quite wide.

Thanks all ! Much appreciated.
 
Selector,

I think you missed my meaning. The Zona saw I use is shown below. It's only 15/1000th thick. You need to use ABS plastic 0.015" thick to fill the thin gaps or they will close up and touch on a hot day. I use the gray Plastruct type.

This saw has a very small blade height of around 0.45" and a very stiff spine. And thus, it does not flex like some cheaper other brands. I won't use Xacto brand versions any more - just true Zona..
 
It may sound weird but cutting the turnout gaps I use a really fine tooth blade in the jeweler's saw. The finer teeth don't hang up on the web of the rail. The blade should sing when it is plucked.

Harold
 
Charles Smiley said:
Selector,

I think you missed my meaning. The Zona saw I use is shown below. It's only 15/1000th thick. You need to use ABS plastic 0.015" thick to fill the thin gaps or they will close up and touch on a hot day. I use the gray Plastruct type.

This saw has a very small blade height of around 0.45" and a very stiff spine. And thus, it does not flex like some cheaper other brands. I won't use Xacto brand versions any more - just true Zona..
Click to expand...

Charles, I apologize....I had a brain fart and addressed my remarks to you instead of to the gentleman who initiated the thread. :eek:

Crandell
 
Crandell,

OK I get it now. I was trying to figure out what I may have said that was unclear. :confused:

But the good thing is that it got me to post the photo of my favorite gapping-saw.:D


Happy Thanksgiving All...

Chas.
 
Thank for the suggestions ! I had *success* ... The missing link the whole time was the tension, now that I got it tight I had no problems.

Charles: I like that tool and will probably get one ! But ... the use case I have even a .45 in blade height is too tall. I need about .1 (maybe .15) in blade height to get in between the frog and stock rail.
 
Charles Smiley said:
Selector,

You need to use ABS plastic 0.015" thick to fill the thin gaps or they will close up and touch on a hot day. I use the gray Plastruct type.
Click to expand...

Another trick is to use epoxy. It can be filed down when dry and will expand and contract with the rail as temperatures vary.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.



Back
Top