Bring plastic together


OBS

Structure Fan
What do y'all use to glue it together? I've been using a superglue, but it's a little messy and dries so darn quick that I end up getting 'spider webs' all over the place.

I was considering a hot glue gun, but figured I'd throw it out to the pros.
 
There are many kinds of CA (super glue) some dry fast and some slow, some thicker and some thin. There are tons of kinds of plastic cement. You have to find one you like. If you search this site I can think of 2 or 3 threads on different types of glues and uses.
 
super glues (CA)drys fast,med or slow depending on the type you buy, the down fall is that when dry the joint is brittle. Contact cement melts the plastic and is stronger in the long run. I use the old orange tube testors for strong bonds and the super glues for quick fixes.

Trent
 
I use a combo of Testers cement (nice and thick, holds well) and various liquid cement (flows between joints, dries quickly)
I use ca for non compatible materials and white glue for porous materials.
Best thing is buy a few kinds and see what works for you.
 
I stick to Testors liquid plastic cement, in the triangle bottle for plastic to plastic joints.
 
You are generally better to dress the edges to be welded together so that the edges are flush...no gaps. Use a sanding block or a fine file. Then, to do a proper weld of styrene, products containing significant quantities of methyl-ethyl ketone (MEK) will do a good job. Just curb the impatience and leave the items clamped or buttressed so that their to-be-welded edges stay in good contact...and alignment...for about 12 hours.

-Crandell
 
various branded versions of MEK works best for me. no ghosting, goo, fingerprints, and an inherently better joint (welded).
 
Testors cement in the orange tubes and the version with the brush in the bottle handle 99% of my gluing needs. Cheap, strong, and easy to use. I only use superglue when I'm gluing dissimilar materials or I need something glued together 10 secnds.
 
The Testor Model Master Liquid Cement For Plastic Models (black triangle bottle with a metal tube tip) is perfect for most plastic to plastic applications. Where structural integrity is of the utmost importance (like large sections of a large building), then something like Walthers Goo (Contact Cement) may be called for. Superglue is best for gluing unlike materials together like metal to plastic, or wood to plastic. But I use Walthers Goo to add extra weight to freight cars, trailers and containers because of it's toughness, and the fact that it's hidden from view.
 
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Yes, what they said!

I have actually gotten away from GOO and use ALENE'S TACKY glue for attaching weights in cars and putting people on the layout. It takes 10-15 minutes to set, but is very flexible if something is bumped slightly.

I will "tack weld" structures together with solvent glue until dry, then come back with a bead of TACKY glue to reinforce the joint.

Just another way to skin a cat.;)

Mikey
 
another good adhesive for unlike materials (like gluing in weights) is latex caulk. It won't attack anything, is cheap and good for lots of things (like caulking the tub, sink, windows.....just don't let the wife know)
 
Holey Moley! I will be glad when my new glasses come in. I thought it said PLASTER. So sorry!

My favorite for plastic kits is PlastiWeld by Plastruc. It sets in about 5 seconds and you can continue building in about 20 seconds. It also will get up under parts by capillary action. Works very much like MEK, but doesn't stink so bad and sets a little slower. If it is a part that is under stress/tension and needs to dry real fast, regular CA.
 



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