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Its been awhile since i read up on wireing when i did mine, but i seem to remember something about not running the wire back on itself. I really dont remember, but unless you do the research, i would avoid doing that.

They dont come much easier to wire up than that. +polarity on the outside rail and -polarity on the inside rail, or vice versa.

You bet ya, visit this website for starters. http://www.ncedcc.com/ Look down at the bottom of the page for more resources for learning what can and cant be done. What you are looking for is a stationary decoder, they can be used to throw a switch using dcc commands. There are different types...

The only thing you have to be aware of about power routing double crossovers, is that all four points need to be set the same way to prevent shorts. I just wired all four of my tortoise machines to one switch. It is a shinohara double crossover by the way, and it works perfectly.

As long as your locos are power from both sets of trucks you shouldn't have stalling problems with insulfrog, it will allso be alot cheaper and easier to intall your track.

The powercab will cover what you want to do. It allso can monitor how many amps your trains are drawing. I have 2 Athearn genesis gp-15 with dcc and tsunami sound and they draw about a 1/2 amp combined. I cant remember the exact number, but you can probably run 5-6 engines depending on how...

try trainworldonline.com

Wow, i just checked the prices to see why you didnt buy one with dcc and sound allready installed. I can see why, i paid 150 bucks for a gennesis gp 15-1 with the tsunami about 6 months ago, now its 240 dollars.

go to youtube, type in ez command, then look for 3 parts of the bachman ez command video. There is a seperate dc unit that can be plugged in the command unit, not real sure how they made this work.

Why do you need to power the frogs? You running locos with only 1 wheel set to pick up power? Its hard to say without seeing the entire track, but if you have a polarity missmatch, then you need a autoreverser. Im pretty sure changing the polarity of the frog will not help. One thing i had...

I went with the powercab (NCE brand), since it was fairly cheap. I bought one of of ebay that had been sitting around along time, but was still new. I think i paid 115.00 for it. I had allso looked at the bachman unit but i remembered all the times that i had bought cheap and then had to buy...

Thanks for the input. I think i will leave it down on the plywood. Im just getting back to working on it after a break of 6 months.

Whats your opinion, should i leave this section flat on the board or put roadbed under it. Second pic is of a broken handrail, what type of glue is best to repair it? I have some of the faller glue to put the buildings together with, but i have my reservations about it working on this type of...

If you are powering the tortoise with the led wired in series , thats probably whats making it slow. How do you have them wired?

Looks like thats a electro magnet to ring the bell? Maybe the laquer on the winds has broken down over the years and that is whats causing the short.

If tracks 2 and 3 have the same polarity, ie the inside rail of both tracks is positive or negative. Then you only have to throw all four points of the turnout together and you will not have a problem, ie all points must be set divergent or thru at the same time.

Lowes had all the wire i needed. They have terminal stripes too, cheaper than radio shack.

Take your time, i scored mine for only 115.00. Just be patient and keep those eyes peeled for the deal when it comes around.

Carpeting the entire floor with padded carpet will net you the most sound reduction, imo.

I saw a post on here before where someone else had the same problem and there fix for it was the same as i did. I allso had a problem with a shinohara 3 way switch. I had to put insulators on the 3 output tracks and feed power only from the two rails leading into the switch to keep it from...