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So in my little collection of locos I have Atlas 6 axles, BLI 4 axles, and newly purchased BLI 6 axles. After getting some track laid I ran the Atlas and BLI 4 axle with no problems, but once I put the newly acquired BLI 6 axles on the track they were derailing at joints in turns. Went over...

So I have been laying track, running trains, all good. Ordered a couple more locos and decided to get into the Digitrax DCS 210+ cv programming before they get here. Placed one of my current locos on program track and attempted to change address from factory 3 to road number, nothing happens...

Need some help from the pros 😉 With my Walthers Bridge Track I span the entire length of my 3 combined bridges, Pratt Truss with a deck on both ends, but that includes the end piece that starts the guard track…. My question is do I cut bridge track just to span the Pratt Truss and ballast over...

Stumbled upon this, thought it was a project worth sharing…

Was looking online for a few odds and ends, one site was Temu. Prices were good, but too good? Anybody have any experience ordering from Temu?

Spent that last couple months prepping my basement for the build, and while the fumes from the Flex Seal paint might have made me a bit loopy I still want to attempt what will be for me a good challenge… Plan is around the walls double deck layout with helix. Cuz of space restriction min...

https://www.modelbuildings.org/industries/ Anyone have any experience with this type of modeling?

Would it be easier to speed match for consists sticking to one brand of loco using same decoder? Or once you get the hang of it does it really matter anymore? Have been researching the subject, some make it sound like spd match is nothing complicated, others go into extreme detail making it...

Want to pre wire my layout as I go for future use of block signals. Been on YouTube, kinda helpful, kinda not for me. I do not want to hook up to a computer later, just have the signals change color as needed as they would on a real line. Is there a “simple” way to have the electric ready for...

Currently using Bachman’s EZ Command Dynamis system. While it does make the locos move and make noise, it seems that’s about the extent of it. Without buying a $500 additional piece of equipment that is not even produced until it is justified to do so by enough names on a waiting list I am...

Am considering adding some Amtrack livery, but to save money looking at buying older passenger cars. Looks like I will encounter some issues, but nothing serious (ie adding resistors and such). Anyone have a similar transition in the past to let me know the do and don’t criteria for this...

Crude drawing, was in a hurry lol Will the wiring and plastic joiners as shown in the drawing work for an auto reverse unit? The diagrams I have seen all have the loop exiting and returning on the same turnout, but I don’t see why this won’t do the same thing… Not real sure this is how I want...

Didn’t think about it, but I work in a sea of foam that might be usable on layouts. I am eyeing foam that is 2 mm (5/64) for possible super elevation and as a yard base. If you guys want to check it out let me know, maybe I can send samples to let you experiment and see if you can find a use...

Bench work 95% complete, time to get some track going…. FINALLY!!!

Not sure who all will take the time to read this but…. Getting back in the hobby after a 20 year hiatus, any and all tips and advice welcome. Will search the forums and see what we got here… Nice to meet everyone here who shares my enthusiasm for model railroading!