Weathering Engines a Continuous thread.


Klankster said:
Well, that looks fantastic. Also impressive are the Belle Chasse Cement cars in the background of some of the shots. There's an art to weathering equipment!
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Thank you and welcome to the thread

The Cement hoppers are in the other thread about Weathering Freight cars a continous …

creative and original titles…
 
TLOC said:
A adventure in frustration!

I got home late last night after an op session and decided I was wide awake enough and could clear coat some models. 3 diesels and 10 various sized box cars. No problem, did that and half assed cleaned the air brush, took a quick shower and hit the bed about 12:30am.

This morning, hit the 10 box cars and the 2 NS9-40c’s I’ve been playing with. No problem, sort of cleaned the air brush and headed up stairs for breakfast. 1/2 assed and sort of ARE NOT the way I normally clean my air brushes. But hey, it worked. After lunch and it’s back to the bench. Did a clear coat and again sort of cleaned the air brush

Now it’s time while everything dries to work on 2 sets of 5 each well cars. Paints all mixed and I’m ready to go! But the air brush is not. Is it clogged! No biggie, clean the tip and now I’m getting air but no paint! Take the needle out and clean that even though it looked fine, I can back flush but nothing coming out the tip end! Take the needle out, remove the tip and replace with a new needle, tip and cover. Everything I normally do while tossing the used tip, cover and needle into the Isopropyl Alcohol bath. Fire up the brush and I have a spray but like 30 degree spray angle coming off the tip. Now I’m frustrated and walk away! Not happy and the Rice pudding dessert I tried was just ok. Head down stairs and surprise, the water I’m spraying is sputtering and still on an angle! Pulled the needle, it is clean and it is straight. Take the airbrush to my tool bench ready to strip it down and hey there are the directions!

Sputtering usually indicates per the instructions sheet that the tip cover is not tight and that doesn’t allow the tip to seat! Not tight, it’s finger tight. Grab the air brush wrench and barely 1/2 a turn and it’s tight. Back to the booth and spray the water and 30 to 60 seconds later I am mixing the paint again that 90 minutes ago I wanted to spray…

instruction sheets are helpful
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No air brush here, but when i shut my eyes I see you (re frustration).
Instruction sheets ARE useful indeed.
 
mara plutoni said:
What a difference a day makes! Great work.
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Those are different NS diesels from the current batch being shown. But, yes a different day does create changes in appearances at the workbench

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My sister, bless her, saw this Kato GP35 in some shop locally and decided that she would purchase this as an early birthday present for me, my sister has always liked to give me a challenge, not quite sure what I'm going to do with it though, she assures me it does work (hubby gave it some 12v power using fly leads and the wheels turn, her words not mine) thoughts anyone. ?

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Usually I would say weathering hides mistakes but, weathering was the mistake. Hopefully they used water based paint. I would try removing the paint off the fuel tank or on the front to see how easy or difficult it will be.
 
CambriaArea51 said:
Usually I would say weathering hides mistakes but, weathering was the mistake. Hopefully they used water based paint. I would try removing the paint off the fuel tank or on the front to see how easy or difficult it will be.
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That's an understatement, I've only ever seen one other "weathered"?????? like this, definitely overdone, I'm thinking strip back to the original if I can, (I'm assuming it's originally a Burlington livery), but if I can't strip it, I may just do a fantasy scheme.
 
thomasj49 said:
Yes sir and thanks for the invite. :)
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Glad you’re checking it out here! Lots of skilled guys here, lots of shared ideas. I read this section, but haven’t ventured into weathering a locomotive yet.

Check out the “Weathering Rolling. Stock…” thread. I’ve got some projects in there. A lot more posts in that thread - many of the same good folks involved. Many techniques cross over for both.

I would say keep the shiny side up and the greasy side down, but the point of a weathering is to make all the sides greasy (and dusty and grimy and rusty).
 
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