Running Bear's Coffee Shop LV


Flip said:
M-1 or Marlin lever action. If I could see it I hit it. Not good with handgun.
Click to expand...

Always been more of a 'Rifleman' too. HAD to fire expert in the service or I could never have shown my Father my face ever again! HE fired expert in The Corps and TAUGHT me to handle a firearm, Grampa did too in WW2 in the Army, so it was PRESSURE galore on qualifying day! Hit 19 in a row from the prone and the foxhole and CHOKED the last shot both times! (was counting them and got cocky, PULLED em both!!) Lucky for me 38 out of 40 was enough for The Badge! Found out to my delight afterwards that I'm a WIZARD with a shotgun! I've made some shots that shocked ME! A handgun, I never had much call to use one.


imagespistol.jpg LOL! If I wanna shoot somebody I DON'T want to 'get none ON me!'
 
Good morning ....

Sherrel ... Thanks for your compliment.

David ... The fence I am talking about looks like a wood panel fence in the photos, but actually it is metal and is dark rust color. Jim Hediger called it a wood fence in his column, and his creative wring described how he thought I may have made it. LOL It does not bother me though. Glad to have the photo published.

We have a busy day planned.... Hope to see all of you tonight.
 
Good morning all. The coffee is great. Need it this morning. Up past my bed time with Friday night bowling league.

Curt - Great photo. Glad you got the derailment problem fixed. Can get frustrating.

Eric - Looks like you are making some progress. What I do when making mountains is to use some screen material over the form like you have. I'll then soak some paper towels in hydrocal and lay them over the screen and let them set. You'll have a good bast to then apply hydrocal over the paper towels which will give it a lot of strength.

IMAG0645.jpg IMAG0655.jpgIMAG0657.jpg IMAG0223.jpg

Make sure the tracks under the mountain are well covered. I'll usually build up about an eight of an inch over the paper towels which will have a base to apply the rock castings. Put some hydrocal on the mountain, wet the back of the casting and lightly press the casting into the wet hydrocal. You can also form terrain by applying more or less hydrocal into different areas. Paint the terrain, not the rock castings an earth color (I use a tan color) and then apply ground cover and trees.

attachment.php


Sloppy, but effective.

113 - Very sorry to hear about your friend. Too young to leave.

NG - Looking good. I'll expect trains to be running soon. Yeah, right.

Phil - Must have missed something last night. 112 ??? Was trying to follow on TapTalk but was also busy bowling.

Sherrel - Great shot of the B&O and C&O. Like that one.
 
montanan said:
Good morning all. The coffee is great. Need it this morning. Up past my bed time with Friday night bowling league.

Curt - Great photo. Glad you got the derailment problem fixed. Can get frustrating.

Eric - Looks like you are making some progress. What I do when making mountains is to use some screen material over the form like you have. I'll then soak some paper towels in hydrocal and lay them over the screen and let them set. You'll have a good bast to then apply hydrocal over the paper towels which will give it a lot of strength.

View attachment 52764 View attachment 52765View attachment 52766 View attachment 52767

Make sure the tracks under the mountain are well covered. I'll usually build up about an eight of an inch over the paper towels which will have a base to apply the rock castings. Put some hydrocal on the mountain, wet the back of the casting and lightly press the casting into the wet hydrocal. You can also form terrain by applying more or less hydrocal into different areas. Paint the terrain, not the rock castings an earth color (I use a tan color) and then apply ground cover and trees.

attachment.php


Sloppy, but effective.

113 - Very sorry to hear about your friend. Too young to leave.

NG - Looking good. I'll expect trains to be running soon. Yeah, right.

Phil - Must have missed something last night. 112 ??? Was trying to follow on TapTalk but was also busy bowling.

Sherrel - Great shot of the B&O and C&O. Like that one.
Click to expand...

LOL! Was JUST telling 'she' not to let me bring any of the 'goodies' down till the table is DONE! Getting into a good rhythm with the construction. Cut, assemble, mount to wall, repeat! Shooting for the end of the month for a 'deadline' to be laying track by.
 
Chet- When not sure if car behind is an unmarked police car and they flash their lights,call 112 and supposed to get help . Specially if your a female alone at night.

Is that Hustler rubber band drive ?
 
Phil, can't answer that question. I left law enforcement in 1977. NCIC computers were just coming onto the scene (everything in DOS) Not in the car, but dispatch only, if you could find someong who knew how to run it.
 
BY GOD I GOT ME A MOUNTAIN SKELETON BUILT!!!!!
I JUST GOT IN THE ZONE AND HUNG WITH IT TILL THE END.
It "only" took about 6 hours today to finish it up. ;)

PA030031.jpgPA030030.jpgPA030029.jpg~
 

Attachments

  • PA030028.jpg
    PA030028.jpg
    220.4 KB · Views: 162
Figures about the time I head to the beer store and it starts to drizzle/rain again.
Ain't gonna stop me!!
E.
 
BigE said:
Figures about the time I head to the beer store and it starts to drizzle/rain again.
Ain't gonna stop me!!
E.
Click to expand...

The MISSION is everything! Looking good on the Mountain! Cold and windy up here, good day to take a nap and wait for my carpenter!
 
new guy said:
The MISSION is everything! Looking good on the Mountain! Cold and windy up here, good day to take a nap and wait for my carpenter!
Click to expand...

Awesome!! Some dude offered me a ride home and I didn't even have on a Navy hat.
Just some young kid getting off work at the Waffle House "figured I'd just do something nice" he said.
There is hope for the younger generation!!! It's refreshing to see that now and then.
E.
 
montanan said:
Eric - Looks like you are making some progress. What I do when making mountains is to use some screen material over the form like you have. I'll then soak some paper towels in hydrocal and lay them over the screen and let them set. You'll have a good bast to then apply hydrocal over the paper towels which will give it a lot of strength. Make sure the tracks under the mountain are well covered. I'll usually build up about an eight of an inch over the paper towels which will have a base to apply the rock castings.

Put some hydrocal on the mountain, wet the back of the casting and lightly press the casting into the wet hydrocal. You can also form terrain by applying more or less hydrocal into different areas. Paint the terrain, not the rock castings an earth color (I use a tan color) and then apply ground cover and trees.
Click to expand...

I saw a video (from Kalmbach) about doing this method and that guy just laid wetted sheets of plaster cloth directly on the ribbing as I have it. I got 2 rolls of that stuff from WS to use. It has occurred to me that unless I want to measure and cut each sheet that there will be drooping through the holes. You think I should lay some wetted paper towels or even newspaper on my frame before slapping the plaster cloth to it?

I have a 5lb bag of hydrocal + 2 3lb bags of sculpta-mold + 1/2 of a 4lb carton of POP so I'm not shy for materials.

Tips and any advice all welcome!!
E.
 
Ok, wassa deal? I hear all this about drop feeders every 3 feet and I SEE video's of people running 6 or more loco's on at least 30 feet of track with ONE power hookup! WASSA DEAL??? I gonna have to just chuck all the kind advice and find out for myself before I go drilling the heck outa my table? WHO runs HOW much on WHAT? out there?
 
ERIC For what it's worth, here is what I did. I made a cardboard shell like you did and supported it with a bunch of crumpled up news papers, and I mean a lot!. Then I got some towels that are dispensed in public washrooms, the kind that come out of a machine in small folded towels. They are white or brown colored, it doesn't matter which you use. I cut them in half so I could have a size that was easy to handle and soaked them in hydrocal and placed them in my mountain one sheet at a time, work fast because hydrocal sets up pretty fast. These towels can be obtained from any janitorial supply place and not terribly expensive. Once the shell has hardened, wet it with a water sprayer and apply a second coat of plaster towels. Once this is set up, your shell will be hard as a rock and you can apply your rock molds to that. Make sure you wet the area with water first. After everything is done, I removed all the newspapers from under the shell so they would not rot after a while.

Cover everything, this is a very messy operation!!

Mel
 
new guy said:
Ok, wassa deal? I hear all this about drop feeders every 3 feet and I SEE video's of people running 6 or more loco's on at least 30 feet of track with ONE power hookup! WASSA DEAL??? I gonna have to just chuck all the kind advice and find out for myself before I go drilling the heck outa my table? WHO runs HOW much on WHAT? out there?
Click to expand...

New guy....its a bit subjective not a hard and fast rule. You will also hear and see recomendations that all joints between track sections should be soldered, drop-feeders on every piece of track and so on.

So it ends up being your devision based on your layout. Considering the size of your layout I believe there has already been a discussion here about breaking your layout into 3-4 " blocks" to make short-circuit detection easier. My only advice, and its very basic at this point is....droppers between every turnout at the very least and don't use insulated-frog turnouts......just my opinion.
 
For feeders, I have three sets, spread around the layout. I have zero problems with power, and probably 80% of the joints are unsoldered. The only place I really solder the joints is when there is one in a curve, to keep the rails from shifting, and causing derailments. And y'all have seen my videos, some having ten locomotives trundling around the layout.
 
I agree...I don't think soldering every joint is required...and if a problem joint shows up it is pretty simple to retro-solder the affected joint.
 
THANKS again guys!

I'll 'push' the first 'zone' I guess, find out how much can go how far and scale it back a bit and that will be about the size of em. From what I'm seeing I'll PROBABLY be able to get away with just one feed 'per zone' on each track.

See what type of problems this set up and my particular track laying techniques are 'prone' to and play it by ear like the rest!

Just getting a wee bit antsy with all this ACTUALLY coming along!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.



Back
Top