I am using WS Realistic Water for the first time to model a lake and river. All went well with the pour, but as it is drying it is developing lots of cracks that come in from the edge towards the center. Base is pink foam carved to depth, sealed with plaster well, acrylic paint. These are not bubbles - they are cracks. Has anyone had this experience? WS suggests that their product does not crack, but suggests using denatured alcohol to soften cured product to fix defects. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Woodland Scenics Realistic Water cracking
- Thread starter upacreek
- Start date
Larry
Long Winded Old Fart
You can get MagicWater at WM in the Craft dept. It's used for flower arranging. I think it's about 8 bucks for a quart kit.
Cracked Water
Hi, Jack from Star Idaho. Skip the expensive simulated water products I use bar top finish which is nothing more than a Poly resin and catylist pour mixed 50:50. No matter what thickness I pour it always comes out great. Use water effects for waves, rapids, or water falls and you have a great looking scene. I buy it at Lowes or Home Depot. The cost is about $20 bucks and you get more product than from scenic water etc. etc. ect.
Jack Strong
Hi, Jack from Star Idaho. Skip the expensive simulated water products I use bar top finish which is nothing more than a Poly resin and catylist pour mixed 50:50. No matter what thickness I pour it always comes out great. Use water effects for waves, rapids, or water falls and you have a great looking scene. I buy it at Lowes or Home Depot. The cost is about $20 bucks and you get more product than from scenic water etc. etc. ect.
Jack Strong
Blast from the past, I'm new to the board (G'day all!) and found this post informative. Motley, you mentioned late last year that you tried WS Realistic Water and poured Magic Water over it without issues. Just wondering if this is still the case several months on, or have you noticed any defects from the WS developing underneath the Magic Water layer?
I tried this WS stuff yesterday on my painted foam (the foam has been modelled with many varying ripples to replicate the ocean) with a fairly thin coat but is frustrating as it dries with cracks all over the place. Would you gentlemen recommend I pour Magic Water directly over it or paint over the WS first?
With thanks,
Reagan
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RW&C
N Scale with Stone Tools
Pouring anything over a cracked surface won't look good unless it gets into the cracks (or you'll just have cracks under a clear layer). I'd paint it first.
I've never had WS water crack, but when poured a bit thick it got these funny blue dots... probably best to avoid in general. Too bad I've got a full bottle of the stuff still.
I've never had WS water crack, but when poured a bit thick it got these funny blue dots... probably best to avoid in general. Too bad I've got a full bottle of the stuff still.
hamltnblue
Active Member
The bar top stuff is a great idea. You also don't have to worry about scratching it when cleaning.
Pretty odd and lame - I started painting over and into the crevices of the cracks and for some odd reason it actually brings out the cracks even more ugh...so I've filled it with more Realistic Water once again so we're back to square one.
I've ordered some 'Encapso K' which as far as I can tell is similar to Magic Water so will give that a go when it arrives...Monday couldn't come soon enough!
hamltnblue - what's this bar top stuff you speak of?
I've ordered some 'Encapso K' which as far as I can tell is similar to Magic Water so will give that a go when it arrives...Monday couldn't come soon enough!
hamltnblue - what's this bar top stuff you speak of?
Hello Upacreek,
I would like to suggest acrylic gloss medium. Is is incredibly easy to use; it is thick, so it can easily be "sculpted" into waves, ripples, etc., and it dries to a rock hard, glossy finish. It is available at any art supply store under its generic name of acrylic gloss medium and also under the name, ModPodge Hi-Lustre. It is easy to work with, will yield nice results and can be cleaned up with soap and water and is non-toxic.
The only issue you face, is the removal of the defective Realistic Water; no matter what imitation water you use, (unless you deeply tint it), is going to reveal the cracked and defective RW underneath it. Furthermore, depending on what alternate form of artificial water you use; you may have to contend with incompatibility and chemical reaction issues; i.e., you may wind up with a soup that will never cure properly, if at all. Unfortunately, I think you're going to have to clean out the WS RW first.
All the best,
Sean C.
I would like to suggest acrylic gloss medium. Is is incredibly easy to use; it is thick, so it can easily be "sculpted" into waves, ripples, etc., and it dries to a rock hard, glossy finish. It is available at any art supply store under its generic name of acrylic gloss medium and also under the name, ModPodge Hi-Lustre. It is easy to work with, will yield nice results and can be cleaned up with soap and water and is non-toxic.
The only issue you face, is the removal of the defective Realistic Water; no matter what imitation water you use, (unless you deeply tint it), is going to reveal the cracked and defective RW underneath it. Furthermore, depending on what alternate form of artificial water you use; you may have to contend with incompatibility and chemical reaction issues; i.e., you may wind up with a soup that will never cure properly, if at all. Unfortunately, I think you're going to have to clean out the WS RW first.
All the best,
Sean C.
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Hey Sean,
Thanks for the suggestion mate. Yeah problem I'm facing right now is cleaning out the WS RW Although the layer is thin, it seems to be bonded with the acrylic paint on the foam so removing it will rip up a bit of it, which in usual 'pond design' circumstances is fine. However in my case the foam is sculpted to resemble waves which means removing the WS will rip these up. I'll need to post a photo sometime I think for you guys to see/understand.
In the meantime is there a 'safe way' or method to remove the WS?
Thanks again
Thanks for the suggestion mate. Yeah problem I'm facing right now is cleaning out the WS RW
Although the layer is thin, it seems to be bonded with the acrylic paint on the foam so removing it will rip up a bit of it, which in usual 'pond design' circumstances is fine. However in my case the foam is sculpted to resemble waves which means removing the WS will rip these up. I'll need to post a photo sometime I think for you guys to see/understand.In the meantime is there a 'safe way' or method to remove the WS?
Thanks again
Hello Reags,
Yes- that is a real head-scratcher. I've never had to deal with the problem myself; I've never even used WS RW- so I don't know how to best advise you. On my last layout, I used poly resin and I'm using the acrylic gloss medium on my current layout.
When my layout was in the planning stage a couple of years ago, I had talked with someone at WS and when she told me that RW never completely cures but stays gelatinous- I got spooked away from the product and looked elsewhere. I knew I didn't want to mess around with that poly resin again!
My best advice to you and "upacreek" would be to contact WS and ask their advice on how to fix it or remove it. I feel bad for you guys- I wish I could be of more help.
Here is Woodland Scenics' phone number: (573) 346-5555; they are located in Missouri, which puts them in the Central time zone.
All the best,
Sean C.
Yes- that is a real head-scratcher. I've never had to deal with the problem myself; I've never even used WS RW- so I don't know how to best advise you. On my last layout, I used poly resin and I'm using the acrylic gloss medium on my current layout.
When my layout was in the planning stage a couple of years ago, I had talked with someone at WS and when she told me that RW never completely cures but stays gelatinous- I got spooked away from the product and looked elsewhere. I knew I didn't want to mess around with that poly resin again!
My best advice to you and "upacreek" would be to contact WS and ask their advice on how to fix it or remove it. I feel bad for you guys- I wish I could be of more help.
Here is Woodland Scenics' phone number: (573) 346-5555; they are located in Missouri, which puts them in the Central time zone.
All the best,
Sean C.
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Charles Smiley
cspmovies
Yeah! Try banging a beer stein on a WS surface. It won't hold up as well. Next time I'll use bar top finish for durability.
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