Wooden frame tank car scratch build


Those are quite similar to the narrow gauge flat car mounted ones I printed .he WP & Y R ones were made with a series of timbers with the curve cut out to nest them solidly on the frame with the tie down bands. The point of scratch building is generally the pleasure of construction. Much like one does not go sport hunting or fishing to save on costs.

Enjoy your project! Tom
 
Vince-RA,
You've done a fine job on those tank cars. I have no idea what wheel-sets you are using but don't forget metal wheels and axles will add ¼ oz for 4 wheels and axles. I tuned up a flatcar, I bought at the Hamburg train show, and it was a ¼ oz light. After adding the Intermountain wheels the weight was dead on. Glenn
 
747flier said:
Those are quite similar to the narrow gauge flat car mounted ones I printed .he WP & Y R ones were made with a series of timbers with the curve cut out to nest them solidly on the frame with the tie down bands. The point of scratch building is generally the pleasure of construction. Much like one does not go sport hunting or fishing to save on costs.

Enjoy your project! Tom
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Completely agreed - I've never even run most of the cars I've built :D But still enjoying the construction aspect immensely. The painting, not so much, but I'm working on that.
 
glenng6 said:
Vince-RA,
You've done a fine job on those tank cars. I have no idea what wheel-sets you are using but don't forget metal wheels and axles will add ¼ oz for 4 wheels and axles. I tuned up a flatcar, I bought at the Hamburg train show, and it was a ¼ oz light. After adding the Intermountain wheels the weight was dead on. Glenn
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I'm using Kadee metal arch bar trucks (#501). Even with the extra weight from the trucks I don't think I quite hit NMRA standards, but they're a lot closer than other wooden scratch builds I've done (flat cars especially).
 
I've got the weight of flat cars on the upswing by leaving a section in the middle to glue a piece of steel flat bar stock. A compromise of course since the car won't look proper upside-down. Kadee has their new HGC trucks made from some sort of modified plastic with a high specific gravity.

Keep having fun with these! Tom
 
Not much choice with flat cars (and hopefully they don't find themselves upside down too often!). I've put some sinkers, smashed into rough cubes, in between the frame timbers before. Placed near the trucks/couplers they pretty well disappear. Still, hard to get much weight in them overall, 2-3 oz is a LOT of weight at HO scale, even in pure lead. Another tactic I've been trying lately is to make granite blocks for loads and weight those instead. Doesn't help with empty cars of course but gives a nice look and a good amount of weight to a loaded car.
 
I got the narrow gauge 30' flat cars up to about 2.2 oz less couplers. I also made a large collection of military vehicles which make a period correct flatcar load. Some such as a Duce n'half with covered back can hold considerable weight. Fine lead shot can also be poured into voids underneath or other voids created.
 
I should have mentioned that the flatcar, I added the metal wheels too, came with two loads that added most of the weight needed. They are fixed in place, so no worries about weight own the road. Glenn
 
Often the tank retaining straps were bar stock over the top with round rod welded on for the lower straight part and threaded on the ends for large nuts. I could have done this on my printed cars but didn't. Yes, truss rods are a PITA and I am still adding them to some of my various printed cars. Sorry to hear that the majority of domes were defective. The line of home made cars will be very satisfying to see coupled into a line!
 
Got a half pound of 26 gauge soft brass wire and now have finished off the wiring and railings. Need to fix up one or two truss rods i damaged in the process then (finally!) ready for painting and addition of trucks and couplers. Looking ahead to getting some custom decals printed as well, but that’s a bit further off.
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Vince-RA said:
Got a half pound of 26 gauge soft brass wire and now have finished off the wiring and railings. Need to fix up one or two truss rods i damaged in the process then (finally!) ready for painting and addition of trucks and couplers. Looking ahead to getting some custom decals printed as well, but that’s a bit further off.
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Looking awesome!
 
Very nice Vince, great to see them running. The only unusual feature I see is the lifelines strung on the stake pockets as opposed to a handrail on the side of the tank. Hadn't seen this before, but lots of things I haven't seen! learn something every day. Glad your project has worked out and I expect it gave a lot of satisfaction!

Best regards! Tom
 
Yeah, that style of railing was a bit new to me as well, but admittedly I haven't seen too many late 1800s tank cars to begin with. The design for this one was ripped off wholesale from one at Labelle models: https://www.labellemodels.com/texas-midland-tank-p-61.html

(Note to interested parties: just buy their kit instead of scratch building, it will be way easier and almost certainly cheaper too 😅 )

They aren't really conventional stake pockets, just stakes that are strapped to the car sides. I assume the prototype would have had some bolts thrown in for good measure too.
 
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