which Digitrax decoder should I get, and how do I get it in


I took a look at the dash 8, I'm not going to get a DH123P in, in fact, I'm not going to get any decoder in, it's made a bit strangely and there is really no room for anything in it.
it does run nicely though...
 
hm, will a digitrax DH123D fit in it?
the MC2 is, if I read the dimensions right, smaller then it.

although I think the main problem is the hight and it if I get the dimensions right then the digitrax DH123D is just a bit lower.
 
Let me muddy the water, or perhaps, clear things up a bit. The instructions from TCS will work, but some of the steps are unneccessary. Wiring the trucks can be eliminated by drilling and tapping 2 screw holes in the frame.( Blue arrows) Use the frame as a buss to conduct current up. I've done this on several Bachmann engines without a problem. F-units, Dash 8's and this example, a baby Trainmaster. Also , because Bachmann bodies fit so snugly, take a Dremel or hacksaw blade and cut a groove in the side of the frame as a "wire run" and cover it with tape. This stops a future short circuit.
BabyTM4.jpg

The decoder here is an NCE D13SR, even when sitting on 2 sided tape it is still not any taller than the engineers head!
If you can get one, grab the June 2009 issue of Railroad Model Craftsman. I've got a lot more pictures and step by step stuff in there. (I'd post it on my web page, but RMC might get a little huffy about that):rolleyes:
 
I prefer not to modify the frame though, and I probably won't be doing it myself.
however, I do need to know if a DH123D will fit, as I may not place it but I do need to buy it, and I do want to make sure to get the decoder I need to have....
 
foxofinfinety said:
I prefer not to modify the frame though, and I probably won't be doing it myself.
however, I do need to know if a DH123D will fit, as I may not place it but I do need to buy it, and I do want to make sure to get the decoder I need to have....
Click to expand...

Minor modifications to be sure, but the best part is if you ever want to back to DC, all you have to do is remove the balck and red wires from under the screws, and attach the orange and gray in their place, pull off the decoder and put the shell back on.

Its better than pinching the wires between the shell and the frame,, thats a blown decoder for sure!!

The DH123d may fit, but its thicker than the NCE, almost twice as thick!:eek:
Here are the specs on both,
http://www.digitrax.com/prd_mobdec_dh123d.php
http://www.ncedcc.com/pdf/d13sr.pdf
 
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ok, but the store I can get them only has digitrax, and one MRC.

but I do want to be sure if it fits so I'll take a look how much space there actually is.
 
Clearance check, I would use silly putty or modeling clay wrapped in plastic wrap. Place it on the top of the frame and install the body then remove the body and the putty will be squished to the same distance as the clearance.

I used to use this for checking valve clearance in engines, works great, we didn't need the plastic wrap as it was easy to clean out.

Remember to have a little heat clearance, you do not want the decoder smashed tight to the plastic as some of them get quite warm.

Hope this helps.

Greg
 
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